Topic: wire harness HELL!

[Skinny_Pedal]

quick review. my 85 truck was a turbo toyota. put an efi motor and computer in it. the turbo harness that was still in the truck; runs along both fenderwells and in the dash didnt have an oxygen sensor  . so i put a 4runner harness in. i still had some plugs left over now the fawker wont start.  . i dont know what the extra plugs are for. im positive i have everything hooked up. i have lights(not dash lights)...but nothing else. dont get a sound when i turn my key to on.  . im so lost here and have realistically a week to get this truck running for school. im so lost and going in circles. the truck in theory should start or make an attempt. but im getting nothing   

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

so the pics explain them sleves by there title. nm the top pic are the wires under the steering column and the lower is under the fusebox

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

first pic is the wire by the ebrake and the other pic are the plugs above the fusebox

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

above the ecu

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

the next two pics are another puzzle to me. you can see i started to saughter(sp?) wires together to make this plug match up. on the 4runner harness it has to plugs with 5 wires. then in the next pic you can see where they hook up by the ecu into a smaller 10 wire hookup. i cut the plug of my original turbo harness and started splicing. well i have to elimate 1 wire. there are two that dont match up. a white and brown wire. this is another puzzle to me. this is for i believe the sending unit for the tank and positive its for the rear tailights.


so theres my two big problems. hopefully someone can steer me in the right direction

[bluetoy84]

I swapped an EFI harness from an '89 4-runner in my old '84. I don't recall having that many un-used plugs. I know there was some , but I don't remember that many.

Anyways , did your '85 have a clutch start cancel button ? If not you'll have to find the plug for the CSC button and wire the 2 wires together , otherwise it will not even turn the starter over. This could be your problem.

On mine there was a bunch of wires running under the driver seat to all the switches in the console for the rear window and etc. I just cut that part out of the harness.

As for the plug on the passenger side that you had to solder together , I used the rear section of the harness (the one for the tail lights and fuel pump) from a '92 truck. It plugged up fine. The only reason I did that was because on the runner that part of the harness ran through the inside panel instead of down the frame on a truck. It was gonna be a PITA to remove.

Everything hooked up and worked great on my '84 so it should work on your '85. Also double check all of your ground wires to make sure they are hooked up.

Hope this helps    Good luck.

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

i have a clutch start button. could it be that my ecu isnt bolted up to the body   i can only recall to grounds. one behind the dash, to the left of the instrament cluster, and then the one by the fuse box

[BigMike]

Are you sure your Turbo harness did not have an o2 sensor? That's not right, someone must have cut it or something....

The plug in "under the fuse box.jpg" goes to a carb. smog emissions computer (was this truck previously a carb truck?) and the wires that go under the p. side carpet is for your brake lights, back up lights, tail light ground, fuel sender, fuel low light (if SR5), and the FUEL PUMP with ground. Of course you need the Fuel pump to have power!

So first off, what are the symptoms? Does it even crank? You can check the fuel pump by turning the key into the "ON" position, cram something into the air flow meter, like a long screwdriver or something (just to open the trap door slightly), and at this point the fuel pump should be buzzing. Put you ear on the gas tank and see if you can hear an electric motor working.

When you are having wiring problems like this, the #1 FIRST THING TO DO! is to check every and all grounds. And I am not kidding, You'd be surprised, one simple wire could prevent it from even cranking.
The ONLY ground wires on your entire rig will be (most commonly) WHITE with a BLACK stripe and (less commonly) a SOLID BROWN wire.

When ever you see a WHITE/Black wire or a BROWN wire, it MUST be grounded. I use a ohm meter with a buzzer (denotes continuity) and I connect one wire to a good known ground source, and the other wire I just start probing ALL of the W/B and Brown wires I can find. EACH and EVERY ONE MUST have a ground.

Check that and hit me back-
BigMike

[BigMike]

i have a clutch start button. could it be that my ecu isnt bolted up to the body i can only recall to grounds. one behind the dash, to the left of the instrament cluster, and then the one by the fuse box

No, the ECU does not need to be grounded (bolted) in order for it to run.
There are many grounds that you need to check.

Here are the important ones:
1) Ground for the OCR (Opening Circuit Relay). The OCR is located above the ECU near the defroster vents towards the back of the dash, up and under it. The OCR is what powers the Fuel Pump. So if you dont have any voltage on the large BLUE wire that's on your p. side carpet harness when the key is "ON" and the air box is opened, then suspect a bad ground at the OCR.
2) Ground for the EFI Relay in the fuse box in the engine bay.
3) Ground for the Clutch Relay in the interior fuse box. (if 5spd & SR5)
4) Ground for the Starter Relay in the fuse box in the engine bay.

A couple more things, Make sure that wires coming out on the male side of the ignition cylinder plug are:
Blue-Red: +12v when Key is "ACC"
Black-Red & Black-Orange: +12v when Key is "ON"
Black-White: +12v when key is "START"

If you are having cranking trouble, double check that the Starter relay is working by disconnecting the starter signal wire, and have someone turn the key to the "START" position multiple times while you touch the Starter relay. You should both feel and hear the relay "click". Then, take your multimeter and make sure there is continuity from the Black-White wire at the Ignition plug and the Black-White Starter Signal wire down at the Starter itself.

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

ok BigMike you gave me some options thats for sure. like i said when i go to turn my key i literely have nothing....i dont get any type of noise when turning the truck to the on position.

with the set of wires the go under the passenger seat. i could really use some help. the 4runner harness came with two plugs with 5 wires to each plug. the the truck originally came with a 9 wire plug. so we took the female plug off off the original turbo harness and started to splice wires together because a majority of them matched up. what i have left is a white with red stripes, and a brown with black stripes i believe. one of these wires cannot be used. im beginning to think by not having this set of wires hooked up this could be my problem.


wiring does scare me and im not very good at it at all. that is the honest truth. im feel like a newb right now because i am. so please bare with me and go slowly if ya catch my drift. 


thanks again BigMike im gonna print off what you said and try to get some help out my way and i should be able to get this pig running. this harness should work though right?

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

BigMike you talked about the OCR i know for a fact i hooked it up. if not working i have 2 spares. i found this fuse blown

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

then these are the wires i have left over. the pictures label them. so right now i believe these are my two big problems. figuring out what wire not to use and getting a replecement fuse. then go from there. what do you think? even if i have those extra plugs getting just the basics down would make the truck run right?

[BigMike]

I'm wondering if that brown wire in the first pic is the ground for the fuel pump? I am 90% sure that the fuel pump uses a W-B grounding wire, but none the less, I would ground that brown wire just to be sure. As for the white wire, straight White is usually a "constant, always On" power source, but it can also be a signal/sensor wire, so I would trace it using a multimeter or a wiring book to see where it leads.

In the second picture, if that plug is from up near the inst. cluster, then the Green-Black wire is for either your Left Turn signal, or your Right Turn Signal.

You mentioned something about a White-Red wire somewhere? White-Red is either a Constant Always On power, or if its branched from the ecu and the engine harness, then it's an Ignition On power.

Most of the time you can get away with hooking up any and all White-Red wires directly to a constant power source, but the draw back is that if this is the power to the computer, or some relay, then those items will be powered up all the time, which isnt necessarily bad, but it will drain your battery if you dont drive the truck, for say like a month

Gavin, check your PM

[BigMike]

Oh, and if you dont have time to get a new fuse right now, then pop the cover off the top, unplug your battery, and use a soldering iron and get the wires in that fuse hot and just melt some soder all over it. This will connect it, but it will also make it like a 100Amp fuse

So that's why I want you to remove your battery cable first. Then, once you've sodered it back together, lightly & quickly tap the battery cable you just disconnected against the battery terminal and if you dont have a massive spark, then thats good, you dont have a short, and you can reconnect the battery. I would still recommend getting the fuse replaced with a proper one, but at least for right now you can see if that was the whole problem, and then you would be excited and more willing to get that fuse replaced

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

the wire in the second pic is the male side of where the brown and green wire are. thats kinda my problem. i have a green wire left and then that brown and white wire.  this is how my OCR is mounted

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

then on each side of the truck i have these wires just dangling there

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

Oh, and if you dont have time to get a new fuse right now, then pop the cover off the top, unplug your battery, and use a soldering iron and get the wires in that fuse hot and just melt some soder all over it. This will connect it, but it will also make it like a 100Amp fuse

So that's why I want you to remove your battery cable first. Then, once you've sodered it back together, lightly & quickly tap the battery cable you just disconnected against the battery terminal and if you dont have a massive spark, then thats good, you dont have a short, and you can reconnect the battery. I would still recommend getting the fuse replaced with a proper one, but at least for right now you can see if that was the whole problem, and then you would be excited and more willing to get that fuse replaced

is this a toyota only fuse? because im going to have my cousin drop it off here on his way home if it is. he works a mile from the dealer

[BigMike]

Those are just drivers side speaker wires, you can ignore or cut those off if youve already install a aftermarket radio.

the wire in the second pic is the male side of where the brown and green wire are.

OK, then that G-B wire is just the wire that's going to your rear blinkers, either the left side or right side, I dont remember. Ground that Brown wire for now. And as for that White wire, I would just leave it disconnected for now until you get the truck running. Then it might be eaiser to check what circuit its for. Guarenteed, that White wire that's running on the p. side carpet loom has NOTHING to do with your engine not running.

I've gotta go, good luck, and give me a call later this evening.

Cya
BigMike

[BigMike]

is this a toyota only fuse? because im going to have my cousin drop it off here on his way home if it is. he works a mile from the dealer

I am not sure, maybe some mong-das, or sorry, Honda's or some other import uses that exact fuse, but I know you can get generic fuses like that from any auto parts store that will work. But genuine Toy parts are always the tits

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

Those are just drivers side speaker wires, you can ignore or cut those off if youve already install a aftermarket radio.

OK, then that G-B wire is just the wire that's going to your rear blinkers, either the left side or right side, I dont remember. Ground that Brown wire for now. And as for that White wire, I would just leave it disconnected for now until you get the truck running. Then it might be eaiser to check what circuit its for. Guarenteed, that White wire that's running on the p. side carpet loom has NOTHING to do with your engine not running.

 

mike i goofed. the male side has the green wire only. the female side(coming from the ecu) has the white and brown wires. so hook up the green and brown to eachother? and leave the white dangling?

[Skinny_Pedal [OP]]

so i put a new fuse in there. went to hook up the battery cables and the positve was sparking bad. when new fuse. i took it off it popped that new fuse . good thing i bought to . so the truck still did nothing, but the fuse popping must mean something right?