1985 stock mirrors (body work help)

Started by blackdiamond, September 08, 2005, 09:17:16 PM

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blackdiamond

Can anyone provide some measurements and pictures that show where the stock mirrors should be mounted?  My truck has aftermarket crap that needs to be replaced, the passenger side has been broken for a couple of years and the drivers side has rusted to the point of not adjusting and rattles.  I have OEM style mirrors and want to mount them as close to stock as possible, the holes have been covered.

Thanks  :thumbs:
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

MiniSimp


blackdiamond

1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

Uncle Jesse

You'd more than likely have to drill holes for the passenger side anyway, as some trucks didn't have that mirror from the factory.  As for the driver's side, you could always pull the door panel and find the two captured nuts from the inside, then drill a pilot hole back through.  Then copy that location to the passenger side.

Toyminator

If it doesn't have the vent windows, the mirrors mount further forward.

With vent:



Without:


BigMike

Hey MiniS, That's a funny picture of you holding the door! hahaha


I am thinking about running without any doors, so I'll have to mount at least a drivers side mirror (of course I've already got a rear view) for the road, so I might get one from a 2nd gen pickup like these....
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MiniSimp

Quote from: BigMike on September 12, 2005, 11:16:58 AM
I am thinking about running without any doors
If you're running with out doors forget doing the little sluice. The monster rock in the center will be sitting in your lap! :laugh:
Unless you can take a line like Eric did, and just drive right over it.

BigMike

I am gonna hold off on the little sluice until I get some larger tires. 33s aint gonna cut it (my 35" mtrs are 33.25" :thud: )
Check out our new Rock Crawling Videos!
2016 56-speed 580:1 Tacoma Rock Crawler   
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
1987 6-speed Supercharged 4A-GZE MR2
Instagram: @SlowestTacoma
Things are only impossible until they are not.
"The worst of both worlds, the best of neither." -abnormaltoy
"An informed question. But difficult to answer. I am what you see." -Nanaki

blackdiamond

Mirrors should arrive tomorrow.  I took off the passenger side tonight and it looks like three of the factory holes have survived, but the 4th is toast.  hopefully the drivers side is in similar condition.  I can put a nut on the backside of the one with a washer if necessary, I pulled the inner door panel for access.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

Uncle Jesse

Stock mirrors should only need two bolts.  Horizontal, maybe 2.5-3" apart

blackdiamond

The stock style mirrors do only require 2 bolts, unfortunatly the monkeys that previously owned my truck were kings of half-mule work.  Instead of just replacing the stock mirrors they swapped them to an aftermarket cheepo and mounted them using about four or five different fasteners.  I know get to do some poor mans body work to cover all of the holes in the lower set, I was able to use or cover all of the upper ones with the new mirrors.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

What is the easiest way to plug drilled holes in the body so that I can paint them and not get water in the doors?  I am not looking for body shop quality...well...maybe Earl Schibe quality.  I just want to plug them up and go, but body work isn't something that I have any idea what needs to be done.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

Uncle Jesse

When I replaced my g-hetto mirrors on my 84 with factory ones, I had I think two holes left over lower on the door.  I filled them with that Quik Steel epoxy putty stuff, ground it down, did a little sanding then got some dupli-color and painted it.  Just make sure you do a good job, as my plugs eventually lossened up enough to notice, although they never fell out.  This is probably the most ghetto but cheap way

MiniSimp

Why not just drill new holes right next to them?