Author Topic: 22r engine sputters intermidantly under a load (Read 12772 times)

shad · « **on:** Jun 27, 2005, 05:40:48 PM »

I been having a problem with my truck lately it was running great I rebuilt the top end of the motor like less than 1000 miles ago. I got rid of the weber 32/36 and went to the stock carb. It was running fine but now my truck is starting to make a put, put noise at idle like it's missng and when I accellerate hard 3rd to 4rd gear it starts to sputter then it sometimes stalls.
I start it up and as long as I am light on the gas it doesn't do it. When I get on it it starts doing the same thing again.
It ran fine on the trail no issues power seemed fine.

I checked the obvious things wires etc nothing seems wrong. Could it be vaccum leak or possibly a bad distributor?

I need some thoughts on this.

Duffil · « **Reply #1 on:** Jun 27, 2005, 06:52:18 PM »

did you rebuild the carb, or has it been sitting? also, check your fuel filter.

shad · « **Reply #2 on:** Jun 27, 2005, 07:36:36 PM »

Quote from: Duffil on Jun 27, 2005, 06:52:18 PM

did you rebuild the carb, or has it been sitting? also, check your fuel filter.

Carb is from a low milage truck 70,000 miles. I just replaced the fuel filter 4 days ago it had some bad gas in it.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #3 on:** Jun 27, 2005, 08:03:09 PM »

it will be eather spark or fuel. I take it you put new plugs in the rebuilt head, if you used champinis chang'um. 1000 miles is all they are good for. mite look for any thing hitting in the dist. rotor to cap, pick-up to relucktor. but it does sound a little more like fuel to me. check flow , run the carb. line into a bottle and see how fast it pumps gas. if you've never done this before BE CARFUL!!!! and it has to pump a lot more than you mite think. for the frist timers on this if you think OMG! this thing is pumping way to much, it's about right.
again, BE CARFUL!! fire can runin your day fast! naxt would be carb, don't care how low the miles were. does it run better when cold? I mean if you start it and as soon as you get oil presser put it in gear and drive off hard? better or same? my brain haerts

just some things to think about.

your foolish helper.

shad · « **Reply #4 on:** Jun 28, 2005, 04:50:35 AM »

I think I used NGK plugs in it. I never use champions plugs.

It drives fine offroad it's just on the highway when I am pulling up a hill or something shifting between 3rd and 4th it does this weird crap.
Do you think I should throw a timing light on it and see where it's at? I am starting to think it maybe a bad vaccum advance diaphram on the distributor.
Either that I have a hair line head crack between cylinders.

I might just do a compression check to see where the motor is at as well.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #5 on:** Jun 28, 2005, 06:13:33 AM »

the vac. advance is not used under load.

shad · « **Reply #6 on:** Jun 28, 2005, 06:58:10 AM »

Well I checked a few things out this morning I warmed the truck up and pulled the plugs all look normal the gap is around .032 which is normal stock is .031.
I then did a compression test on the motor here's the numbers #1 170 PSI #2 170 PSI #3 175 #4 170 PSI. All excellant compression numbers so no real uneven compression.

I inspected the carb found a bolt was missing throm the base plate. I put another bolt and nut back on. I also pulled the distributor cap.
I found that the cap points had some notches carved in them from the rotor like the cap had been crooked.

Possibily these 2 things maybe causing this.
I will change the cap this afternoon and take a test drive to see if the bolt mising from the base plate and the faulty distributor cap were the culprits.

shad · « **Reply #7 on:** Jun 28, 2005, 08:21:46 AM »

I changed some vaccum lines and installed a few vaccum caps instead of vacumm hoses with a screw in the end.
I replaced the cap and now the miss at idle is now gone.
I have yet to test drive it I will see how it does on the highway but hopefully this takes care of it.

shad · « **Reply #8 on:** Jun 28, 2005, 11:31:14 AM »

Nope it's still sputtering in 4th gear.
Anyone else got any ideas?

brainlessfool · « **Reply #9 on:** Jun 28, 2005, 03:18:09 PM »

did you check your fuel flow?

how do you know your wires are good?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #10 on:** Jun 28, 2005, 05:40:12 PM »

put the weber back on and see how it does, im guessing your running lean at full throttle

mine did this with the stock carb

also your timing could be off a tad

shad · « **Reply #11 on:** Jun 28, 2005, 06:09:28 PM »

Oh I know the timing is off. I plan on timing it tomorrow. I may have to run out and buy a fuel pressure regulator as well.

kyle_22r · « **Reply #12 on:** Jun 29, 2005, 08:48:32 PM »

sounds like your fuel pump may be going south. mine did it intermittently for about a year(maybe once or twice every couple months) but when i put in the 22R that sucks more gas, it started to get unbearable and i replaced the fuel pump, no problems since. then again, i have a factory electric in-tank pump(a '79 thing)

brainlessfool · « **Reply #13 on:** Jun 29, 2005, 09:18:12 PM »

Quote from: brainlessfool on Jun 28, 2005, 03:18:09 PM

did you check your fuel flow?

You should lisen to this guy!

Duffil · « **Reply #14 on:** Jun 29, 2005, 09:22:16 PM »

Quote from: brainlessfool on Jun 29, 2005, 09:18:12 PM

You should lisen to this guy!

thats the only thing he hasn't done that we told him to do!
wow...BF might actually be right!

brainlessfool · « **Reply #15 on:** Jun 29, 2005, 09:59:45 PM »

Quote from: Duffil on Jun 29, 2005, 09:22:16 PM

wow...BF might actually be right!

shad · « **Reply #16 on:** Jun 30, 2005, 05:52:06 PM »

The fuel pump is fairly new I changed it out in march.
I replaced the carb with a spare I had it is not doing the sputtering thing anymore.
My buddy though it maybe the secondary jet or primary jets having problems in the carb.
It was the carb that was the whole issue.
Thanks for everyones input on this.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #17 on:** Jun 30, 2005, 06:02:22 PM »

Could it have been the AAP diaphram. I have seen them rupture and cause problems?

kneedownnate · « **Reply #18 on:** Jul 05, 2005, 06:14:13 PM »

If you really suspect it's the stock carb, clean out all the gas, wrap it up real nice, put it in a box and ship it to BFE! Once those carbs decide to take a dump it's virtually pointless to try and fix em, they just become good rc boat anchors.

shad · « **Reply #19 on:** Jul 06, 2005, 06:57:23 AM »

Oh ya and my mechanical fuel pump did go south this week as well.
SO much for those cheapy reman units. They did exhange it for free.
I also did change out my fuel filter again it was full of water yet again.
So far I have gone through 3 tanks of gas and there is still water in it.
I may add some more dry gas to the tank.
This time I will be running it until almost empty and draining the tank completely.
I checked my gas cap it doesn't smell of gas when you are near it so I don't think the seal is leaking.
The gas filler hoses are all tight the ring at the top of the tank isn't leaking.

I still think it's gas stations cutting thier gas with water to be cheap because I didn't have this problem before I started using my truck alot and going to different gas stations for refills. I do know of one place my truck was running fine until I stopped for gas there then it started acting up so I will avoid that place for now on.

drew · « **Reply #20 on:** Jul 10, 2005, 08:35:15 AM »

i had the same problem swaped out the carb with a spare, problem fixed

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #21 on:** Jul 10, 2005, 09:05:52 AM »

Quote from: kneedownnate on Jul 05, 2005, 06:14:13 PM

If you really suspect it's the stock carb, clean out all the gas, wrap it up real nice, put it in a box and ship it to BFE! Once those carbs decide to take a dump it's virtually pointless to try and fix em, they just become good rc boat anchors.

Now this is horribly untrue...it is usually the diaphrams that get cracked or dried out...with some patience the carb can be cleaned and rebuilt in a couple hours, you can even do it on some plastic in your living room while watching the game...then they are perfect for another 75K - 100K miles...

I've found that the gallon style can of parts cleaner is the perfect size for dipping the dissassembled carb into...comes out like new!

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