Topic: 87 22r popped and quit. No spark.

[woodyth]

Morning.

After a week of trying everything I know I turn to the gurus for help. Was driving along and heard a "pop" and lost engine power. Lights , radio, all still work.  No spark at plug wires, or coil. Replaced coil and ignition control module, still no spark. I keep reading about an "ignitor " but can't seem to find it's location? Also is there a replaceable part inside the distributor besides cap? Anything else I should be checking?

 15 years Ive driven this truck with next to no issues with proper maintenance , so I guess this mystery is making up for them lol
Thanks for the help guys!
Woody

[toyodaaddict]

There is a pickup coil in the distributor. I had one go bad. It didnt happen instantly though. Did you check all fuses.

[woodyth [OP]]

There is a pickup coil in the distributor. I had one go bad. It didnt happen instantly though. Did you check all fuses.

My thoughts tomorrow is to just replace all of them under the driver and under the hood. We will see what tomorrow brings. Will report back.

[Gnarly4X]

My thoughts tomorrow is to just replace all of them under the driver and under the hood. We will see what tomorrow brings. Will report back.

Hey woodyth....

There are only 5 basic "parts" to making spark... ignition coil, ignitor, distributor, spark plugs, spark plug wires.

All of those parts can be tested.

Replacing all the parts can be a very expensive option and may not uncover the actual cause of the ignition failure.

If you cannot locate the ignitor and don't know that there is a replaceable rotor in the distributor, you might want to consider getting a Toyota mechanic to check out the issue.

Gnarls.

[woodyth [OP]]

Thanks for the response.

I'd love to ask a Toyota mechanic, but ones here are "plug ins." Minnesota doesn't have a plethora of old timers, so I learn as much as I can on here. These trucks just don't exist here. Salt eats most alive.

I misspoke when asking about the cap and rotor. I meant to say , is there anything replaceable besides the rotor. I'm not a complete dweeb. I promise lol 😂 

[Gnarly4X]

Would the Toyota factory manual test procedures be any help to you?

Gnarls.

[sirdeuce]

Sorry I didn't see this before.

A few things I've seen go wrong with the ignition can be diagnosed by a couple of small tests.

I'm guessing the engine turns over.

EFI or carby?

If it's EFI and the "pop" sounded like it came from the cab a capacitor in the ECU may have popped. Even a small cap can announce like a shotgun. On a carby engine I'm not too sure if the ignition goes through the emissions computer. Pretty sure it doesn't. If a cap did pop you most likely would recognize an acrid odor.

Could you give a better description of the "pop"? Intake? Exhaust? Something else?

Have you looked under the valve cover to see if the timing chain is broken, or maybe severely jumped time?

Is the distribritor drive gear intact? Is the pin holding the gear on the shaft intact? In the proper position? Can you turn the distributor with the rotor? Is the rotor shaft able to be pulled and pushed?

Then, there is the ever present gremlin (rat) in the wiring harness.

Hope ya get it figgered out quickly.

[woodyth [OP]]

Would the Toyota factory manual test procedures be any help to you?

Gnarls.

Yes sir

[woodyth [OP]]

Thanks for the reply. I did reply in all caps not yelling, just trying to differentiate my replies. Thank You!

Sorry I didn't see this before.

A few things I've seen go wrong with the ignition can be diagnosed by a couple of small tests.

I'm guessing the engine turns over. YES TURNS OVER WELL

EFI or carby? CARB

If it's EFI and the "pop" sounded like it came from the cab a capacitor in the ECU may have popped. Even a small cap can announce like a shotgun. On a carby engine I'm not too sure if the ignition goes through the emissions computer. Pretty sure it doesn't. If a cap did pop you most likely would recognize an acrid odor.

Could you give a better description of the "pop"? Intake? Exhaust? Something else? TO ME IT SOUNDED LIKE A BALLON POP.

Have you looked under the valve cover to see if the timing chain is broken, or maybe severely jumped time? I HAVE NOT. I DID MAKE SURE THE ROTOR WAS STILL TURNING WHEN CRANKED OVER THOUGH. I COULDN'T MOVE IT MANUALLY.

Is the distribritor drive gear intact? Is the pin holding the gear on the shaft intact? In the proper position? Can you turn the distributor with the rotor? Is the rotor shaft able to be pulled and pushed?

Then, there is the ever present gremlin (rat) in the wiring harness.

Hope ya get it figgered out quickly.

[Gnarly4X]

Yes sir

Can I text you two pages?

PM me or email me at gnarly4X@gmail.com with a cell phone.

Thank you.

How did you determine there is NO spark?

Gnarls.

[woodyth [OP]]

I sent you a pm with my phone number. very much appreciated!

I checked it both at the coil wire going into distributor and at cylinder 2 and 3 with spark plug.

[Gnarly4X]

Hey Woody...

Trying to track down a "no start" over the internet is like sniffing flowers through your butt.

I'm just making a wild a$$ guess.....So if there is voltage from the coil, and NOT to the spark plugs, then it's the wire(s) from the coil/ignition module to the disty, the spark plug wires, or the disty is not generating the voltage to the spark plugs.

toyodaaddict mentioned the pickup in the disty?

Have you replaced the cap and rotor?.... I like factory or Echlin/NAPA, but most are good for 20,000 miles.

Carbon fiber spark plug wires can fail.  Solid wire type is better... but may cause some EMI in a radio.

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

I checked it both at the coil wire going into distributor and at cylinder 2 and 3 with spark plug.

I suppose there are different ways to check the spark at the plug.  I've done it the way my Dad taught me way back.

I remove the plug, hold it really firmly against a good ground with a non-conductive item, and have someone spin the starter.

I use a spark plug tester, less chance of getting bit with 25,000 volts.

Gnarls.

[sirdeuce]

I suppose there are different ways to check the spark at the plug.  I've done it the way my Dad taught me way back.

I remove the plug, hold it really firmly against a good ground with a non-conductive item, and have someone spin the starter.

I use a spark plug tester, less chance of getting bit with 25,000 volts.

Gnarls.

My favorite suggestion for test spark is the tongue method.

[sirdeuce]

"TO ME IT SOUNDED LIKE A BALLOON POP"

Typically, a "POP" would indicate ignition out of time, be it cam or distributor timing. A "POP" would be timing being WAY off. If you replaced the ignition components and still have rthe non-run issue look inside the ECU. Look for any "out of the ordinary" component condition. I've replaced a bunch of caps in ECUs, a few diodes and transistors as well. Surface mount components are a bit harder to see signs, use a magnifying glass or glasses, maybe a loop. Through hoe components are easier to see as burming and breaks can be easy to see.

If you are close I'd be happy to come take a look.

I'm close to San Luis Obispo CA.

[Gnarly4X]

My favorite suggestion for test spark is the tongue method.

My Dad was an old school auto mechanic.

He showed me how to make a gasket out of a Wheaties cereal box with a ball & peenus hammer.

I saw him once test the park plug wires on an old 6 cylinder DeSoto by grabbing quickly each one while the engine was idling.  Every time he got zapped he'd swear really loud.

Gnarls.

[sirdeuce]

My Dad was an old school auto mechanic.

He showed me how to make a gasket out of a Wheaties cereal box with a ball & peenus hammer.

I saw him once test the park plug wires on an old 6 cylinder DeSoto by grabbing quickly each one while the engine was idling.  Every time he got zapped he'd swear really loud.

Gnarls.

That's my favorite test method for leaking wires! Only works if you're grounded to the chassis. Good for testing the old school wires, not so good for newer systems. old systems with their 18-25kv and barely any current as opposed to the newer 60-100kv systems with up to 1 Amp of current. Get some of these systems with a Joule or more and your brain will shut down.

Scariest "hand held" zapper i've ever seen is the 10 Joule "taser" I built. Loud as a .38 pistol, and was capable of dropping a Moose!         Where did I put that damned thing??

[woodyth [OP]]

So timing chain replaced, guide was broke in two. Got both chunks of plastic out. Started, carb wasn't right, noticed spring missing on carb, ordered a new Weber 32/36, installed, now give it gas and it just bogs down. Wits end with this thing. Ideas on what to check next?

[Snowtoy]

Timing or air/fuel mixture.