I spent the last week removing the old turbo and installing the new one  ,I also moved the exhaust pyrometer out of the EGR blanking plate and drilled and tapped a new hole about 1 1/4" from the turbo mounting flange then put it all back together , the worst job was reconnecting the turbo oil supply to the engine , took it for a spin late saturday afternoon , max EGT temp was 420 degrees Celsius  and power was down heaps  boost was 8 psi , i tested the wastegate on the bench earlier in the week to see what pressure it opened at, and it started to open at 12 psi  and fully open at 15 psi , so I came to the conclusion that the engine is running lean , ie the new turbo is supplying more air than the std turbo , now the performance is only just better than a N/A engine , because I have had the pressure hose to the boost compensator  come off before whilst driving and it would manage 7 psi and 360 degrees  EGT , so I need to supply more fuel , I didnt want to adjust the main fuel screw ,as the fuel is correct off boost, so I took the Diaphragm and fuel pin out of the boost compensator ,to see in which position the conical ramp on the pin was ,as all the ones ive seen the conical ramp is eccentric to the pin, so you can rotate the pin and give the engine more fuel under boost, but guess what , my pin is concentric , so i have to see if I can get an eccentric pin

as far as I know , bugger all, timing will give you more power if the pump is advanced, ie turned opposite direction to engine rotation , with in reason , AFR  is controlled by fuel settings , to be done properly you stick a gas probe up the tailpipe  whilst on the dyno and adjust from the reading you get given

So I ordered a boost pin from the UK to suit a Land Rover TDI300  which cost about $50 Aud  but doesnt get here until the 4-1-2022  , so bugger it , ill have ago at turning one op , which I machined out of a L series head bolt  because the pin is 11mm diameter, i made the cone eccentric to the rest of the pin  by 1.5mm or .060" off center, and I also rotated the starwheel another 1/4 of a turn clockwise    and put it back together
 I now have to keep an eye on EGTs  as i think i could easily surpass 600C , the off boost acceleration is fantastic, floor it in 2nd and it will break traction on 1 wheel till the detroit stops it , and it has now more power than before with the old std turbo , as i can maintain the speed limit (110kph )  up a hill which i drive regularly , where as before  it would drop back to 97kph at 12psi, and now it barely makes 10psi , so it still isnt getting enough fuel , but I will put up with it for now , as i want to visit friends in Newcastle ,NSW  in june and ill get it tuned properly then as there is no one capable in tasmania
 also today  installed a rebuilt rear T case with new 23 spline 4.7 gears inside 

well the new landrover boost pin arrived  but it doesnt fit, the original pin measured 10.96mm diameter and the landrover part measures 11.90mm  and it is very hard , too hard to machine  but all the lengths look to be correct , you would think that all Bosch VE pumps would be the same, or maybe it is a landrover thing,  so back to the lathe again and turn up another pin , but this time i will mill the taper in the mill of course  , blank pin made waiting to be milled  , also went shooting last weekend  ,fuel economy was 13.1 litres per 100kms  which is better , used to be 13.5, have booked the ferry and a diesel tuning shop, Berrima Diesel for D Day (6-6-2022)
 the picture shows at the rear the original pin , center ,landrover pin , and front ,new pin blank
 Helipilot , I would remove your boost pin first and measure it as being a Mitsubishi part it might be a different diameter also and whilst it is out back off the spring tension by rotating the star wheel clockwise about half a turn, just watch your EGTs  on hills and flat out

well you will have to back off more then!!!!!