Topic: 1979 Long Bed 3.4 Swap/Build

[accountant_mechanic_]

Hello Everyone,

TLDR: I need help with the ABS, Cruise Control, and other wiring things that IDK what to do with..

I have a gutted 79 long bed- the only thing still in the engine bay is the brake master cyl, some hard lines for brakes, and the hoses that go to the heater core. The truck originally had a 20R and an L43 4-speed. It was slow and sluggish and hated cold weather, so I gutted it. I had planned on putting a 22R-E into the truck, but the opportunity came up to buy a 2000 4Runner with 5VZ-FE and an R150F trans (I don't care that the transfer case has the driver's side drop because I am going to use my dual cases with the adapter for the R150F). The 4Runner was considered a total loss because of damage to the drivers door/A-pillar, but it ran and drove fine- I drove it up onto the trailer to get it home and drove it into the shop, it didn't even throw a check engine code 

Pictures for reference: https://imgur.com/a/yz6rABx

I had a buddy come over and we dropped basically everything that I could think that I needed:
-Interior harness from behind dash with all relays and clips all the way to drivers door and dome light
-Engine harness with all the transmission plugs and external fuse  box all the way to headlights
-Gas tank/fuel pump plus all the wires to run them
-Hard lines for gas tank return (carb did not have)
-Transmission (took the T-case off to be sold)
-Engine and exhaust crossover pipe
-Exhaust from crossover pipe to the muffler (both cats)
-Everything else in the engine bay that might be useful like the Cruise Control Module and the vacuum box
-Steering column switches and ignition cylinder
-Pedals

Here's the result: https://imgur.com/a/7KYRSsI

Here are some other important things to note before I get to my question(s):
-I have removed the AC compressor/bracket/pulley from the 3.4 engine as I will not need it in my 79 pickup
-I did not take the ABS box from the old engine bay, I merely unplugged it from the wiring harness
-I did take the gauge cluster and ECU for the 3.4
-I will be putting a 4-5" HD lift on the truck to accommodate the engine weight, spacing needed for the oil pan, run hi-steer, etc.

OK (whew  ) so let's finally get to my questions:
1) Before I get rid of the donor car DID I FORGET ANYTHING THAT I WILL NEED FOR THE SWAP?
2) How do I bypass the need for ABS so that I do not throw a check engine code?
3) Will I even be able to use the cruise control module? (It is in the picture with my hand)
4) Will I be able to drop the motor mounts lower and not use a body lift?
5) Is there anything that you can think of that I have forgotten?

Please let me know! Thanks for reading! 
Noah

[accountant_mechanic_ [OP]]

I have been doing a ton of research on all parts of this swap, basically it looks like there are several factors to consider, I'll try to list the main ones below

Mounting the engine:
I just got off the phone with the guys from Hired Gun Offroad to talk about their 3.4 swap mounts (which can be found here on their website https://www.hiredgunoffroad.com/product/34_swap_mounts). After talking with them it appears that I will have to use the 3.0 brackets that go from the motor to the motor mount as well as the 3.0 motor mounts. This is because these mounts are narrower than the 3.4 mounts and will need to be slimmer in order to fit into the '79 frame. It also looks like I'll have to cut out the old motor mounts and weld in these new ones- which are low enough that I should not need a body lift to fit the 5VZ under the hood. It should be noted that I will also have to get some kind of rear-sump oil pan kit so that my oil pan does not interfere with the hi-steer rods. Speaking of steering, I will have to be careful as to how I mount the steering box because clearance will be limited for the steering shaft to run down the side of the motor.

Exhaust:
This one is a little tricky- I have the standard 5VZ crossover pipe that comes over the bell housing from the drivers to the passengers side. The only issue(s) that I can see with this is trying to run the exhaust back because the dual cases that I am using have the passenger side drop for the front driveshaft. The e-brake pulley is also on that side. As long as there is clearance for everything to live overe there and not give me a headache I am going to leave it. The alternative is to get a drivers side crossover pipe (like the one found here https://www.yotashop.com/toyota-3-4l-5vz-95-01-swap-crossover-exhaust-pipe-drivers-side-drop-kit-1043/?gclid=CjwKCAjwy42FBhB2EiwAJY0yQlBmtMeaV_pIi2msXePEQRR6RA54tJDAQqHTpRUsMCXvC-7zCfKGrRoCf08QAvD_BwE) and run it down the drivers side. Don't really want to eat that cost up just yet so I'll have to do some test fitting and see for myself how it all fits.

Wiring:
I have almost everything that I can think that I'll need from the donor ASIDE FROM THE ABS box. I sent the guys at ORS an email asking how to avoid throwing a check engine code for not running the ABS box clipped in and they told me to unplug the light from the dash.. No joke https://imgur.com/a/tPuD0oj so I'm not really sure what to do there. If I can get away with not plugging in the box and finding a way to trick the computer that's what I'd like to do. If I have to use the box then I'll hope to just cap off the lines and call it good since there's no freakin' way I'm going to get the ABS to work on my truck, nor would I even want to. The rest of the wiring should be fairly straight forward plug and play. I will have to figure out little things like mounting the 2000 cluster in the 1979 dash and the steering column controls/ignition cylinder. I'll also have to wire up the dome light and the door speakers but that's about it.

Transmission:
As far as I can tell I just need to buy the adapter to run my dual-cases with the R150. I already have the dual cases mounted using the Low Range Offroad crossmember, so I might have to cut the bracket and re-weld it to get better placement of the engine within the bay, but at the moment I am not going to worry about it. The more important thing is to ensure that I don't have to cut any more holes in my cab to run more shifters- that thing is starting to look like swiss cheese.

Again if there's anything that you think I've missed please let me know! Thanks!
Noah

[LittleSteve]

If you use the BBCode when you link from Imgur it will load the picture direct to the thread.

1)make sure you jave the key and the immobiliser ring from the column.
2)Cruise control will work as long as it has the correct speed inputs so make sure this doesnt come from the ABS but then you dont want the ABS.
3)leave the motor mounts where they are and see what they look like. You will probably run into header clearance issues if you go lower.
there is a company that specialises in  VZ conversion parts including rear sump oil pans. They are offroadsoultions.com or toyonlyswaps.com

6)Should be a fun build.
42)more lift does not equate to more weight capacity. guy on here used OME springs which was a 3" I believe and it sat lovely. You can tune leaf springs with add a leafs and what not, the flatter the spring is the nicer it will ride

[accountant_mechanic_ [OP]]

First off, thank you for the reply.

If you use the BBCode when you link from Imgur it will load the picture direct to the thread.

1)make sure you have the key and the immobilizer ring from the column.

Had to look up a BBCode- I thought that might be a bit of tomfoolery 

As far as the key cylinder I have the entire thing from where you put the key in the cylinder to where the steering column goes through the firewall and comes out in the engine bay. I have it all. All of the switches and the wheel and the plugs. Everything but the airbag.

2)Cruise control will work as long as it has the correct speed inputs so make sure this doesnt come from the ABS but then you dont want the ABS.

Can you tell from these pictures if the cruise control module will be able to be used without ABS?



The cruise control module just has one plug, but it is on the same harness as the ABS box so IDK
Noah

[LittleSteve]

Not without a wiring diagram. Which I don't have.
If its in the same loom I would imagine it is driven by the ABS.
Get the motor in and mounted before you worry to much about it.
Why exactly do you want Cruise?

[accountant_mechanic_ [OP]]

Why exactly do you want Cruise?

Literally no other reason than I think it would be cool to have cruise control on a ‘79 

[CrazyYota]

Your going to need a 2wd t100 oil pan to clear the front axle. And you will need to push the transmission transfer cases forward to clear the cross over pipe. Easier to do when its all bolted together in the truck. You can cut up the stock one and rework to the passenger side.

[CrazyYota]

https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103251.0

[accountant_mechanic_ [OP]]

https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103251.0

I’ve seen this build before- still looks like he is running a body lift though. You can call me stubborn but it will be a cold day in hell before I put a body lift on my truck. I’m hoping that with the lift the axle will be further away and I can let the motor sit a little lower in the engine bay. It just needs to sit like 1” lower right? Since the old mounts have to be cut out I can put the new ones wherever I need to. The only thing to be careful/wary of is where the high-steer rods are in relation to the oil pan. I don’t have high steer yet, but from what I understand and from what I’m seeing online they are just a two rod system. Theoretically I should only have to worry about the rod that goes from the steering box to the passenger side knuckle and I should only worry about it when the passenger tire is tucked.

Does that sound right or am I smoking crack?   

[accountant_mechanic_ [OP]]

I just got this reply from ORS today regarding what to do with the ABS situation.. Looks like I'm just going to have to deal with the check engine light..

I am assuming that this also means that cruise control will be non-functioning as I believe that the cruise control on these engines is connected to the ABS system (of which is definitely not going on/in my truck) so it'll just be another part that goes up for sale. The fact that there is no cruise control in my truck is no biggie to me though. I really only wanted it as it would be a cool novelty to have.

Anybody want a cruise control module from a 2000 4Runner 5VZ? 

Also I just scored big on a FB Marketplace deal, $20 for everything in the box. Looked like this when I arrived

And this was after a little organizing


I've already built and sold 1 transfer case out of the parts, but I still have lots of extras. If you can think of something that you need please feel free to reach out to me. I can't store this stuff forever 

Noah

[OVRAROK]

Sent you a PM

[accountant_mechanic_ [OP]]

And this was after a little organizing


I've already built and sold 1 transfer case out of the parts, but I still have lots of extras. If you can think of something that you need please feel free to reach out to me. I can't store this stuff forever 

I FORGOT TO MENTION: BOTH of the reduction housings that I have left have damage. One of them is chipped near the bottom and the other one has a crack that has been welded over. I am happy to send pictures to anyone interested 

[accountant_mechanic_ [OP]]

Hi All,

[TLDR] I got the suspension on the 79, want advice about mounting the 3.4 (NO F*CKING BODY LIFT)

Great to be back, sorry for the extended delay. I was doing some little stuff like graduating college, getting my first big-boy job, and setting myself up to move out of Portland. So nothing serious 

I am happy to say that the suspension aside from a wood block rear perch (long story but I have another perch coming) and the rear shocks are done. Most of the suspension came from AllPro, I know some of you guys hate them but I've had really good luck with them in the past and have no reason to badmouth them. I got a set of frame supports/stiffeners from WFO Concepts to weld on before the shock hoops/supports got welded, and I got Bilstein 5125's in the 12" option for the shocks front and rear. It was a long and somewhat nerve-racking process, but here is the result:

From the front

Passenger shock hoop

Driver shock hoop


And finally, from the side. You'll have to ignore the fact that it looks so high in the front and that the angle of both the front shocks and the shackles are not good. There will eventually be about 650ish pounds added up there to weigh the thing down. We cranked down the suspension with straps and had some boys sitting on it and decided that it will sit between 1.5-"3" back when weighed down and that this would be the ideal angle. Also keep in mind the fact that it is currently on 31"s and I will be running 37"s when all said and done.


I left it unpainted underneath because in a couple of weeks I am going to have both axles trussed and the diff's armored, so I didn't want to do the same job twice- especially since I can store it inside. I have a set of new front fenders for it that are in the primer and I'm pretty sure that's the only "body-work" that I am going to do. The cab, fenders, and hood will be painted, but I am selling the bed and making a flatbed for it with a box.

I also still need to actually mount the damn 3.4 that is just sitting in the shop. I have been wary about attempting this mount because I don't want to have to cut/move the frame mounts but I really don't want to cut the hood to fit it in the bay. I also still need a rear sump oil pan before I can mount it because I have high-steer now and don't want to be bumping pan when I start to tuck...That leads me back to where to mount the engine so that I don't hit the steering arms, don't cut the hood, don't hit the crossover pipe on the firewall, and don't hit the fan on the radiator... does a perfect mounting spot exist? While I contemplate this, please enjoy the picture of my pressure-treated wood perch 



Advice about mounting the 3.4 in the 79 would be greatly appreciated, no I will not consider a body lift, thank you in advance for your input,
Noah

[accountant_mechanic_ [OP]]

Hello friends. Last night I put the 3.4 in the 79. I used the stock motor mounts from the engine, cut the motor mounts off the frame, lowered them 0.5" and moved them back 3.75". The motor fits with the clutch fan and the radiator. I did not have to cut the hood. I do not have a body lift.

Here is the engine in the bay:



And here is it with the hood on and closed:


The R150F fits perfect, I don't think I'll have to cut much to make the shifter fit. Everything went together great. Waiting on parts to finish steering, axle trusses, and differential armor.

Cheers 

[Bananaclip]

Fantastic!  Keep us updated please


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[accountant_mechanic_ [OP]]

Hi all-

Here's an update on my progress:
First, I got my trusses all situated and ready to weld


Second, I finally did the 3.4 oil pan swap from a front sump to a rear sump- I have to say that it makes a huge difference since now I can actually fit both of my high-steer bars.



If you have or are planning on using the WFO Concepts frame stiffeners (found here https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Toyota-4wd-Pickup-1979-85-Frame-Plates/3780/19595) then you will have your steering box mounted vertically and with no angle. This is great for not cutting out any unnecessary area from the front clip, but it makes it so that you need to use a flat pitman arm. Otherwise when you tuck your driver's side wheel into the wheel-well, the steering bar that comes off of the pitman arm will hit the leaf spring before it flattens out. As you can see, there is not much room for upward travel here.


So I am in the process of getting a flat pitman arm, getting my steering stabilizer mounted, and figuring out how I want to run rear shocks (I am thinking through the bed on a shock bar).

Cheers, Noah