I am running an 81 22r in a Toyota Celica. After the car has sat for an hour or two it will start on the first crank and dies after 3-4 seconds of smooth running (no matter what I do with the gas peddle). Additional starts fire after 7-8 seconds of cranking, then it runs choppy for 3-4 seconds before dying. I have replaced the fuel filter, the fuel pump, and cleared the gas tank and all of the fuel lines. I cant get the car to run long enough to check the timing - but a redneck jumped tooth check (locking the timing to either side of the slot) yields no results. I recently replaced the plugs and wires, but I will check for fuel on the plugs tonight. The exhaust is not plugged. No results from pinching the fuel return line either.

The fuel pump is producing enough pressure - but I don't see anything in the sight glass with the wife cranking the engine. I have no experience with carburetors, I'm on a budget, and am struggling to find a Hanes Manuel for the car. Any ideas? Feel free to email me / reply here.

Sounds like the float valve may be stuck?  Could be AAP? Could be vacuum leak?

Sounds like more of fuel/air thing than ignition.

Can you look straight down the carb before you try to start the engine, turn the throttle linkage and see if you can any fuel shooting into the venturi?

Rebuilding that carb is not too bad.  I've rebuilt lots of carbs in past years, but haven't opened one up in years.  The rebuild kits come with detailed instructions and diagrams.


Gnarls.

Hey Colston...

There are guys on here that know way more than I do about that carb.  H8PVMNT has made love to his carbs more than a few times.

WALKER PRODUCTS 15827A Info
Carb Manufacturer: Aisin: 2 BBL; Carb Model: Aisan

If you look down the carb with engine not running, and pull the throttle linkage fairly quickly and smoothly you should see a fine stream of fuel squirt into the venturi.

If the stream is broken up, then the AAP is bad.

If NO stream of fuel - then you have to throw the carb away and get a new one.





NO!!! I’m kidding!!

If there is no fuel being squirted, I suspect the float valve is stuck.

If you pull the throttle linkage slowly you should see a nice steady unbroken stream of fuel being squirted from the Auxillary Accelerator Pump.

I rebuilt the carb on my 1985 22R Pickup back in 1999, so it’s been quite awhile, I’m pulling this out of my old memory bank.

I would buy the Walker kit, but the Rochester on RockAuto looks good too.

If you buy a kit for AutoZone or other auto parts store, ask who makes the kit.  Like most aftermarket auto parts, some are good and some are junk.

The Walker part number for your 1981 is the same part number for the 1985, so it’s the same carb.

I don’t remember any carb that I rebuilt that requires special tools.

When I rebuild my carbs, I clean the carb with carb cleaner and blow it off with compressed air.  If you don’t have a compressor you can use canned air.

When you disassemble the carb there may be some fuel in it, so do it over a clean bucket or some thick rags.

Some people soak the carb in bucket of solvent overnight, I don’t like to soak anything overnight, so I clean the parts with carb cleaner and a small brush, and air. If I soak any parts I use paint thinner and soak for 10 or 15 minutes.

I get a big old terrycloth towel and lay it out on a nice big flat table when I’m ready to start the rebuilding.  I follow the kit’s instructions.

There are lots of parts, so I work on a table sitting down, relaxed, in a quiet place and plenty of light. TAKE YOUR TIME!  Be extra careful not to lose any little parts, like the ball check bee-bees, o’rings, and spring clips. The measurement for the float level needs to be exact.  Torque things nice and snug, but don’t over tighten them – brass alloy is relatively is soft.

Cleanliness is critical as you reassemble the parts.

Let us know what you find out.

Gnarls.

Alright, a Walker Products 15827A Carburetor Rebuild Kit is on the way. I have been busy with work and have not gotten a chance to check for fuel in the venturi.

jetted to big or to rich. float set to high??

RUGER

Alright, the carb is rebuilt. I didn't notice anything broken or anything stuck. The only issue seemed to be the spacing with the float. Put it back in with the new parts and now the car starts and will stay running - but it idles at 2900 rpm. I suspect its the air fuel mixture and idle screw - but I am still completely new to carbs and don't quite understand how the air fuel mixture screw works. The walker rebuild kit said screw it in until it seats, then back out 2.5 turns. Nothing I do to the screw (moving +/- 2 turns from the 2.5) seems to do anything. It wont idle low enough for me to check the timing. Any ideas?

It had an inch thick hard rubber spacer at the base (no paper gaskets). I added the paper gaskets from the rebuild kit - should I not have done that? Also, the rebuild kit had kind of crap instructions - does anything need to be torqued to spec?

Alright - I found a few issues. The Valve-Idle Compensator tabs were layered incorrectly. Apparently that component is an 81-82 only part, (it was extremely difficult to find the assembly order of those parts - two tabs, a thin U shaped spacer, the base, and the thick U shaped block) which created a vacuum leak. Also, the timing is clearly off. Moving the distributor housing changes the idle speed. So now I have a few issues - which hose is supposed to connect to the bottom of the air filter housing (small 1/8"insh hose that only connects the open air inside the diameter of the air filter and the bottom passenger side of the filter housing *sorry, cant post photos yet*). Also - how do I check the timing? I have never done the timing on a Carbed engine. I keep seeing "ground the T" but I dont have a labeled fuse box, and dont know how to get the engine speed to a timing RPM.

Sorry for being such an amateur - thanks for the help.
Having moved the distributor housing and fixed the valve-idle compensator, it now only idles with pressure on the peddle. The moment I release the peddle it dies.

Yes the butterfly will close. Do you think I need to tighten up the electric choke coil?

I'm not sure what you mean by tighten. I don't remember adjusting mine, but most electric chokes are adjustable.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/adjusting-riveted-choke.129625/

Like many Toyota parts, the electric choke thermostat is one those Japanese auto engineers are very proud of.

The choke functions primarily for cold start.  If they are stuck some how, typically you get over rich mixture.  If they aren't working, you don't get enough fuel in the mixture so the engine wil have harder time firing when really cold.

Regarding the ignition timing - you need to get a timing light on it to accurately time it.  But I timed my 22R by ear many times.  So I'd loosen the disty bolt just enough the rotate the distributor and see if you can retard the spark.  It may be too advanced and causing the RPM to be too high.

Another thing that can cause a high RPM at idle is a vacuum leak.  Of course the idle screw setting is important.

Gnarls.

I have a timing light, but am struggling to see the notch under the gauge block. I see some forums say disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the hoses (just with your fingers I assume) and others say jump the T (a fuse somewhere I assume, is this just for 22RE engines?)

Also, disregard the hose problem - the hose I needed had tucked itself under the battery and hid from me.

Take a white grease pencil and fill the timing notch on the harmonic balancer pulley. You need to plug the vacuum hose to disty.

Ignition timing on 22R is 0 degrees at 900 RPM

Gnarls.

Thanks for the help, should I get the car to 900 rpm with the idle speed screw only? Also, I think I am still having trouble with the Valve-idle compensator plugging properly. Every 4-5 starts the car will start and rev up to and stay at 3k. Will I run into trouble if I just plug that compartment? (driver side rear of the carb, a vertical shell held on with two offset screws)

You need to get the engine idling properly at 900 RPMs so you can correctly set the ignition timing.

If the idle screw is closed (and be careful not to crank it down hard) and the engine is still idling too fast, the air/fuel mixture is wrong and getting too much fuel, you have vacuum leak, or the disty is way too advanced.

You should be able stall the engine with the idle screw.

Gnarls.

So you have probably figured this out by now, but just in case...

There are two screws that could be called the "idle screw" You have described adjusting the idle mixture screw, but there is also a screw that holds the throttle slightly open to set idle speed. It should be at the very back of the carburetor and IIRC it has a coil spring underneath the head.