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I do 7/11 cold as well. You might replace the valve tappets if the noise returns.On the tappets your referring to just the threaded bolt section that makes contact with the valve head correct? I considered just buying new rocker sets but If I take the rocker assembly out I will have to re torque the head again so I will have to buy new bolts and head gasket again as well. So the idea of just the tappers is very interesting to me. Thanks
On the tappets your referring to just the threaded bolt section that makes contact with the valve head correct? I considered just buying new rocker sets but If I take the rocker assembly out I will have to re torque the head again so I will have to buy new bolts and head gasket again as well. So the idea of just the tappers is very interesting to me. Thanks
The 20-22R head bolts are not torque to yield, and Toyota does not advise replacement evertime the head is removed.I have reused head bolts for years unless they are rusted, and then I replace them with used ones!In todays world of fancy engines, almost ever engine uses torque to yield headbolts The machine shop was playing it safe when they told you to replace them. Look them over carefully, and if they look good, you know what I would do.
just did a complete rebuild and everything is brand new except block and intake manifold.
I have read through posts here and the yota forum for fyi. I have a 91 22re pickup, just did a complete rebuild and everything is brand new except block and intake manifold. I followed the factory recommendations from my Chilton's manual on correct valve lash. It states to bring engine to operating temp and adjust intake at .008 and exhaust at .012. I have correctly adjusted it and everything was completed to spec. It is noisy, and I know solid lift engines make a little noise but this is almost diesel sounding lol. Would you guys recommend adjusting cold at 7 11? Or 6 10. Thanks in advance
I understand your frustration. Give it a try at 8 and 10 cold. Once warmed it should quiet down. There may be many people who will disagree with me on that. Personally I haven't had any trouble with it and have had quite a few of them.
Also for Gnarls, I did not rebuild the engine myself. I used a certified mechanic who had good references and he was an honest guy. The pistons are 30 over factory type pistons. The camshaft and all other parts are factory spec. I didnt go with a modified camshaft profile or higher compression pistons. I use it as a dd so didnt want a hot rod lol. I do take it fishing some though and the 4x4 is nice for that.
The stock valve adjustment does 4 valves at a time. (2 adjustments)You may want to try 4 adjustments (2 valves per adjustment) were you do each cylinder individually at TDC when both valves are closed.
Depends on the quality and/or duration of cam.It's possible with the stock adjustment procedure that you might be measuring the 'takeup' ramp on cylinders 2&3 rather than the base circle.
... should I have went with a "torker" cam...
Well Gnarls the truck already has a hedman full length header and 2.25" exhaust exiting through a glass pack of some kind. I absolutely hate it, it's so loud. I was thinking of at least going to a dyno max super turbo or magna flow muffler. Possibly even putting a stock exhaust manifold back on the truck as well.
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