Topic: Steel City Racing & Marlin Crawler: KOH 2019 Toyota 4Runner IFS 4600 Build

[Charles4x4]

Is there a passage in the rule book describing this requirement in detail?

Here you go - I've memorized it at this point:
"8.2.23 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
KILL SWITCH
a) A brightly colored, highly visible, easily distinguishable, master kill switch must be located in the dashboard area of the vehicle and be clearly labeled. The master kill switch must be able to shut down the entire primary electrical system for the vehicle. The master kill switch must shut down the engine when in the off
position. Winch power supply and low amp draw secondary electrical equipment which requires an uninterrupted power supply may circumvent this switch. It is highly recommended that heavy-duty marine-style battery disconnect switches, capable of carrying total vehicle current load (including winch) be used and wired so that the entire electrical system can be disabled with one switch.
b) Kill switch should be accessible by all occupants in the vehicle."

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

I need some advice on the Master Kill Switch.  How are the KOH rigs with only a simple marine kill switch wiring everything to kill both the battery and alternator at once?  If I disconnect the battery, the alternator keeps going.

I have this one installed now and it doesn't work:
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/30205
- It doesn't kill the alternator
- And it's now draining the battery even when not-engaged (despite Painless promising me it wouldn't)

I have this one in the box:
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/50105
- It'll claims it will kill the alternator, but I still have to solve the battery being drained, which means it won't work.

I found this one online:
4430 Master Battery Cut-Off Switch
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00109

Is the Pagusus Auto Racing switch the solution and I can send all the Painless stuff back?  Or is there a simpler solution.

What is everyone else doing to kill both the battery and alternator without draining the battery?

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

Found a few hours last night to remove the Painless kill switch that didn't work and also dropped the stock tank.  Within seconds, I realized installing the OEM setup (with upgraded pumps and filter) in the fuel cell wouldn't work as I could never get the seal right (Toyota made it complicated). 

So, we need to go with a standard external fuel cell external, EFI based system and I'll just go with an aftermarket sender and gauge.  I'll either have to tie it into the stock fuel lines (pic below) or just run it from scratch from the rails or all the way.

Stock Tank:


Stock Lines at Rear Drivers door frame rail:


Stock Connectors:


Lots of space now:


There is an access hatch just before where the cell will be that we can use to run the lines through and into the cargo area.

I'll plan to call Aeromotive later today.  Suggestions welcome.

[THK Matt]

Aeromotive is a good call, used them for restoration on a 73 FJ40 upfitting a HolleyEFI on a 2F.

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

Okay, I literally spent hours with Aeromotive Tech today (Brett is solid) and here's the initial plan:
- Phantom 200 Stealth EFI Fuel System:
https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/phantom-200-stealth-fuel-system/
- Use ORB-06 to AN-06 Fittings for Supply and Return
- Run steel braided line from AN-06 to existing Supply and Return hard lines
- Use AN-06 to 6MM / 8MM Female adapters back to OEM Hard Lines along frame

We'll cap the vent on the Phantom (ORB-06 Port Plug) and instead run AN-8 from the fuel cell vent to the OEM charcoal catchment can (which should meets KOH Rules after a lot of routing).

The Phantom will drop in the cell (via 3.25" Hole Saw) and work fine with Alltech baffles.  I'll then do a slightly larger hole in the lid of the cell to make sure it doesn't contact when sealed.

I also got a 10" Fuel Level Sender and Ohm converter from Summit that'll hopefully allow us to use our stock gauge (if not, we'll use aftermarket).

If anyone sees any issues with this system, let me know.  Aeromotive had never worked on a 4.7L V8, so it took a lot of pictures and hours of diagnosing to figure it all out.

Now I just need to find 6MM and 8MM Female to AN-06 Male adapters...

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

Deleted

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

I have to travel a good bit for work this week, but wanted to send out a quick update.  Lots of work done this past week:

- Atlas II 3.8 Trail Case and Adapater for A750F ordered and should be in AL in time for me to load it up for the drive to CA.  Thanks again to Advance Adapters for their sponsorship on this build!

- East Coast Gear Supply also signed up to sponsor the build.  We're getting the Front Nitro 4.56 Gears, Install Kit, and our Front ARB Locker from ECG!  The rear Currie RJ60 already has the ARB installed.

- Aermotive is also sponsoring the build - we'll be running their Phantom 200 Kit and they've included various adapters we'll need for AN lines.

- Ordered a ton of parts for the fuel system on Friday - mostly Russell fittings and AN6 lines.  Who knows if I got what I'll actually need.

- New "basic" master kill switch also ordered and on it's way that should solve finally our Battery/Alternator problem.

- Classic Instruments Fuel Level Sender and Ohm converter arrived over the weekend.  Since no-one has a sender that works with the OEM Toyota gauge, this converter should allow us to make it work:


- Rear LED race light came in from Amazon.  Amber and Red with Clear Centers (acts as reverse LED lights).  Hope to have time to mount/wire it this week - likely put it on the spoiler and have to double/triple mount it so it doesn't fly off:


- My wife and girls were kind enough to take a road trip to TN with me to hunt through a Toyota heavy salvage yard south of Nashville on Saturday.  Cool owners from Jordan who had been in the states for 30-yrs - they had a ton of 4th gen doors!  The place was a mud pit though.  But we found solid doors for an extremely low price.  We'll leave the glass in till it gets to CA (in case it rains):


At this point, all key sponsors are landed and all key purchases have been made for this build.  The main things left are electrical (master kill switch, race light, & MAF Calibrator), fuel system (plumbing, fuel pressure gauge, & cell temporary mount), salvage door install with secondary locks, and then the drive out to CA where the real work begins (suspension, steering, cage, armor, axles, t-case, tries/wheels, etc).  I may also try to fit in safety nets and latches before the drive over if I have time.

One question:
Rugged Radios has agreed to sponsor us with a discount, but I'm honestly really surprised at how much comms cost, even with the discount.  Are there any lower budget solutions out there for Vehicle to Pit/Pit to Vehicle and Driver to Co-Driver communications?  Similar to what LeadNav is doing for Navigation (as a cheaper Lowrance alternative)?

For example, I've looked at bluetooth motorcycle Driver to Rider devices that could help with comms for $150 or so on Amazon.

Thanks everyone.

[Rockcrawlintoy]

One question:
Rugged Radios has agreed to sponsor us with a discount, but I'm honestly really surprised at how much comms cost, even with the discount.  Are there any lower budget solutions out there for Vehicle to Pit/Pit to Vehicle and Driver to Co-Driver communications?  Similar to what LeadNav is doing for Navigation (as a cheaper Lowrance alternative)?

For example, I've looked at bluetooth motorcycle Driver to Rider devices that could help with comms for $150 or so on Amazon.

Thanks everyone.

there are some nice cheap radio solution. I use a Baofang hand held which is the same radio rugged radios sells but I paid 25 bucks for it and rugged programmed it. you can buy the in car units as well for like 100 bucks and rugged will program it.

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

there are some nice cheap radio solution. I use a Baofang hand held which is the same radio rugged radios sells but I paid 25 bucks for it and rugged programmed it. you can buy the in car units as well for like 100 bucks and rugged will program it.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Baofeng-BF-9500-400-470MHz-Transceiver-Vehicle/dp/B00RFI8YXK

I assume we'd need 2 to do Car to Pits / Pits to Car?  What about Driver/Co-Driver intercom?

[Rockcrawlintoy]

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Baofeng-BF-9500-400-470MHz-Transceiver-Vehicle/dp/B00RFI8YXK

I assume we'd need 2 to do Car to Pits / Pits to Car?  What about Driver/Co-Driver intercom?

Yeah one radio for the car and one for the pits. As far as intercoms not sure on that.

[Rockcrawlintoy]

you guys have a pumper for fresh air?

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

On safety nets, it is my understanding that SFI 27.1 Cert requires:

1) Window nets are required to be constructed either entirely from 1″ Webbing Material, or from Mesh Material with a strip of 1″ Webbing at 8 inch intervals across the length of the net.

2) The net must be secured to the vehicle on the top and bottom by either a Spring Rod or Latch System. This allows for a quick disconnect of the net by the occupants, regardless of the position of the vehicle. For small triangle style nets grommets are recommended.

Question: Is there increased visibility of Mesh with 1" Webbing at 8" intervals?  Or does everyone just go with 1" webbing for simplicity?

And what about Spring Rod vs. Latch?
Spring Rod:


Latch:


Per the rules:
"Nets attached to door frames are permitted." 
-----This is what we'll do.-----

"Nets must be installed so that the occupants can release the netting unassisted and exit the vehicle regardless of the position of the vehicle."

"The net border or edge and the net attachment must be made of materials that are as strong as, or stronger than, the net itself. Net attachments must be at a minimum of every 6 inches. Acceptable attachments include, but are not limited to: steel hose clamps, snaps, lift-a-dot, metal hooks, and steel rods. Nets must be tight so that when subject to a pushing force of approximately 50lbs the net deflects no more than four inches."

[Rockcrawlintoy]

I think a lot of people go with mesh for visibility. Visibility will be garbage anyway with 5 point harness, helmet, HANS and all that
 

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

I think a lot of people go with mesh for visibility. Visibility will be garbage anyway with 5 point harness, helmet, HANS and all that

That's what I was thinking.  Mesh with the 1" webbing at 8" intervals. 

Now I have to solve the latches - ideally I secure it to the door frames so we can just open/close doors instead of dealing with latches and climbing out windows! 

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

you guys have a pumper for fresh air?

No, was looking at RaceAir Dual.  It's down the priority list though
https://www.pciraceradios.com/collections/raceair/products/raceair-dual-package

Suggestions?

[Rockcrawlintoy]

No, was looking at RaceAir Dual.  It's down the priority list though
https://www.pciraceradios.com/collections/raceair/products/raceair-dual-package

Suggestions?

No suggestions but after a week on the lake bed I would want one for racing. hammer lung sucks

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

A little more progress last night...







Also got all the door hardware swapped over to the salvage doors so all we have left is to install them.

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

A few more goodies from our sponsors at East Coast Gear Supply just arrived!

4.56 Front Nitro Gears that to match the rear 4.56 gears in the Currie RJ60:


Front ARB air locker to match the rear ARB in the Currie RJ60:

[T-Revv]

  Love the way this is coming together.  Looking forward to seeing at KOH next year.   

[THK Matt]

Hell ya Charles!

[Rockcrawlintoy]

ontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/38518075_401692883687991_7520904810980179968_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=30b95e4ff0dfd491a8f53c5173cc7d9d&oe=5C121123[/img]

- PRP seats are here. These will be installed on temp brackets as soon as this weekend for the drive to CA and integrated into the roll-cage in CA:

What kind of seat is that?

[T-Revv]

What kind of seat is that?

He said they were PRP Ivan Stewart Pro Seats.

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

He said they were PRP Ivan Stewart Pro Seats.

Correct:
https://www.prpseats.com/ivan-stewart-signature-seats/

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

Think this template design will work for the safety nets from PRP?
- Mesh with 1" Webbing at 8" Intervals
- Spring Steel Rod at the Top
- Spring Steel Rod at the Bottom
- Grommets around the rest (Verticals and Top Curve) for Hooks or Hose Clamps



Per the rules:
"Nets attached to door frames are permitted." 

"Nets must be installed so that the occupants can release the netting unassisted and exit the vehicle regardless of the position of the vehicle."

"The net border or edge and the net attachment must be made of materials that are as strong as, or stronger than, the net itself. Net attachments must be at a minimum of every 6 inches. Acceptable attachments include, but are not limited to: steel hose clamps, snaps, lift-a-dot, metal hooks, and steel rods. Nets must be tight so that when subject to a pushing force of approximately 50lbs the net deflects no more than four inches."

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

Update: I'm still waiting on the Aeromotive parts to arrive.  And I'm holding off on the Master Kill Switch until I finish the plumbing so I can test one system at a time in case either fail.

- Master Kill Switch & Fuel Line Parts: A bunch of parts arrived for the Master Kill Switch and the Fuel Cell Plumbing (but no pump just yet):


- Fuel Line Adapters: I ran the fuel line plumbing as far as I could without a pump to ultimately tie into.  Russell for lines and fittings was an obvious choice.  The 5/16" quick connector fit the larger Supply line fine.  I had to make an adapter out of fuel line and a doubled-up connector for the smaller Return line - in theory it should be very strong, but we'll find out when we test it.  I literally inserted the OEM Supply line into the Male Adapter and ran fuel line across the top of both with clamps on both sides, so it's technically doubled-up.




- Fuel Line Routing: I was able to route them above the frame rails and into the cab using the old fuel access hatch.  It is lined with rubber, so the sheet metal cannot tear the fuel line while enduring vibrations/shocks, and clamps down tight so they cannot move.  We'll see if it stays here:






- Salvage Doors: I also finished installing the salvage doors, so all "bolt-on" exterior sheet metal is now salvage and ready for KOH abuse.  I ended up getting these for a steal with glass, trim, and electronics - so I can ride to CA with the glass in and pull all glass once there.




My only surprise on the doors is that the interior handle is integrated into the trim.  It weights nothing, but may interfere with the cage.  If so, I'll cut out the interior door handle and bolt it in or weld in some metal ones.  We will need interior handles given the safety nets will prevent us from just using the exterior handles.  And I'll need to cut into the trim for the secondary locks anyway.

- RCVs: I spoke with RCV on Friday and our front axle shafts are done!  They are being shipped to Marlin's shop as early as this week.  Our set will be the first set of Gen 2 shafts for the 4th gen ever made!  I'm really anxious to see a RCV Gen 2 vs. OEM pic.  Supposedly the difference vs. OEM and Gen 1 is HUGE - completely re-engineered CV Joints, additional housing clearance, and added strength throughout.

- Timeline: We had a build-team call on Friday and decided to delay the trip to CA until Mid-October instead of Mid-September.  The front suspension and steering prototype simply won't be done until late September at this point and we need 2-weeks of testing before it goes on the 4Runner.  I still feel good on the overall timeline, but it certainly pushes the first round of testing back.  Everything else, including the Atlas II build, are all on track.

- Front Suspension/Steering: The front suspension/steering prototype looks great and is being built right with on-the-fly "flexibility" so we can tweak the designs, cut, and re-build if needed.  I can't go into details, but it will be "Comprehensive".  And Wyatt at RockSolidToys is of course anxious to get his hands on the T-Case, Rear Suspension, and Cage!

- Small Stuff: I reached out to Denso about sponsoring with new OEM parts (starter, alternator, etc) to refresh the vehicle.  I also reached out to Royal Purple about a full synthetic refresh.  I've finished first draft templates for the safety nets and need to transfer to poster board so I can mail to PRP.  I'm also working on the rear race light, fuel level sender converter, and Comms/Intercom.

[zippo]

- Fuel Line Adapters: I ran the fuel line plumbing as far as I could without a pump to ultimately tie into.  Russell for lines and fittings was an obvious choice.  The 5/16" quick connector fit the larger Supply line fine.  I had to make an adapter out of fuel line and a doubled-up connector for the smaller Return line - in theory it should be very strong, but we'll find out when we test it.  I literally inserted the OEM Supply line into the Male Adapter and ran fuel line across the top of both with clamps on both sides, so it's technically doubled-up.

I would be worried about the little rubber part. It looks super jancky. Why not pull the line and braze a AN fitting to the end? It would take a few min and remove a failure point.

[Rockcrawlintoy]

agreed. Looks more like a trail fix. You dropped some $$$ on good parts  for the fuel system may as well do it right.

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

agreed. Looks more like a trail fix. You dropped some $$$ on good parts  for the fuel system may as well do it right.

I would be worried about the little rubber part. It looks super jancky. Why not pull the line and braze a AN fitting to the end? It would take a few min and remove a failure point.

It's hard to tell from the pic, but the OEM fuel line is now inside a Male Adapter - both of which have raised portions locking into each other.  It's Hard Line all the way across - the fuel line simply holds it all together as extra precaution.  If it fails when I start it up or during testing, I'll of course quickly move on to Plan B.

[Toy(Yota)]

This thing is gonna be rad

[Charles4x4 [OP]]

Our new Aeromotive Phantom Stealth 200 kit arrived yesterday along with the various fittings and adapters we'll need.  Still waiting on the Aeromotive wiring kit and 10m filter, but I picked up all the various hole saw blades I'll need last night so I can go ahead and mount it in the fuel cell.





Thanks again to Aeromotive for sponsoring our build!