Topic: 22R hybrid questions

[deadhead]

Ok the time has come to finally try the hybrid build my self and see once and for all what all the hype/hate really is about.
 I have done a lot of "research" (fourm reading) but i still have a few questions that i have not been able to answer.

What I have: late 22r complete with spun rod bearing, new ish 22re head and 20r head intake exhaust ect.

Now i know that i need to deck my block.
 What i need to know is stuff like will that effect how far the pistons go into the combustion chamber and can i cut my valve seats to fit the larger valves form the other heads or do i need new seats, if i need new seats can i use the old ones from the other heads, is a cam worth the money for hp gain or does it just move the powerband and am i going to need new springs or can i use my fairly new ones from the 22re head. 

And lastly what pistons do i need, will the stock ones that are in there work?

[deadhead [OP]]

I took the heads apart and measured the valves and springs.
 The first thing i noticed is the 22r valves are about 1/10 shorter and the springs are about 1/10 longer then the 20r, will this effect the the operation of the engine or can i just compress the springs and use them?

I also read a writeup by Devin Noel on fallonz.com and it states that you need to mill the head to get the right centerline, can you deck the head enough to skip the need to deck my late 22r block?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[H8PVMNT]

I would do your milling off the head not the block. If you mill you block down that far your pistons will be above the deck too far. Make the 20r head the same height as the later 22re head.

Stock pistons should work.  You will probably need new valve seats.  I just used the stock 20r valves on mine and it was still a noticeable difference in power.  You can use the same valve springs but I would buy fresh ones if I were you.

[79coyotefrg]

I took the heads apart and measured the valves and springs.
 The first thing i noticed is the 22r valves are about 1/10 shorter and the springs are about 1/10 longer then the 20r, will this effect the the operation of the engine or can i just compress the springs and use them?

I also read a writeup by Devin Noel on fallonz.com and it states that you need to mill the head to get the right centerline, can you deck the head enough to skip the need to deck my late 22r block?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

a 81-84 block will need no milling at all only what is needed to make it smooth if needed.  a August 84 to 95 22R/RE block known as a laser block is not recommended

[Gnarly4X]

... is a cam worth the money for hp gain or does it just move the powerband...

That depends.  The cam profile typically will complement the intake, exhaust, compression ratio, ignition timing, and AFR.  The selection of the cam depends on what you want for performance.

A change in the cam profile will generally change where the peak torque and HP numbers are within the RPM range, and can affect the peak RPM.

The range and number of opinions on camshafts for the 20/22 engine is wide and deep.

The good news is… you have a good number of choices and lots experiences to read about.

Gnarls.

[H8PVMNT]

Glen is right you should really use an early block.

[deadhead [OP]]

I would have used the pre 84.5 block but alas i only have laser a block and milling is cheaper then a new block.

I talked to lCE and after promptly trying to talk me out of the build they finally confermed what H8PVMNT said about milling the head, they also stated that the valve trains are identical but my calipers say otherwise; at this rate i think i will take your advise and use the stock valves.

Now i saw one opinion stating that the "hybrid build" is not worthwhile unless you are porting/polishing the head due to the fact that the upgrade is mostly based no (to my understanding) air flow this makes good sense to me, do any of you have thoughts/tips on a PnP of a 20r head?

[79coyotefrg]

I would have used the pre 84.5 block but alas i only have laser a block and milling is cheaper then a new block.

I talked to lCE and after promptly trying to talk me out of the build they finally confermed what H8PVMNT said about milling the head, they also stated that the valve trains are identical but my calipers say otherwise; at this rate i think i will take your advise and use the stock valves.

Now i saw one opinion stating that the "hybrid build" is not worthwhile unless you are porting/polishing the head due to the fact that the upgrade is mostly based no (to my understanding) air flow this makes good sense to me, do any of you have thoughts/tips on a PnP of a 20r head?

you dont have a 20R head yet??  pick n pull would be a fine source.   The 20R head by design flows MUCH better in its stock form than any 22 head will .   thats why they put the bigger valves in the 22 head originally.   If you are doing all this work might ask the machine shop to install new valve guides (the shorter LCEngineering one if possible) and use stock 22R/RE valve seats and valves.  then a modest cam will allow much better results. I drive my old girl like I stole it and with a .290 duration cam have been told under a load at higher (above 4000 rpm) i shoot a 3 foot flame from the tail pipe     not good if offroading in the desert but fun as hell
Make sure and get a 20R intake and you will need some headers but if no bling :coin: just run the 22R exhaust

[79coyotefrg]

you MUST have the machine shop measure carefully your stock head and then shave the 20R head to that spec.  it needs to match as close to perfect as possible