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Well, the bracket helped, but I still need new hardware. Can I get by with new nuts only, or had I better do new studs as well?My personal instinct is new studs and nuts. But if I'm wrong, I'll happily save the trouble and expense of replacing them....
Unfortunately, I don't think there's enough thread left to hold a jam nut.
The studs appear to be solidly in the head, with a few nuts religiously backing off every trip to town. Some nuts are much worse than others; There is a motley collection of hardware attaching the manifold, including quite a few aftermarket nuts and at least one or two aftermarket studs I re-bent some of the Toyota nuts to their proper triangular shape at the tip -- the one that I got most aggressive with the hammer on is holding fine. A couple of aftermarket nuts don't hold worth anything, the rest loosen up a little. I am nervous about a jam nut -- It seems to me that if one nut backs off so fast, two will back off equally fast. I'm also trying to get this problem under control before I burn up my manifold gasket with blow-by or warp the manifold beyond repair.
I am nervous about a jam nut -- It seems to me that if one nut backs off so fast, two will back off equally fast. I'm also trying to get this problem under control before I burn up my manifold gasket with blow-by or warp the manifold beyond repair.
nut - split washer - nut
Something doesn't make sense to me. Torquing down exhaust manifold nuts or header nuts is not rocket science. You torque them down, recheck, retorque if necessary, recheck... if the nuts are coming loose, they are not properly torqued, or the gasket is failing or burning.
I wish. People have tried split washers on this manifold before, but they lose their temper and become useless within a few miles.No, it's not rocket science, but you omitted to mention new hardware. Based on the discussion in this thread, and my experience with "new-ifying" some of my nuts, the evidence is pretty conclusive at this point that I need to get new hardware or it won't stay tight. Everybody says to replace those nuts after each use, and they are least on use #4 (not counting numerous retightenings)The only remaining question is: will new nuts be sufficient, or do the studs wear out as well? I want to fix this once and fix it right, but I don't want to fix things that don't need it.
Id pull the studs, chase them with a tap to clean them up, replace with new studs and hardware.
You mean chase the studs with a die, or chase the holes with a tap? I am confused... Besides, aren't the studs supposed to be out-of-round to hold the nuts on better? I would think chasing them would change that.
i meant what i said. get new studs. most oem studs/bolts are TTY, meaning one time use. and why would a stud be out of round. thatd mean 2 points of contact opposed to the whole surface. they hold by pressue (torque)
Also there are two different styles of nuts. One has a split section o the end. The other looks more like a standard flange nut that has been squished to be a lock nut. You want the one with the split section on the tail.
.......... super-bling stud and nut kit from 22RE performance. I don't want to pay super-bling prices and 22RE performance shipping rates just to get 8 nuts... That would end up like $70, or nearly $9/nut!
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