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Didn’t a couple of experts here say the valve lash doesn’t go “tight”?
What’s the tolerance for valve lash? 0.001 is pretty tight and that appears to be what you think the difference was.
Just got into work, and I have to say the drivability difference is shocking. Stop signs I can take off in second now with smooth acceleration (after the slowest of roll-throughs ) and in general there is just way more of that low-end grunt that I am supposed to be feeling. Idle is great now, 750 rpm and smooth as butter. The shifter used to just shake like crazy at idle and now it's rock solid. Definitely seeming like there was a miss down there.So, I would have to say, to anyone with a 261C that they aren't liking - double check that valve lash and set it at 007/009.I suppose if I was really motivated I could go back in and set all the valves tight and see if the bad behavior comes back, but, meh, i've got other things to do.
So theoretically with a new head, valves and seats, if the valve face squishes down into the valve seat, wouldn't that make the valve lash tighter? Gnarls.
SIDE NOTE: I love how fast the engnbldr guys respond to emails. It always within an hour or two.
Correct!Also turning the key backwards was not the trick.Is it running again?
sorry but you are missing the mark a bit.
Setting them at .007 and .009 is okay but no tighter than that. Being too loose is just as bad as being too tight.
Hey 79coyotefrg,I quit smok'n about 50 years ago. But, at my age any mistake I make I have any number of excuses!I got my quick calculations from LCE's site:Stage 2 Cam - $199.95Pro Camshaft Kit - $278.00 (highly recommended by LCE) only recommended for cams over .450 lift that rev over 6000rpm on a regular basisRocker Arms - 34.95 x 8 = 279.60 (without the rack - LCE will not warranty the cam without these)Sales Tax 7.85% = $59.47 Shipping $75.00 (guessimate)Estimated Total: $ 892.00 I rounded it up to $900 in my head.Gnarls.
my apologies guys I misread your post, I thought you had set them at .001
Have you been able to calculate any accurate gas mileage?
... but I think there is a big improvement. I feel like I got a few extra days before needing to fill up.
With the 22R/RE it's all about tweaking the "tune". If you want to, you can play with ignition timing a little and fuel octane and get a butt-dyno feel.Gnarls.
There is some value in a butt dyno, but placebo is also a strong force. When I had my 2000 SS Camaro it was fast. I test drove one of the supercharged Mustangs and it had some a smooth power curve that it didn’t feel as fast as my Camaro but was proven to be superior. The Mustang held a constant rate of acceleration while my Camaro increased the rate of acceleration all the way to the fuel cutoff. The butt dyno was wrong in this case.
While agree that impressions felt by a driver can be wrong, they can also be profoundly different and more accurate in feeling performance gains on the track that the incredibly accurate engine dyno data could not produce. Ask Ted at engnbldr about his experience with engine dyno data and then with that same engine driven in a NASCAR Sprint Car and the driver’s “butt-dyno” comments… or the results on the clock.There is an incredible amount of accurate data collected and reported by the technology installed in a NASCAR vehicle, but if Kyle Bush, Martin Truex Jr., or Brad Keselowski tells their Crew Chief to make a change to their car based on their “butt-dyno”, what do you think will happen?You compared your Camaro to a blown Mustang. How was the Mustang “proven to be superior”?My comment was simply to say that while testing and tuning, and in the absence of a chassis dyno or engine dyno to test the actual changes, most of us go by our gut feeling and physical senses.Would you argue that andykrow’s recent experience with his valve lash setting is a placebo effect?Or how about H8PVMNT’s ongoing and lengthy butt-dyno testing… are his experiences a placebo effect or does his experience have a degree of accuracy and real change.Most of the changes and results I have done to my engines, dating back to my 5 years of racing go-karts, with engines that were built and dyno tested by my good friend and competitor, and one of the best McCulloch go-kart engine builders of his time, and he had a room full of 1st Place Trophies to prove it, has been because of what I felt after making a change.Since my 1964 283 CU Chevy Malibu, thru two 327-powered Corvettes, 8 years and 3 sand rails, while hang’n with some the best engine builders around, including a few racing legends, most of the changes I personally experienced with my own vehicles can be easily proven by a huge library of data and history by every automotive expert on the planet…. that backs up my butt-dyno.That’s just my opinion – it may be worthless.Gnarls.
UPDATE 12-4-17I hope to have the exhaust back on and the shifters in and driving my truck by the end of the week. I will re-adjust the valve lash again. And because I’ve had the rocker cover off several times I will replace the gasket and grommets. I noticed the grommets that came with the DNJ parts from engnbldr have split out the rubber part between the two washers.I’m not sure why? I have never seen a rocker cover grommet do that. I may have over-tightened the acorn nuts, but I was very careful about that – and bestgen cautioned me on that regarding my “noise”. I ordered a Beck Arnley set from RockAuto, and I noticed the BA grommets are heavier than the DNJ grommets by .2 oz.I’ll know more after I install the new Beck Arnley grommets. Interestingly, the Beck Arnley label says they are “made in Japan”. Gnarls.
Goodness, That first set must have been from engine builder? I've said it before and I will say it again. Don't use their gasket set. Also indicates to Me that the valve cover bolts must have been overtightened.I have a good feeling about your engine tick. I think it will be gone, I hope.
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