Topic: Short block swap or Timing Kit? Need opinions!!

[Jagdverband44]

Hi all,

  My 22re has been missing and idling rough the whole time I have owned the vehicle and I have come to the conclusion that the problem does not lie in the EFI system. I have checked every sensor and spec in the system and it all checked out.

  My chain tensioner makes tapping noise upon startup prior to oil getting to it and once warmed up there is a "whisper" sound coming from the timing cover from 1000-1300 rpm. I know that the R engines run low oil pressure at idle ( mine is in between the two marks on the quarter line at idle and below half at higher rpm). If oil pressure is too low, it will not engage the tensioner all the way and slack the chain, causing the timing to be erratic and a miss, especially at idle.

  Is there a way to install the tensioner backwards, or in a way to cause it to malfunction? I am thinking that whoever built the short block (Allegiant Auto Machine in Fresno, if any of you know who they are?) ground the crank to small and miscalculated the size of bearings needs to fit it causing an oil pressure drop. I don't want to risk doing a chain, and oil pump to have the same problem, so I was going to source a nice low mileage Factory short block and put my RV head on with a new oil pump and timing kit. Let me know what you think.

[Jagdverband44 [OP]]

Gonna short block it, no replies. Forum ain't what it used to be

[yotaneck13]

the tensioner can only be put on one way it my bolt up backwards but the timing cover will not go on if its backwards.

[Jagdverband44 [OP]]

What about the oil pump seal? If it was botched it would be doing the same thing. Neck, where is your oil pressure at idle on the gauge?

[yotaneck13]

my truck didnt have a guage i had a aftermarket one and i was right around 15psi after it was warmed up at idle.  under power i would run 50 to 70 psi.  as for the seal i cant see that being put on wrong unless you absolutly have no idea what your doing,  all it is is an oring that sits in a groove between the pump and timing cover.  now the seal on the crank is in the front of your pump housing and if it was bad then i would think youd have oil leaking from the front of your crank

[Jagdverband44 [OP]]

I spoke with Ted at Engnbldr and he confirmed my suspicion of a poorly built engine. For every .001'' there is a 10 psi loss in pressure. All it would take to screw a crank up would be an untrained eye and then an idiot to mismatch bearing sizes. I though it was the crank too, but he said sometimes oil pump relief valves get stuck. This engine seemed frankenstein to me and I went out and picked up a good, used 22r out of a 2wd gardener truck and will be using the bottom end from it with my Street RV head and cheater cam. The thing is really dirty but was behind an automatic and once cleaned it should run forever so I'm exited about it.

  Any wheelers in San Mateo County with a space to do this swap at? My so called friend is being weird about me working at the place where we have always built things in Pacifica.

[ascdub]

Hey im in san bruno hit me up. Im doin a motorfix rite now my tensioner took a crap and motor jumped time andbent all my intake valves. Also just picked up some gears so rebuilding my front axle too.