Author Topic: brake question.  (Read 4408 times)

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blackxlava

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brake question.
« on: Feb 09, 2011, 09:44:09 PM »
well I've decide to re run, and replace my brake lines, and componets. i want to run IFS calipers in the front, with the solid axle calipers in the rear. as far as master cylinder id like to run a 1" fj80 style. I'm going to use a purporting valve instead of the LSPV. my question is, what size line should i run, along with does anyone know the stock fitting sizes to the master cylinder, the IFS calipers, and the solid axle calipers? should i double flare the line ends or bubble flare?

if anyone can point me in a direction id appreciate it!

yotaneck13

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #1 on: Feb 10, 2011, 09:01:18 AM »
when you pull your old line off save att the fittings and reuse them on the new line the line needs to be an inverted buble flare and 5/16 in size
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BoG-ToY

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #2 on: Feb 10, 2011, 09:09:31 AM »
you know you may consider running a tacoma brake kit if you are buying all new parts?  get 96 4runner calipers and rotors? It will take more research, and if you buy the bolt on brackets from front range off road fab its some more money there, but its set up to not use wheel spacers, and run IFS wheel hubs.

either way if you ever break a birf, or just need to change out your front diff, you dont have to mess with wheel bearings OR knuckle bearings, no cone washers at all... just pull your calipers, your rotors, and unbolt the full spindle/hub from the knuckle (this is possible with the slip off rotors)

biggest thing is lots of research if you go that route
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

blackxlava [OP]

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #3 on: Feb 10, 2011, 09:31:56 PM »
when you pull your old line off save att the fittings and reuse them on the new line the line needs to be an inverted buble flare and 5/16 in size
thanks for the info, id like to keep some of the original stuff, but its all rusted together and stripped sadly.

 
you know you may consider running a Tacoma brake kit if you are buying all new parts?  get 96 4runner calipers and rotors? It will take more research, and if you buy the bolt on brackets from front range off road fab its some more money there, but its set up to not use wheel spacers, and run IFS wheel hubs.

either way if you ever break a birf, or just need to change out your front diff, you dont have to mess with wheel bearings OR knuckle bearings, no cone washers at all... just pull your calipers, your rotors, and unbolt the full spindle/hub from the knuckle (this is possible with the slip off rotors)

biggest thing is lots of research if you go that route

please tell me more, Ive never really heard of this. what exactly would i look up? just swapping to IFS hubs to a solid axle? i didn't realize that they are THAT different. i was looking to upgrade everything, and ha vent seen anything about using a Tacoma brake kit

BoG-ToY

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Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

BoG-ToY

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #5 on: Feb 10, 2011, 09:40:14 PM »
ok, I cannot find pictures, BUT its basically the same theory as running the IFS wheel hubs with fj60 rotors, bolting to the other side of the ears on the knuckle, BUT you gotta run a 1/4 inch spacer I think?

also, you can run IFS calipers from what Ive heard, BUT if you dont have IFS calipers, get the 96 4runner calipers as I think they run the same flare fitting?
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

blackxlava [OP]

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #6 on: Feb 10, 2011, 09:50:18 PM »
that bracket set looks really good.  or the thought behind it. getting 96 runner calipers and rotors would probably look better/work better than just ifs calipers and fj60 rotors. its something ill be looking more into

yotaneck13

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #7 on: Feb 11, 2011, 11:49:31 AM »
then when you go to get your line take the old fitting with you so they give you the right ones...and when you pull the pittings out look at the flare this will show you what the inverted bubble flare looks like
RNR FABRICATION ON THE EAST COAST!!! rightnowracingfabrication@gmail.com (814)-516-5176 like us on facebook www.facebook.com/rnrfab
R.I.P Derek James Black 1995-2010 I miss you BUD! :sad2: 81 4wd wheelable 20r ifs rear welded on 33's goes amazing
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BoG-ToY

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #8 on: Feb 11, 2011, 11:54:15 AM »
well, they  are heavier duty parts all around, but one of the biggest things is that set lets you pull apart your front end easier.

NOW I dont really like the spacers for the non FROR conversion or having to figure out weird bolt configurations, BUT I also dont like that for the FROR conversion, you lose the Dust seal/mud gunk seal that sits on the outside of the wheel hub
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

blackxlava [OP]

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #9 on: Feb 11, 2011, 12:30:09 PM »
then when you go to get your line take the old fitting with you so they give you the right ones...and when you pull the pittings out look at the flare this will show you what the inverted bubble flare looks like

yeah i was going to dig one out and take the fitting with me, and i know what a bubble flare looks like, ive fun lines before at work, just no idea what my toyota had off the top of my head.

yotaneck13

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #10 on: Feb 11, 2011, 03:13:25 PM »
ok just wanted to make sure so you didnt waste ur time and money flaring all of them only to have made the wrong flares
RNR FABRICATION ON THE EAST COAST!!! rightnowracingfabrication@gmail.com (814)-516-5176 like us on facebook www.facebook.com/rnrfab
R.I.P Derek James Black 1995-2010 I miss you BUD! :sad2: 81 4wd wheelable 20r ifs rear welded on 33's goes amazing
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blackxlava [OP]

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #11 on: Feb 11, 2011, 05:04:18 PM »
ok just wanted to make sure so you didnt waste ur time and money flaring all of them only to have made the wrong flares

haha been there before. Ran the wrong sized line for the fittings.. Oops!

yotaneck13

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #12 on: Feb 11, 2011, 09:57:01 PM »
haha hate to say this but ive flared the line to put on a car at work and been so excited that it was a perfect flare only to find out i forgot to put the fitting on the line :down: :headslap:
RNR FABRICATION ON THE EAST COAST!!! rightnowracingfabrication@gmail.com (814)-516-5176 like us on facebook www.facebook.com/rnrfab
R.I.P Derek James Black 1995-2010 I miss you BUD! :sad2: 81 4wd wheelable 20r ifs rear welded on 33's goes amazing
"THE GENERAL" My build-on the backburner http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=63519.0


I make more money that you, my wife is hotter than yours, my thingy is bigger than yours

BoG-ToY

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #13 on: Feb 12, 2011, 09:24:18 PM »
OK, so from what Ive found out, if you are going to use the FROR kit, you HAVE TO HAVE THE 4th gen 4runner calipers, if you are wanting to run spacers on the stock knuckle ears, you will need IFS calipers possibly machined for the right clearance for the TACOMA ROTOR
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

blackxlava [OP]

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #14 on: Feb 12, 2011, 09:47:38 PM »
that sounds like a LOT of hassle.. i was just going to grab 3rd gen front hubs, calipers, rotors and the FROR kit, and kinda expect it all to bolt up.

this news is kind of a let down. :thumbdown:

BoG-ToY

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #15 on: Feb 12, 2011, 10:30:44 PM »
get IFS hubs
get fror kit
get 96 4runner rotors and calipers
possibly ask FROR if they can sell you READY TO RUN IFS hubs?

you will need wheel bearings for the new IFS hubs, either your used bearings and races or new ones, and a new seal.
fror kit is EASIEST way to go, theres two calipers sitting at my local junkyard could probably get FAIRLY cheap? and one like new rotor... lol

best thing to do would be to contact FROR, and ask if they could sell you ready to run IFS wheel hubs with the kit, then you would just need to source calipers rotors and wheel bearings
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

blackxlava [OP]

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #16 on: Feb 13, 2011, 05:58:10 PM »
so 86-95 ifs hubs, fror kit, and rotors and calipers from a 96-02 4runner. easy enough of a shopping list to take to pick n pull

what where you saying about the dust seal? like the rotor backing plate? or is there a rubber seal im losing doing this conversion?

BoG-ToY

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #17 on: Feb 13, 2011, 06:03:51 PM »
yeah, I will find you a picture, its only a seal to a seal though, kinda redundant but not?

and you have to grind down the IFS hubs (I was just gonna put it in gear with a grinder carefully but Im crazy)   see the FROR link
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

BoG-ToY

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #18 on: Feb 13, 2011, 06:07:48 PM »
I think you lose the ability to run THIS seal, but all this seal does is keep the junk off the wheel seal, AND theres a DRAIN in the spindle... so its kinda weird there too?  like its a seal, but its not because it seals and area that has an open hole, guess they figure its not a real seal
http://www.4x4world.com.au/images/products/9031393011.jpg

 
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

blackxlava [OP]

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #19 on: Feb 13, 2011, 06:36:05 PM »
i was thinking a dremel or a flap disc.  and i thought it was a seal to the bearings on the back side, i have no real idea what or why that seal is there. maybe to seal off the birdfield joint?

BoG-ToY

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #20 on: Feb 13, 2011, 07:00:40 PM »
no, it keeps heavy grit off the wheel seal, if you wheel sand or junk its a good thing to have, I think your gonna need a little more then a flap disc, I was going to hook the IFS hub to a front end... and spin it in like second gear idle or better... and hit it with an angle grinder
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

blackxlava [OP]

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #21 on: Feb 13, 2011, 07:32:18 PM »
hah, well sands all i got. so i need to find a way to get it on there. and thats a good idea.. i might be able to access a metal lathe though, but well see what happens

blackxlava [OP]

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #22 on: Feb 13, 2011, 10:00:21 PM »
hey was doing a little research of swapping ifs hubs onto my straight axle and was readding i needed to run something like this. http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/products/TOYOTA-INNER-HUB-GEAR.html

what do you think?

BoG-ToY

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #23 on: Feb 13, 2011, 10:20:54 PM »
keep your SFA LOCKOUT... the chrome body with the black face and red dial, will bolt onto the IFS WHEEL HUB
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

BoG-ToY

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Re: brake question.
« Reply #24 on: Feb 13, 2011, 10:29:35 PM »
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/images/used_parts_023_main.jpg?osCsid=7e00a70eac5bb6e7d06318ff9ffbde71


you need THIS part from an IFS truck, cut down to look like this (see how its round on the outside (this isnt critical in size or shape as I believe the rotor is HUB centric)
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/images/brakes/tacoma-007.jpg

you want to keep THESE, from your solid front axle, then you dont need that gear pictured above
http://www.marlincrawler.com/images/locking_hub_500.jpg


Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

 
 
 
 
 

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