Author Topic: 84 clutch/ tranny pulling (Read 2498 times)

blacksheep312 · « **on:** Dec 05, 2009, 05:15:45 PM »

I just noticed that when driving, if I have it in gear, usually there is no pull till I let the clutch grab the gear, then if I push the clutch back in, I can feel the vehicle pulling in what ever gear its in. It also makes it hard to dis-engage from the gear afterwords, especially on an incline! Is this the clutch?

Anything I can adjust to fix this?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 05, 2009, 05:32:58 PM »

what are you refering to pulling? as in an alignment pull or power?

blacksheep312 · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 05, 2009, 07:54:02 PM »

Power, sorry, I can feel the truck pulling forward at a stop if Im in 1st, or Reverse, and i lift off the clutch just enough to grab, then push the clutch all the way back down again, and the truck still pulls slightly still in gear, then when I try to dis engage the gear, its harder because of the momentum of the gear still being used pulling the truck forward or backwards.

Does that make sense?

84pickup · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 06, 2009, 07:37:30 AM »

sounds like you might need a new Master/Slave Cylinder.

Nihal · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 06, 2009, 08:07:28 AM »

Replaceing the clutch fluid with new fluid and bleeding worked for me, as I had the same problem a few years back after I had replaced my clutch assy. Good luck

blacksheep312 · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 06, 2009, 02:18:20 PM »

I bleed the entire brake and clutch system, and it took about 2 qts to fully flush it out. Driver side caliper would not bleed, removed the valve, and a slow drip, hit it with a hammer and boosted my Power Brake Bleeder to 20 PSI, and it shot out. The Driver rear drum I could not get to break loose, will have to rebuild it some other time. Bleed through the feeder line to clear it out, and lubricate the bleeder valve about 10 times, to breakt the dirt inside loose, but now luck.

The clutch and brake fluid were darker then used motor oil! Its all clean now. Will take it for a test drive soon after I eat lunch. Then I am back at her again to replace the front & rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid, even though the rear is leaking at the drive flange, I will have to get that fixed down the road. I have a trip I am trying to make up to the mountains soon!

I'm also driving about 120 miles tomm. for a good clean out of the fuel and carb. Going to run a bottle of Sea Foam through the fuel system. Just changed out the fuel filter, I want to really shine her up inside now! Lots to do.......

blacksheep312 · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 06, 2009, 06:23:40 PM »

Took the truck for a spin, and the clutch still in gear, not as bad, but its still there. I wonder if I need to replace the Slave or the Master?

Nihal · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 07, 2009, 06:27:23 AM »

Happy to hear of the improvement

how is the clutch pedal free play?

Check and adjust if need to 1/4". If still not working, then you will need to replace your cylinders if their is pitting inside or just the piston/washers if both cylinders are good and no pitting inside(this is what we do over here)

Or replace both cylinders like said before

blacksheep312 · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 08, 2009, 12:03:00 AM »

I drove all the way from San Diego passed LA, and back today, and it still pulls. I have not tried adjusting, but will take a look at it in a few days. I might take the cylinders apart and have a look. What kind of pitting am I looking for?

I need to take it in soon and get the rear axle seal replaced. I think I might have a shop give me a diagnostic of the vehicle and tell me what I need to replace.

Nihal · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 08, 2009, 08:58:01 AM »

Hi,
Be ready to get new sets of washers for both cylinders before you take them apart because you will have to replace them in the least or both cylinders in a extreme case.

Check cylinder bore for roughness and / or very small craters, if so replace with new cylinder with all new piston/washer kit.
I dont know how the parts are sold over there but I know

units are complete with piston /washers.

If your old fluid was black it is very likely that it had water and also perished washers, so pitting would have taken place depending on how long the water would have been in there.

Hope all goes well for you and you get it fixed soon

Nihal

blacksheep312 · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 08, 2009, 02:10:59 PM »

I could do that, or just replace them for both entirely for 80 bucks.

~~http://www.trail-gear.com/clutch.html~~

The fluid looks like it may have never been flushed!

Nihal · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 08, 2009, 09:14:11 PM »

Hi,
Yes your right, better replace both and be done with it and remember to check the pedal free play when fixing both master cylinders.

Sure the choice is yours as to where you buy it from.
Nihal

blacksheep312 · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 09, 2009, 08:22:44 AM »

I will check the free play soon, and post an update, thanks for ur help

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #13 on:** Dec 11, 2009, 10:27:19 AM »

Quote from: blacksheep312 on Dec 08, 2009, 02:10:59 PM

I could do that, or just replace them for both entirely for 80 bucks.

http://www.trail-gear.com/clutch.html

The fluid looks like it may have never been flushed!

perhaps you should be asking these questions on their forum instead of Marlins