Author Topic: No Break Pressure....  (Read 2251 times)

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95SAS

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No Break Pressure....
« on: Apr 28, 2008, 06:23:55 PM »
Ok this is realy starting to tick me off, ive bled my breaks 3 times and still every time i hop in my truck the pedal goes straight to the floor. im starting to think its my master cylider but im not 100% sure. Any imput would be nice. Thanks  :beer:


btw if it helps is an 86 excab 22re automatic
1986 extracab, SAS 38.5's Locked Duals, truggyfied, beadlocks
1988 2wd bagged and body dropped 3'' with a healthy 22r....

my build
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=35602.0

Duffil

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #1 on: Apr 28, 2008, 06:30:58 PM »
can you pump them up or is it just dead? how are you bleeding them, and in what order are you bleeding them?

I say gravity bleed it.  and make sure of the order you bleed. start at the wheel furthest from the master, and work your way down.  Don't forget the LSPV.

95SAS [OP]

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #2 on: Apr 28, 2008, 06:46:39 PM »
i can pump them and they work, i blead the way the hayes bood says, i bleed the lspv aswell.  so i either have a spot were its allowing air to get into the system or my master cylinder took a dump.
1986 extracab, SAS 38.5's Locked Duals, truggyfied, beadlocks
1988 2wd bagged and body dropped 3'' with a healthy 22r....

my build
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=35602.0

93tonkatoy

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #3 on: Apr 28, 2008, 06:57:02 PM »
Get someone to help you. Have them pump up the brakes, with the engine off, and hold pressure on the pedal. visually inspect the brake lines for any leaks (will leak somewhere, if it is allowing air back in.) If the pedal does not drop while it is being held, you have a large bubble in the system somewhere. Gravity bleeding works good. Make SURE that you do not drain the reservoir dry at any time while you are bleeding, or you will have to start over. (been there, done that :shhh:)
It ain't worth doin' if you don't have to clean up afterwards!

Build it, break it, fix it, repeat until your wallet is empty.

I shall infuse thy Jeep with the Essence of Toyota...and maybe that one won't pee on itself at the first sight of granite. - Duffil

SAVE TELLICO post 491

95SAS [OP]

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #4 on: Apr 28, 2008, 07:18:07 PM »
how do i gravity bleed it? Thanks
1986 extracab, SAS 38.5's Locked Duals, truggyfied, beadlocks
1988 2wd bagged and body dropped 3'' with a healthy 22r....

my build
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=35602.0

93tonkatoy

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  • drive it till it breaks! then break out the tools.
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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #5 on: Apr 28, 2008, 07:59:46 PM »
Fill the reservoir, then open the first bleeder till you get  fluid running out (do not pump pedal, the fluid will start draining on it's own). when it starts coming through steady, no stops and starts (bubbles coming out) then close the bleeder. Refill the res., and move to the next wheel. Repeat for each wheel and the LSPV. (the first rear wheel will have to run a little longer - long brake line.) After bleeding all of them, refill the res., and check your pedal. It should be solid, or nearly solid. You may have to "force bleed" each wheel once, but probably not.
« Last Edit: Apr 28, 2008, 08:07:27 PM by 93tonkatoy »
It ain't worth doin' if you don't have to clean up afterwards!

Build it, break it, fix it, repeat until your wallet is empty.

I shall infuse thy Jeep with the Essence of Toyota...and maybe that one won't pee on itself at the first sight of granite. - Duffil

SAVE TELLICO post 491

CTENG in KS

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #6 on: Apr 28, 2008, 08:04:10 PM »
New calipers?

If so, you don't have them bled enough.  Open up the caliper bleeders and pump some fluid through them, then do the bleeding process.
IFS is best kept at ambient temperature in a pile of scrap in the backyard.  When kept under a functioning vehicle, it tends to greatly diminish said vehicle's offroad ability.     -reklund5

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OOPS

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #7 on: Apr 28, 2008, 08:14:59 PM »
Quote
hayes bood

I do not know how Hayes says but the FSM says longest line to shorest then the LSPV.

Drivers side rear

Passenger side rear

Passenger side front

Drivers side front

LSPV
David & Theresa Fritzsche, 1990 Ex-Cab with a few mods!!!!!!!!! Roseville, CA Sobriety =Serenity

jimbo74

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #8 on: Apr 28, 2008, 08:27:41 PM »
Drivers side rear

Passenger side rear

Passenger side front

Drivers side front

LSPV

:werd:
:usa:

The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. And one path we shall never choose, and that is the path of surrender, or submission.

~ John F. Kennedy ~

95SAS [OP]

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #9 on: Apr 29, 2008, 08:28:35 AM »
Ok so LSPV last, ive been doing it first, let me go try this agian.
1986 extracab, SAS 38.5's Locked Duals, truggyfied, beadlocks
1988 2wd bagged and body dropped 3'' with a healthy 22r....

my build
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=35602.0

DTB

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #10 on: Apr 29, 2008, 08:36:31 AM »




You misspelled "brakes" btw  :hahaha:
RIP KYOTA
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toyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

*ROKTOY*

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #11 on: Apr 29, 2008, 11:50:43 AM »
If you switched over to the v6 style caliper, you might need a new heavy duty master cylinder. Just my  :twocents:

Duffil

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #12 on: Apr 29, 2008, 01:25:04 PM »




You misspelled "brakes" btw  :hahaha:
this is not yotatech DTB please be informed you are hereby warned and another offense will result in a ban. :talkingn:

95SAS [OP]

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #13 on: Apr 29, 2008, 09:36:44 PM »
haha, no im still running the stock 85 calipers. i need to switch over to the v6ers... anyways im going to pull the master cylinder off and throw a new one on and see what happens. thanks for all the help guys.
1986 extracab, SAS 38.5's Locked Duals, truggyfied, beadlocks
1988 2wd bagged and body dropped 3'' with a healthy 22r....

my build
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=35602.0

DTB

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #14 on: Apr 30, 2008, 08:18:20 AM »
this is not yotatech DTB please be informed you are hereby warned and another offense will result in a ban. :talkingn:
PLEASE, please ban me and putme out of my misery!!!!! :down:

I stole that diagram from OOPS, one of the mods on here hehe
RIP KYOTA
Quote
toyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

1stgenboy

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #15 on: Apr 30, 2008, 09:21:28 AM »
Sounds like a master cylinder problem to me...Sometimes when you push the pistons of the calipers in it pushes a bunch of rust and shite up into the master cylinder which in turn ruins the residual pressure valve and the cup seal in the master.  That is why I open the bleeder and then push in the caliper piston.

Randy

OOPS

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #16 on: Apr 30, 2008, 10:30:41 AM »
this is not yotatech DTB please be informed you are hereby warned and another offense will result in a ban. :talkingn:
Myself I do not see anything wrong with what he posted, he corrected the spelling of "brakes" whats the big deal?
David & Theresa Fritzsche, 1990 Ex-Cab with a few mods!!!!!!!!! Roseville, CA Sobriety =Serenity

tlcruiser66

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Re: No Break Pressure....
« Reply #17 on: May 02, 2008, 01:39:31 AM »
What did you replace in your brake system?
I don't want to sound like a smartass but i've seen way too many people mount the calipers on the wrong sides, make sure you're bleeder valves are at the tops of the caliper.
Also, when you replace your master cylinder, make sure you bleed it properly before you attempt to bleed your system out.  You can either benchbleed or bleed it after installation, but make sure it's done first and then start bleeding at the wheels.

 
 
 
 
 

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