Topic: custom 4 link

[toylife]

i have heard that if u weld on a rear that u need to empty it out. this is what th eold timers havetold me. not to heat up the gear oil. i have built a custom 4 link on my street truck but need to weld it to the rear. what is the truth? olso i like to arc weld on my trucks for good firm welds what rods do you suggest? 6013, 6011 please excuse the typos i broke my finger at work it is a little hard to type with one hand.

[TIMS89CRAWLER]

6013 is the best bet if your a good arc welder..... i would still say mig though... just as strong if you are a good welder and much faster and cleaner of a weld as well... just my 2 cents.... as far as the gear oil thing i have been hearing that for years but i never empty them out and i havent ruined one yet??? maybe im lucky huh?

[DeadlyPeace]

The main problem is the gear oil getting too hot and ruining the seals. You also don't want to heat the axle up too much either cuz you can warp it.

[TacoRunner]

The only problem I've seen and know of from personal experience is that if its empty you will most likley warp the mounting flange of the third member. Then you have oil leaks and yad yad yad.

[booger weldz]

6013 is the WORST choice, it is a low penetration rod good for down hand sheet metal welds and definitely not structural welding on your suspension, etc!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Doof]

if you can manage and still havent done this yet i would rock 7018. super easy to weld, just crank it up and make your bead. and i will just assume you have welded many things before and dont need to be told to do it in sections, expecially with SMAW and 7018 since it burns so hot... i would say do 1" beads and just run a bead on the right side, then run a side on the left, and back to right and so on... and tack it all around so it doesnt move....

post pics when your done also