Author Topic: What is the cheapest way to get rid of the ADD?  (Read 5815 times)

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Darrin530

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What is the cheapest way to get rid of the ADD?
« on: Oct 16, 2007, 10:47:50 PM »
The Cheapest I've found to get rid of the Automatic diff disconnect was the off road solutions kit (roughly 1000$).  Any cheaper Ideas (no, i don't have the money to SAS my runner)
3RD Gen 4runner 5VZ-FE R150f

iNfErNaL

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A D D?.I think there's medication for it,I'll ask my wife she's in the medical field.
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Oh that explains allot Infernal

iNfErNaL

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What?  :dunno:
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Darrin530 [OP]

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thank you. I appreciate your help.
3RD Gen 4runner 5VZ-FE R150f

topar

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Your wife's in the med field  :lipsrsealed:

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Sorry man just had to give him a hard time when I read that one.  I cant help you I run a Chevy drive train in mine. back to your regularly scheduled ? now

854RUN

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here you go this tells you how to do it  :biggthumpup:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
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The Cheapest I've found to get rid of the Automatic diff disconnect was the off road solutions kit (roughly 1000$).  Any cheaper Ideas (no, i don't have the money to SAS my runner)
Why would you want to? Personally I love it for my DD.

Darrin530 [OP]

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Yeah it's nice but iv'e heard horror stories about getting stuck in 2wd and sometimes it won't engage without rolling a little bit
3RD Gen 4runner 5VZ-FE R150f

BruceTS

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Strange? never had an issue with the system going into 4WD. Why would you want to switch to the manual hub set-up? it's a much weaker design.... Besides you'd need to swap out the axle tube attached to the diff as well, that's where the ADD coupler is located. Most who do the swap leave the coupler. Personally I have everything to do the conversion and will eventually get around to it, mainly to save wear on the front ARB diff o-rings.
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DTB

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Strange? never had an issue with the system going into 4WD.
i have. had to walk a few miles barefoot and it sucked....(dont ask why i was wheeling barefoot)
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BruceTS

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Unless you couldn't spin your rear wheels, there is no reason a properly operating ADD coupler would not engage, no need for the front wheels to even turn.
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ToYocRawleR

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i'll give you a non ADD front diff and then you need yourself some locking hubs and ta da!
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Just kidding man. I guess there is, its your bed

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potential source of failure - vacuum, electrical, or sleeve failures are possible


here is a good article to read

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
RIP KYOTA
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Darrin530 [OP]

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thanks to all of you, but I think I got in a little too deep of water. I underestimated the labor.
3RD Gen 4runner 5VZ-FE R150f

hudlenutz

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Sweet locking hub conversion:   :king:


The diff is even on the correct side. :eyebrow:

hudlenutz

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Seriously though, the only justifiable reason to put manual hubs on the later models is to reduce cv wear from over-ambitious ifs lifts.  If more than 2-2.5" is needed it's time to consider other options (diff drop, TC, SAS, or custom cv's).  IMHO, manual hubs only extend the fuse on your abused ifs time-bomb. 

That said, if the lift is mild, you should be able to wheel without any problems.

 
 
 
 
 

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