Topic: measuring crankshaft end play

[toeyota]

The feeler gauge set i have starts at .008 and ends at .26. I dont guess i understand how you check the end play with a feeler guage. The book calls for .02 to .20. Now i know i probably dont have the right set of feeler gauges, but i dont think i could fit the thinnest of gauges inbetween the thrust bearing and the crank.
 
Also one more thing, my rod caps arent in correct order from front to back. I think it goes from the first cylinder; 2341. As far as i can tell the motor hasnt been into? Is this normal by any chance? Thanks.

[Willy Mammoth]

I guess the .02 to .20 is metric (mm).

Most feeler gauges have both metric and inches. If not you can use a conversion to figure it out.

http://www.worldwidemetric.com/metcal.htm

You need to use a screw driver and coax the crank to front or back. Then check to see how much clearance you have.

As far as the rods being in the wrong position, Are you sure the marking is the rod /cyl number? Where on the rod is the number?

[toeyota [OP]]

Thanks for the link. I think i found my problem as far as the procedure goes, i was thinking you had to get the feeler gauge down in between the actuall thrust washer, and the crank. But after studying the manual i see where it says to put the correct size feeler gauge between the #3 cap and the crank, after the crank is pushed toward the front of the motor.
 
The numbers on the rod caps are between the two 2 cap bolts/nuts. I guess someone has been into this motor at some point, kinda scary to know what else isnt right, if they couldnt even get the rod caps in the correct order. Have a feeling im going to need a crank kit or have my crank turned with larger bearings, whatever works though i guess.

[Willy Mammoth]

Normaly the rod is numbered on the side of the rod on both sides of the split at the cap and rod.

If you are looking at a number on the bottom of the rod cap it could be the factory bearing size.

They use special bearings to get an exact tolerance. You will never be able to match that with aftermarket bearings. You would have to special order factory sized bearings if you can even do that.

Not that important. If your bearings are not to bad, just get some plasti gauge so you can see how tight they are.

[RN37DD]

i pulled three engines apart and none of the rods were numbered correctly from front to back on the engine. of course these were old style 22r and 20r motors that had been rebuilt before. then when i asked about it at the machine shop. i was told the try to match rod sets  by weight. then they just match up the rod and cap .  they don't try to match it up to a cylinder number in a set.. i think one of the rods i got back wasn't numbered at all.

[toeyota [OP]]

hmm, i see. Thanks for the help. As far as the bearings and oil clearances... I  think you, willy mamoth, read my other post about how my piston and connecting rod "wiggled" at the crankshaft. I can turn the piston clockwise and counterclockwise and the whole piston and rod and cap turns or wiggles in those directions. Could this possibly be badly worn bearings? Hopefully i havnt worn my crank and rod journals to bad. 
 
I guess if i just leave a piston i the block and show the machine shop this they will know how to fix the problem. Only way to know is to get it to them though, cant wait to finally get it machined and cleaned up so i can start putting it together.

[Willy Mammoth]

No, that isn't good. There is a lot of play somewhere. Most likley in the rod bearings, but also could be wrist pins or pistons.

A good mech should be able to pick out any problems easy enough.

It might be a good time for a bore job, all new pistons and fresh crank. Also how is the head? Make sure the cam is not loose in the head or the lobes arn't worn down.

[toeyota [OP]]

Oh yea im having it bored, new pistons and bearing all around. IF need ill have them order a crank kit and i guess new rods also. Maybe its just the bearings and nothing more.
 
Let me ask you this, all that play and slack in those pistons and rods, I shouldnt be worried about having to find a new block should I? Surely the block will be fine, i dont see how any of that could hurt the block bad enough ya know. 
 
Another thing is, the thrust washers seem a little loose down there. That may be normal, this is my first time looking at a 22r bottem end close. They only move a tad bit when im checking end play of the crankshaft. Thanks again for the help, ill keep ya posted on what the machine shop says about all this.
 
The head is comming ported and poslished with over sized valves installed from EB