Topic: SOLD Toyota RC CRAWLER MUST SEE (Bruiser / Mountaineer)

[51504ROCK]

Up for grabs is my Brand new Built Tamiya Bruiser / Mountaineer Toyota RC Crawler.
All custom made with working winch. Custom made bumpers and sliders. Front leaf springs suspension and Rear 4 link. This truck crawler as well as it looks.
Please email me with any questions.
Please NO Trades
SOLD
I accept paypal and US Post Office Money Order
















 

[jimbo74]

another one? that is awesome, how did you get 2 of them? werent you jsut selling a white one?!

[51504ROCK [OP]]

another one? that is awesome, how did you get 2 of them? werent you jsut selling a white one?!

Yep, The white one sold. It was more of a collectors item, this is built for crawling.

[BigMike]

Dude, that is probably the cleanest one I've seen that is setup for Rock Crawling. Excellent work there man, I can only hope that mine turns out that nice!

[BigMike]

What black paint did you use on the bed and the grill?

[51504ROCK [OP]]

What black paint did you use on the bed and the grill?

Hey Mike, Thanks for the complements. The paint on the grill is Tamiya flat black, and on the bed I used spray on bed liner that comes in a spray can at Kragen Auto Parts.

[BigMike]

The paint on the grill is Tamiya flat black

Spray paint, correct? Thanks

[51504ROCK [OP]]

Spray paint, correct? Thanks

Yep, Tamiya Spray Lacquer TS-6 Matte Black 3 oz Spray Can

[86 4runner]

thats hella sweet, but ive bought actual trucks for less than that, lol. looks like fun though

[Shoyrtt]

What are the specs on the running gear? Other than the front springs, it is definitely not stock Tamiya (but VERY nice). 8) 

[51504ROCK [OP]]

What are the specs on the running gear? Other than the front springs, it is definitely not stock Tamiya (but VERY nice). 8) 

Here are some specs on the Rig.

Axles Tamiya TLT-1
Trany Traxxes Stampede
Drive Shafts Traxxes Stampede with steel yokes at axles
55turn Intagey lathe motor
Jr Servos (steering and winch)
Traxxes TQ3 Radio system
Moped ESC
HPI Spike Wheels
HPI Geolander Tires
Tamiya Bruiser Chassis
Tamiya Bruiser Body
Custom made tube Bumpers and Rock sliders
Front Tamiya Leaf springs
Custom 4 link rear
Custom center skid plate / trany mount
Custom made shock mounts
Tamiya TLT-1 Shocks
Custom made Battery Tray (fits any standard 6 cell battery stick pack)
Bruiser Interior with steering wheel and shifter
Spray on bedliner in bed
Custom made body and winch mounts

I'm sure i am forgetting something but that about sums it up.

[51504ROCK [OP]]

Here is a little Video to give you an idea of how much fun and how well these little crawlers work.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-343555499656133956

[BigMike]

I have two more questions

1) How well does the 1/10th scale servo work as a winch motor? I want to run a 210 oz torque 1/4-scale servo and I would like to compare it to yours. May I have the model number of your servo? Do you think if attached to a tree limb, the winch could lift the whole truck off the ground?

2) Teach me how you made the body glossy! I have never painted anything other than spray paint. Did you clear coat your body? Or is there a simple spray-on clear type coat that I can buy?

Thanks man! Your mountaineer is a real inspiration to me!

[51504ROCK [OP]]

I have two more questions

1) How well does the 1/10th scale servo work as a winch motor? I want to run a 210 oz torque 1/4-scale servo and I would like to compare it to yours. May I have the model number of your servo? Do you think if attached to a tree limb, the winch could lift the whole truck off the ground?

2) Teach me how you made the body glossy! I have never painted anything other than spray paint. Did you clear coat your body? Or is there a simple spray-on clear type coat that I can buy?

Thanks man! Your mountaineer is a real inspiration to me!

Hey Mike,
 I think 1/4 scale servo is way over kill. The servos I run work great. I can pull the truck straight up off the ground with no problem. A HiTec 645 servo or any servo like it would work just fine.
 Now painting that can be kind of tuff. It takes practice. I have done several bodies now and i learn somthing new every time. I do NOT use clear coat. I like to use Tamiya spray paint. Tip: soak the cans in hot water for about 5 minutes before use. First i paint the truck with grey primer and let it dry for a day. then I wet sand it smooth with 800-1200 grit. then i hit it with white primer and let it dry for a day. again wet and dry sand with 800-1200 grit. then i hit it again with the grey and let it dry for a day. using the two differant color helps see the the differant coats and helps with sanding. Hard to explane. After i have the body all primed and smooth to my liking i hit it up with very light coats of the color, letting it dry inbetween coats and some times wet sand if i see a bad spot. I apply all the coat untill evenly coated and let it dry and thats about it. they turn out just like you see. If i wanted i could use Tamiya clear to give it a even deeper shine but i think they look great with out the clear.

I hope this helps. don't be afraid to paint it. you can always strip the paint by soaking the body in Brake Fluid. (NOT BRAKE CLEAN!!) BRAKE CLEAN WILL MELT THE PLASTIC.

-Dustin

[AaronB]

so why is it worth so much?

[51504ROCK [OP]]

so why is it worth so much?

This is not just any Rc Truck. This is a Classic Collectible Rc Truck that has been custom built into a Rc Rock Crawler that works as well as it looks. 

[BigMike]

Aaron, the Tamiya Hilux-series was only sold for a couple of years back in the 80s and early 90s. A worn out pile of junk Mountaineer like mine might sell for $400 maybe $500? But a clean Shelf-Queen Mountaineer must go for over $1000. And since this one is Shelf-Clean + Customized for Rock Crawling, I think the price is very reasonable.

Check this out: Tamiya Hilux-series History


Thanks for the tips on the paint. I like the idea of dipping it in something (brake fluid) rather than what I was going to do: Hit it in out glass abrasive machine at a good distance. I am already nervous about this, but people keep telling me "oh just use the glass beeder, it will be just fine!"

But when I see bodies on eBay selling for over $200, I don't want to take any chances.

I will follow your steps when I paint mine. Your paint job looks great. I should be painting mine the first week of June.


Regarding the winch, I've got an extra HiTec 645MG that I am not using. It is rated @ 133oz/in, and my 1/4 scale (Hitec HS-705MG) is rated @ 201oz/in torque.

I prefer to use the smaller servo because I need room to mount some batteries (as I am using 7 full-size C cells @ 5000mah) up under the hood. Also, I know I can modify the 645MG to run continuously, but TURBO told me he tried modifying a 705MG once and he couldn't. So maybe the 645MG is the only way I can go right now.

Are you serious, the 645MG can pick if off the ground? If so then that is awesome. I just want a winch that can kick some serious ass. At 707:1 Crawl Ratio, believe you me, I have gotten the Mountaineer in such a tight bind that you can't even pick it out of the rocks without going into reverse. So I want to make sure my winch will pack a punch

Good luck on selling this. Sorry for hijacking, but at least its getting attention I should post in another thread!

[AaronB]

This is a Classic Collectible Rc Truck  

thats what I thought , but wasn't sure.

[51504ROCK [OP]]

Hey Mike,
 As for using the glass beed NOT a good idea. It will pit and weeken the body. The best way i have found to strip the paint is to soak it in brake fluid. I get a big tub and fill it with cheap brake fluid from wally world. I let the body soad for a day or two them pull it out and us a green scoth pad and scrub off the paint. It takes a cupple of times of soaking and scubbing to get the paint off. Once i have removed to old paint, I just wash off the brake fluid with soap and water, let it dry and start the painting prosses.

 The 645 will work great. just make sure the drum you make for the winch line is small in diamiter. The small drum helps with torque.

Here are some pics of the winch drum i make.

[51504ROCK [OP]]

 Check out this Sweet Video of us RC Crawling Last Weekend

http://youtube.com/watch?v=C1XpsNf_Cfw

[AaronB]

that 4door truck in the video was sweet. whats the specs on it

[51504ROCK [OP]]

that 4door truck in the video was sweet. whats the specs on it

That truck is bassed off the same truck as Mine ( Bruiser / Mountaineer ). He used two bodies and made the 4door cab. That is one sweet ride. Molding two bodies together and making it look that clean is no easy task.

[toyrunner87]

Very sweet looking lil crawler.

[BigMike]

The 645 will work great. just make sure the drum you make for the winch line is small in diamiter. The small drum helps with torque.

Here are some pics of the winch drum i make.

I mounted my winch last night and am very happy with the results. I modified a digital servo (which is strange to do?) and also my TQ3 radio

I was wondering where you are buying a long enough screw do go through the drum and into the servo? I didn't have one, so I built my drum out of aluminum, but I didn't have the proper die and just kinda forced the soft alum. into the steel servo output gear threads. Its pretty weak and I'm afraid of breaking the alum. drum and not being able to extract the stud inside the servo gear

So I was on www.mcmaster.com last night looking around. I am going to measure a bunch of screws that I want to order, and I hope I can find one long enough to go through my drum and that fits my servo.

I was looking around for a small assortment kit of small machine screws, but all I can find are $100+ kits which isn't too appealing to me...

I'll post my pics in my build thread later today hopefully.

Thanks for your help man!

BigMike

[BigMike]

Whoops, forgot to mention your other servo on your red truck.

Where did you get a screw for your servo here? Its perfect for me too. Is that a HiTech servo? I will be measuring my servo bolt (pitch/dia) and will order a very long one if possible.

(also I am using a 1/10 servo for my winch: Hitec HS-645MG / 133.31 oz/in)

Hardware stores in Fresno SUCK. I can NOT find any small metric screws in town. Someone needs to point me in the right direction

[BigMike]

One last question: Any specifics on winch cable? I was going to just go to wall mart and check out their sewing string collection. It would be cool to find like a small nylon rope rated for 100 pounds!

[51504ROCK [OP]]

Whoops, forgot to mention your other servo on your red truck.

Where did you get a screw for your servo here? Its perfect for me too. Is that a HiTech servo? I will be measuring my servo bolt (pitch/dia) and will order a very long one if possible.

(also I am using a 1/10 servo for my winch: Hitec HS-645MG / 133.31 oz/in)

Hardware stores in Fresno SUCK. I can NOT find any small metric screws in town. Someone needs to point me in the right direction

Hey Mike,

 That servo is a JR servo but i think it uses the same as the Hi-Tec. I have lots of small metric screws from all the RC kits i have gone threw. I just grabbed one that worked.

 A great place to get any kind of hardware is this place, they have everything. http://www.mcmaster.com

One last question: Any specifics on winch cable? I was going to just go to wall mart and check out their sewing string collection. It would be cool to find like a small nylon rope rated for 100 pounds!

 The winch cable that i am using in that pic is some construction string, strong and looks cool. Another winch line alternative is some very heavy duty fishing line for fishing out in the ocean. It also looks cool and holds up well.

Can't wait to see the progress on your rig.

-Dustin

[BigMike]

Thanks again for the help Dustin

Last night I got a lot done! I now have U-bolt flip kits front and rear, inboarded rear leaf springs, rotated rear differential, and now I am waiting on RC4WD HEX Adapters so I can run my new 3.7" (scale 37") Tamiya F-350 tires and HPI 1.9 wheels. Tonight I should get some free time to update my thread

As for the winch cable, I had another idea: Have you tried any small braided cable, like for hanging pictures? I was going to go to Orchard or Lowes and take a look. It would be most realistic (old school), but I am worried about it snagging and not moving around such a small winch drum.

I also measured out a bunch of screws that I need and placed an order on mcmaster.com. My Hi-Tech servo uses a M2.5 (dia) x 0.45mm (pitch) x 8mm (length) and I ordered one that is 30mm long, the longest one they had. I will be redoing my drum once I get that and then the winch will be 100% finished.

I've already lowered my body by 3/4" and I am going to lower it about 1/2" or so depending on how much these littler tires articulate up. I just don't want the frame to be visible from the side of the body. I hate that skate-board look.

BigMike