Topic: Toyota Chevy Spring Swap Kit. For newb

[Doc Holiday]

Hello, i have a 1980 toyota 4x4 shortbox with a new frame on it, i wana get some chevy 63 inch half ton springs for it, i am a newb and i dont have a welder and all the other machining tools to do so i found this chevy spring swap kit, what do you guys think of it, is it worth if for a newbie like my self to buy, it cost $115.
Also my other question is, how much lift do these chevys give you, ive heard of people getting about 3 to 4 inches of lift, sometimes 5 inches and then i here people that only get about 1 or 2 inches of lift. so whats the deal how much lift do these springs get out.

The Kit cost $115 and is made by sky manufactering

[IronClad]

if you dont have a welder  then you cant do that kit since its weld on.

[Doc Holiday [OP]]

Well i have a buddy who has a welder but its at his house, so he could well the hangers and stuff on my frame.

[IronClad]

well then there ya go.  sky makes  awesome products so no problems there.   as for  lift with chevys.. it all varries  from truck to truck.  i dislike chevies  emensly but that is just my opinion

[Doc Holiday [OP]]

Sorry for the silly questions, but ive also heard of people using lift blocks to get a little bit more lift out of these springs, i also heard that lift blocks are bad, but if so what would be the biggest size of block to do the lift . 1 or 2 inch lift block.

And for the front springs which i will need new ones, i was thinking of getting some marlin front 4 inch springs, if so would i have to relocate the hangers for the front suspension or do these marlin springs fit right into place!!!

[Doc Holiday [OP]]

or i guess to get more lift outa the chevys you can make it so the front hangers drop down a extra couple of inches . would that work.

[Mnmstoy]

I use a 1" Solid block on my stock rear springs. I had 2" hallow blocks and I got bad spring/axle wrap from them. After about a year in use. When I changed them out to the smaller ones. I notice a crack in one of the 2" block. Good thing I changed them out. As for the 1" solid block ..spring/axle wrap isn't to bad now.
Just giving you a heads up what to incounter with blocks. IMHO, I would use a 1" solid block for the rear only. IF you need some lift. Others may tell you differently.
Mike

[twerp]

 So besides blocks. Alternatives to get more room from 63's? How much you get out of shakles with those springs? I wanna run 33's with room for 35's in the future. Would Chevy springs along with some shakles be enough?

[Mnmstoy]

I wanna run 33's with room for 35's in the future. Would Chevy springs along with some shackles be enough?

With what you posted. I think the front would need addressing more then the rear for 35's. I clear 33's with just my 1" solid blocks(stock rear springs) in back. I do have minor rubbing in the front(full turn). I can't really say in inches per say on my front lift, as I got them from a junkyard....maybe 3".
As for the 63" springs. From what I have read...get more flex,some lift, and "dirt cheap"(used ones). And that is the reason behind the 63's.
Mike

[twerp]

Yeah I hear what you are saying. Front I'd like some 4" springs if that rides pretty  even with the 63's. 5" would be better but dont wanna ride ass down nose up like a riverside ford ranger

 So say 4" springs in front, 63's in rear. Longer shocks all around. Drive shaft kit? I know eventually the steering needs to be addressed . What else am I in for?

  btw- Went to the SKY site. Looks like good stuff. ANy one use there stuff?

[Mnmstoy]

with stock steering. Like me...my torque rod hinders more lift. Removing it will cause other ill effects and danger if a D.D. which will put more stress on your j-arm. You may want to call Marlin and get the facts as for as max lift with stock steering and what size tire will fit.
More lift changes the pionion angle causing vibration, lenghtening your driveshaft and so on. I'm a cheap wheeler. I rather have low C.G. then some big lift. I'm going hi steer(when I can save money) and getting that new. I rather cut fenders and bed then go taller.
here is a pic to clear some bigger tires if I went that route. I moved the rear flares up about 2" too. This pic was with a 2" block in back

This one is with a 1" solid block in back.

Here is a pic with stock steering, junkyard lift, open diffs and bobed bed. I beleave you can wheel with stock steering and low lift. Just be smart about what you do and not go over your head. Knowing the limitations of your rig helps too.
 
Here is a pic of my bent tierod. And one reason I want to go hi steer.

Aside from some body damage, bent tierod and a few driveshafts. That is all that has failed me. I'm still new(2years now) and like my rig. I am growing along with my rig in wheeling.
I know my post is far from 63" swap. But I thought I would post up some pics and points of veiw. By the way, this is my D.D.
Mike