Author Topic: Tech Wanted: Battery welding  (Read 2896 times)

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MiniSimp

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Tech Wanted: Battery welding
« on: Sep 02, 2005, 11:16:33 AM »
Ok this has been asked a couple of times in a couple different posts...

What is needed for arc welding with batteries?
How many batteries do you need?
How do you hook it up?
How long can you weld?

Willy Mammoth

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Re: Tech Wanted: Battery welding
« Reply #1 on: Sep 02, 2005, 12:42:52 PM »
 :haha: Welding your batteries  :headscratch:  I'm notsure that is safe   :flamer:

I have also been thinking about this, but all I know is you need two or three batteries to get 24-36 volts.

Anybody know more about this? :dunno:
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ntsqd

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Re: Tech Wanted: Battery welding
« Reply #2 on: Sep 02, 2005, 01:12:54 PM »
A LONG time ago I polled several lists on the topic of what rod people favored for battery welding. 7014 came in first with 7018 a very close second, and 6011 (? or maybe 6013 - which ever is greater penetrating) a not too distant third.

Number of batteries will depend on rod size. I've been told the 3 work better than two in most cases.

No idea on how long b4 you can't start your repaired truck.
Cross threaded is tighter than Locktite

MiniSimp [OP]

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Re: Tech Wanted: Battery welding
« Reply #3 on: Sep 02, 2005, 01:29:41 PM »
Found these on the internet:

Quote
I carry a small Rod holder with a number of 6013 and 7018 rod, a piece of welding glass and gloves. I also have two sets of Jumper Cables. I just made up some small 18 inch long battery cables to make the connection cleaner. Connect the batteries in series, 2 minimum, three is best. Use the negative as ground and Positive as the rod holder. My jumper cable clamps do a pretty good job at holding the Rod. With two batteries the small rod burns nicely, the bigger rod was harder to control. The bigger rod burned much better with three batteries. Of course the state of your battereis would make a big difference. Fooling around in the garage I poked a hole in 1/8 x 2 x 2 steel angle, then cut a 6 inch section off with one rod. The only think I would change is to get a real helmet and a light sensing helmet would be best, but they get bulky to carry around. Its more of a juggling act to hold the glass in place while striking an arc. If I have time I'll take a picture of my setup or maybe I'll buy some welding cable, clamps, rod holders and sell some sets to fund my retirement.

Quote
I've done quite a bit of trail welding with the jumper cables. It seems when you wheel hard with XJ's something always needs to get welded. What you need is very simple. I carry jumper cables anyway, so I just throw in a rod container, helmet, gloves, small wire brush and slag hammer. The brush, hammer and gloves fit inside the helmet, so it takes little storage room. I carry my auto darkening helmet because I have room for it, and it's so much easier for me to weld with. I carry mostly 6011 rod in 3/32 and 1/8, because most of the time on the trail your welding vertical or upside down, and it's not always real clean, so the 6011 rod works better. I also carry some 6013 rod, but not 7018 because it needs to be flat and there's little flat welding on the trail. I've found that it's easiest to hold the rod with a vise grips, which is in my tool box anyway, and attach the positive end of the jumper cable to the vise grips.....much better than trying to hold the rod with the cable clamp. Like Ray said, two batteries works for 3/32 rod, 1/8 rod takes three batteries. So, jumper cables and vise grips are already there. Throw in the rod container, helmet, gloves (light ones), brush, and slag hammer if you want it, and that's it.

So it apears all you need is:
2 batteries (or a battery from another vehicle in addition to yours)
2 jumper cables (one for welding, one to run the batteries in series)
6011 rod in a container (kept dry)
Welding glass (or helmet if you have the room)
Leather Gloves (or welding gloves if you have them)
Wire Brush
Slag Hammer (optional)

Sounds pretty simple.

supermat

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Re: Tech Wanted: Battery welding
« Reply #4 on: Sep 02, 2005, 02:42:41 PM »
Does anyone know how fast it drains your batteries? I.E. if I break something, pull my battery, get out the spare batt. and go to town, will I still have juice to start the truck when I'm done???

Matt

Willy Mammoth

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Re: Tech Wanted: Battery welding
« Reply #5 on: Sep 02, 2005, 06:00:12 PM »
Leave it running :dunno:

Only if you don't have a computer, cause that would be bad fit it. :shocking:
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RHG

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Re: Tech Wanted: Battery welding
« Reply #6 on: Sep 02, 2005, 06:26:35 PM »
Push start the truck...well if your in a pile of rocks thats kinda hard huh? :hammerhead: You have jumper cables...hopefully there is another rig close by.
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Willy Mammoth

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Re: Tech Wanted: Battery welding
« Reply #7 on: Sep 02, 2005, 06:31:28 PM »
Push start the truck...well if your in a pile of rocks thats kinda hard huh? :hammerhead: You have jumper cables...hopefully there is another rig close by.

Unless you got the battery out of it too  :headscratch:  :hammerhead:
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RHG

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Re: Tech Wanted: Battery welding
« Reply #8 on: Sep 02, 2005, 06:38:00 PM »
 :help: Then your just screwed!  :rivers:
Only the dead have seen the end of war - Plato

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FIREBALL

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Re: Tech Wanted: Battery welding
« Reply #9 on: Sep 02, 2005, 06:47:11 PM »
I've done this a few times on the con. I agree on the rod sizes. That sounds just about right. We used both 7014 and 6011.
The first time I did it was with 3 batties. We were welding on a jeep axle (go figure). It worked very well on that heavier thicker metal.
The next time was with 2 batteries, but I can't remember what we were welding on. I was surprised at how well only 2 worked.
All we had was jumper cables and about 7 pair of sunglasses. Weather you use jumper cables or you make up some welding leads, you need to wire the batteries in series.
We welded the jeep axle to the hub (2 piece rear axle) and layed down some pretty good beads and the batteries all held up and were able to start the rigs afterwards.
Personally I like to have at least one rig left with a battery in it, just in case you need to jump start the others.
I also do recomend removing the batteries from the vehicles, or at least disconnecting them from the truck. Seems like most of the time you have to remove them just so you can get them into the spot where you're welding.
I know that some guys have had cables built just for welding this way. They have used welding cable with good quality battery clamps and then a ground clamp and rod holder. For space savings they use cutting goggles with welding lenses. Just remember that if you are doing any amount of welding to cover your face and head so you don't get arc burn.

MiniSimp [OP]

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Re: Tech Wanted: Battery welding
« Reply #10 on: Sep 07, 2005, 01:14:45 PM »
Found this on: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/DualBatteries.shtml#Welding

Quote
Welding with Batteries:
So, can you really weld with a couple of 12V batteries?
Yes, quite well in fact. I find 3 in series (36V) work better that 2 (24V) but in a pinch use what you got. You'll need some welding rod, a rod holder (jumper cable clamp might work in a pinch) some jumper cables and some batteries. If everyone in your wheeling group has a set of jumper cables, you are set. Hook cable to each battery, then connect the red of one to the black of the next one and so on, finally ending up with one black clamp and one red one and 24 or 36V between the two. Keep the batteries as far back from the welding location as you can, especially if they are not sealed units. A fire extinguisher is a good idea and some basic welding safety equipment like heavy gloves and a face shield with minimum #10 tint lens.

MiniSimp [OP]

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Hyena

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Re: Tech Wanted: Battery welding
« Reply #12 on: Sep 07, 2005, 10:01:34 PM »
Weld with 3 batteries for better results.  I welded with just two and it didn't have much penetration at all.  I had to weld a piece of metal the my broken axle that was stuck in the birfield.  I had to pull on the piece of metal so i could get the broken axle out of the birf.  I used 3 pares of sunglass's and it worked fine.  I don't know what kind of rod i have in my glovebox but it worked for what i had to do.

 
 
 
 
 

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