Topic: 3RZ swap clutch woes

[RyanV]

What about the shifter bushing? If it's broken, maybe the shifter/lever isn't able to move it out of gear completely?

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

Well the issue has reached its peak. Its gotten terribly worse ever since I added a rear tire carrier on the back of the truck. It also seems to have gotten worse with the nice weather we have been having. 4th gear is starting to grind when engaging as well. So I've decided to drop the tranny and replace it with the one I found on craigslist a few weeks back. I also ordered a new flywheel and 1200 lb clutch kit from Marlin. Now I'm wondering if I should pull the trigger on any other parts at the same time just to make sure I have EVERYTHING correct? I'm not trying to have to do this job twice and I want this problem solved once and for all. There was talk of a pivot arm possibly being the incorrect one earlier in the thread... I also see there are 3 different types of clips for the collar as well seen here:



I know I've dug my own hole here by having someone else do my swap and now I'm playing the guessing game with what is inside that bell. I'm just trying to get a definitive answer on what SHOULD be in there. Thanks again guys and wish me luck.

[LittleSteve]

If its shuddering when you dip the clutch it could be a broken spring in the friction disc.
Crawl underneath and make sure that the clutch disengages all the way, grab the release fork and shake it back and forth you should be able to feel a minute amount of play between the release bearing and the cover if its not disengaging properly check you have the correct push rod length for your current setup and check to ensure that the slave cylinder is of the correct size.
Push rod too long, incomplete engagement. (Only has to be a fraction to slip under load)
Push rod too short, incomplete release (cant select gears)
There are differences between them
Check to make sure the release fork is not bent for the same reason.
Pull the boot off the release fork if its been slipping a lot the bellhousing will be full of dust and will stink, also check for lumps of detritus that shouldnt be there ; bolt heads friction material etc. Check these before you commit to pulling the transmission
Theres not much else you can do without pulling the tranny.
Parts should consist of:
Flywheel
Flywheel bolts
Spigot bearing
Clutch disc
Clutch cover
Clutch cover retaining bolts
Release bearing
Clutch fork
Release bearing retaing clip
And release bearing pivot ball.
 

[SqWADoosh [OP]]

I solved my issue at least. Below is from my build thread regarding what I did.

23. 4th & 5th gear are going out on transmission (remove and replace)





24. Violent shuddering when leaving first gear especially on inclines (remove and replace clutch, flywheel, clutch cover, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing - Marlin HD 1,200 lb kit)



















Tackled the transmission/clutch job this weekend. Took me about 16 hours all told with a 14 hour day on Saturday and another 2 hours on Sunday. It appears my issue was in the flywheel as the pictures above show. I'd love to hear from you guys about what the likely cause was for the flywheel to look like that.

I put all the new parts in including the low mileage used transmission/transfer case I picked up a few weeks back. Everything is working however I did find some aluminum paste/metal when draining the low mileage transmission. My father in law says it is normal especially considering the mileage on it. He thinks that the guy probably never drained it and it is the original fluid and the paste and metal is likely from the synchros. I put some cheap gear oil in it for this week to kind of act as a flush. I plan on draining it this upcoming weekend and putting Red Line MT-90 in at that point. I'm not sure if its the new clutch/flywheel or the cheap fluid I've got in it right now but shifting does feel a little strange in comparison to before. It almost feels like I'm shifting through quicksand (the best analogy I can come up with). There is no problem getting into gear in any of the gears it just doesn't feel as tactile as before. I'm guessing it is due to the cheap gear oil. I guess I will find out when I drain it and put the Red Line in. 

The main issue that prompted all this work has been resolved which has me    The problem of violent shuddering when leaving 1st gear is gone!