Topic: Head bolts

[jeff94runner]

For those of you who have pulled 3.0 heads. Do you use a 12 point socket on the bolts or is there something special. I put a 12 mm 12 point on it and it wants to spin on the head.  All help greatly appreciated.

[79coyotefrg]

blew a headgasket??

i have no idea, but i'll get somebody that knows

[Snowtoy]

The 12pt socket should work, that is what I used anyways.

Have you removed the cams?  If not, i.e., just replacing the head gasket you need to use a thin walled 3/8's drive socket.

If you aren't already aware you cannot re-use the head bolts, they are torque-to-yield and can only be properly torqued once.  You will also need to replace at least the knock sensor wire.  Toyota recommends to replace both due to the location, but some haven't had an issue when just replacing the wire.  The KS wire gets brittle from heat, and will usually cause a KS code once the vehicle is back together. 

[79coyotefrg]

might be a good idea to upgrade to ARP studs

[MC387]

Make sure that your socket is not cracked.  Also, If this is not the first time this has been done, make sure that the bolts dont have a different head size.  I  have seen this on other toyota engines.

[BLACKDOG]

Snowtoy pretty much covered everything. The 12 point socket should work just fine, so you may not have stock bolts, or your socket may be worn out. I actually had to get a new socket obce because the socket (cheap) was to worn to get a good grip on them. 

[jeff94runner [OP]]

blew a headgasket??

i have no idea, but i'll get somebody that knows

No Glen, I believe i have leaky valve seals on the driver's side front two cylinders and a sticking or burnt valve on the pass front cylinder. The pass front cylinder had a 25 lb comp test while the rest were 165 to 175. I put oil in that cyl with no change so I'm assuming its the valves. The engine is a reman out of Dallas with only about 10k on it.  What are ARP bolts?  

snowtoy, I have not removed the cams and I was going to try not to but I realized I will have to to get the valves out. The only 12point i have that small is a stanley so I will buy a better one.

Thanks to all for all the input guys. I did not want to strip a bolt before going any further.
I'm going to put Toyota gaskets back on the heads and I will use new bolts now because its a JOB to get to them.

[MC387]

Also since it is a rebuild.  Make sure that they did a nice smooth machine job on the heads.  If not, get it done.

[79coyotefrg]

Jeff,  if you end up needing a machine shop i have a good race shop near me, you could ship it to them

not sure about the other guys (I'm sure they have 3.0 experience or they wouldnt have responded) but Blackdog has swapped out like four 3.0's in his truck,  that qualifies him as a 3.0 guru

[Snowtoy]

What are ARP bolts?

ARP studs replace the the head bolts and allow for a more exacting torque value of each stud and clamping pressure around the head.   With the oem TTY head bolts you set an initial torque value and then IIRC 3 90* turns.  The 90* turns are hard to do exactly so that each of the head bolts apply the same pressure, and over time this can cause a premature head gasket failure.  This is why you need to start with a resurfaced head and check the block.  IIRC, ARP studs studs run about $200.  The studs unlike the TTY bolts are re-usable.  I am not sure but I think enginebuilder.com has re-usable head bolts.  Even if they are TTY, at $39/set they are still a better deal than $6-8 each at the dealer.