Author Topic: 20r head on 22r block (Read 8917 times)

buckeye1437 · « **on:** Dec 20, 2007, 03:29:39 PM »

can you put a 20r head on all 22r blocks i have 1985 22r bolck to put my head on it

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 20, 2007, 05:08:41 PM »

no, not on a 85 block

its a GREAT mod on the 80-84 22R block

put a healthy cam on the 85 and a weber you'll be surprised

buckeye1437 · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 20, 2007, 05:58:17 PM »

hey thanks

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 20, 2007, 07:05:50 PM »

this is the cam that i use

its SWEET

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=2346B717-3AEB-4B00-A8C5-99A8D264DCBA

Hottrod81 · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 21, 2007, 10:52:03 AM »

It won't help much if you like to crawl, however.

RN37DD · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 21, 2007, 11:03:31 AM »

low gearing and you can still crawl even with a bigger cam. i put a 260 cam in my truck and i should have listened to coyote. my next cam well have at least 440 lift.

skid · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 21, 2007, 01:50:15 PM »

Quote from: Hottrod81 on Dec 21, 2007, 10:52:03 AM

It won't help much if you like to crawl, however.

Simple, shift down. Same speed with more rpm's and more power available. Slow crawl doesn't have much to do with hp, but sometimes wheel speed and or momentum in needed. The slightly larger cams are a great middle ground.

RN37DD · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 21, 2007, 02:12:16 PM »

the cam i was running before was a crane.. i think the lift was .435 anyway it acted just like a stock cam until about 3500 rpm and then came on strong. if traction wasn't good you'd get sideways.. i guess that would annoy some people. the cam i have doesn't do that but it's pretty boring.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 21, 2007, 04:03:05 PM »

Quote from: Hottrod81 on Dec 21, 2007, 10:52:03 AM

It won't help much if you like to crawl, however.

i LOVE to crawl, but when i shift to hi range and pull out on the highway i want to GO, and with this cam i go as fast as i want to.

and i have been in mud where slow wont go, but reving to 4K in 4 hi in deep sticky red clay mud a stock 22R would fall on its face

this cam works very well, it has the same (very close anyway) low end as a stock cam, but will easily PULL past 4500-5000 rpm not just free rev but PULL

Hottrod81 · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 21, 2007, 04:26:56 PM »

How is a bigger cam going to help you crawling? The torque is going to be at a higher RPM. Sure it might work for the highway, but what I was saying that if you are doing a lot of low speed obtacles, the cam and head won't be of any benefit.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 21, 2007, 05:23:58 PM »

Quote from: Hottrod81 on Dec 21, 2007, 04:26:56 PM

How is a bigger cam going to help you crawling? The torque is going to be at a higher RPM. Sure it might work for the highway, but what I was saying that if you are doing a lot of low speed obtacles, the cam and head won't be of any benefit.

right they dont help at all but this cam isnt so radical that it hurts your lo end either, thats what i was trying to say, my truck crawls very well

skid · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 21, 2007, 05:49:47 PM »

Technology today can produce a superior cam. More topend without sacrificing lowend. = more effecient.

82 HiLux · « **Reply #12 on:** Feb 09, 2008, 01:24:34 PM »

I have been interested in putting a 20r head on my 22r for a while. http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=FB9D8306-3FFC-4849-9E62-8253844682CF this one in particular. it would make an excellent setup with a stroker kit, my MSD ignition setup, my weber 38 and my LCE pro distributer. if I can buy a new 20r head instead of a new 22r head and make more power than a 22r head, then why would I even consider buying the 22r one?

RN37DD · « **Reply #13 on:** Feb 10, 2008, 05:32:52 AM »

hey if you already are building a 84 or older 22r block and your going to buy a head, it sounds like it would be the way to go to me.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #14 on:** Feb 10, 2008, 09:20:07 AM »

Quote from: 82 HiLux on Feb 09, 2008, 01:24:34 PM

I have been interested in putting a 20r head on my 22r for a while. http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=FB9D8306-3FFC-4849-9E62-8253844682CF this one in particular. it would make an excellent setup with a stroker kit, my MSD ignition setup, my weber 38 and my LCE pro distributer. if I can buy a new 20r head instead of a new 22r head and make more power than a 22r head, then why would I even consider buying the 22r one?

it will blow your mind

i would choose the stage 2 cam, OH and use the clay method to check for valve to piston clearance

82 HiLux · « **Reply #15 on:** Feb 10, 2008, 05:45:28 PM »

what is the clay method? ive never heard of it, but i can picture in my head what it probably is.

what I have now: stock 22r block and head (head is rebuilt recently), MSD ignition setup, weber 38 DGAS, long tube header, LCE pro distributer, all smog stuff removed and not an issue.

what I want to do: rebuild block with the LCE stroker kit making it 2.6L, install LCE stage 2 20r racing head, install offenhouser intake manifold, and put all my good

on the motor.

skid · « **Reply #16 on:** Feb 10, 2008, 05:53:50 PM »

Quote from: 82 HiLux on Feb 10, 2008, 05:45:28 PM

what I want to do: rebuild block with the LCE stroker kit making it 2.6L, install LCE stage 2 20r racing head, install offenhouser intake manifold, and put all my good on the motor.

Cheaper alternative would be a 2.7L 3rz swap out of a newer Tacoma. 150hp stock with fuel injection, superchargers also avaliable. Used motor and accessories can go from $1500-2500. Food for thought.

The clay thing is putting clay on the piston, temporarely install head cam and timing. spin motor over and remove head. check valve clearance on top of piston by measuring the squished clay

82 HiLux · « **Reply #17 on:** Feb 10, 2008, 07:16:00 PM »

Ive done a ton of research on the 3rz swap. for now, I like the simplicity of the carburetor. I know its a lot more expensive, that part sucks. I dont think I would want to deal with the fuel injection conversion. my truck is my daily driver also, so I cant have it down for 3 months. and I just plain old dont have the time to do that...as much as I would like to.

the clay thing is what I thought it was. thats a pretty good idea, Ill have to do it.

skid · « **Reply #18 on:** Feb 11, 2008, 07:23:06 AM »

Quote from: 82 HiLux on Feb 10, 2008, 07:16:00 PM

Ive done a ton of research on the 3rz swap. for now, I like the simplicity of the carburetor. I know its a lot more expensive, that part sucks. I dont think I would want to deal with the fuel injection conversion. my truck is my daily driver also, so I cant have it down for 3 months. and I just plain old dont have the time to do that...as much as I would like to.

Swap has been known to be done in 3-4 days. I understand the simple thing, but I've also come to hate carbs. I would vote for a 3rz swap, and if I had to build a 22r, skip the stroker. Not enough gain for the money.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #19 on:** Feb 11, 2008, 07:59:14 PM »

yea you can make some good power with a nice fresh rebuilt 22R block and the head you mentioned, skip the stroker and boring to 94mm because what they dont tell you is that you'll need a v6 radiator to keep it cool on the highway

i know cause mine is 93.5 mm and i had to install a v6 radiator

also i had problems with the 20r head blowing gaskets on my 93.5mm block, on the 92 or 93mm block it was a awesome upgrade, and reliable

RN37DD · « **Reply #20 on:** Feb 12, 2008, 12:07:52 PM »

my 20/22r is 92.5mm with a 3 core radiator. runs so cool i'm thinking on driveing it to work without a fan. or at least finding a cheap electric fan to run. i'm on the coast and a three core was real overkill for me. but it was free and the two core was about to die anyway.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #21 on:** Feb 12, 2008, 01:43:28 PM »

gotta have a thermostat in there thats for sure,

RN37DD · « **Reply #22 on:** Feb 12, 2008, 03:21:05 PM »

got one.. but it's a cheapy. think it's a 185 but the motor hardly ever gets over 165. got a real toyota thermostat to put in next. btw how many motor do you think were killed by slants?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #23 on:** Feb 13, 2008, 07:58:42 AM »

Quote from: rn37dd on Feb 12, 2008, 03:21:05 PM

got one.. but it's a cheapy. think it's a 185 but the motor hardly ever gets over 165. got a real toyota thermostat to put in next. btw how many motor do you think were killed by slants?

i know of 5 myself,

3 were mine

tryn2Crawl · « **Reply #24 on:** Feb 14, 2008, 10:27:04 AM »

I believe you can use a '85 block, just not the pistons! You need the DISHED-STYLE pistons to have proper clearance with a 20r head...

RN37DD · « **Reply #25 on:** Feb 14, 2008, 10:44:48 AM »

from what i understand theres a lot of work that needs to be done if your going to use an 85 plus block.

better just to find an 84 or older 22r block and go from there.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #26 on:** Feb 14, 2008, 11:25:20 AM »

Quote from: tryn2Crawl on Feb 14, 2008, 10:27:04 AM

I believe you can use a '85 block, just not the pistons! You need the DISHED-STYLE pistons to have proper clearance with a 20r head...

you CAN but the cost of the custom machine work that needs to be done is not worth it

buckeye1437 [OP]

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