Author Topic: Welders... (Read 4890 times)

GDubb5150 · « **on:** Jan 25, 2008, 06:41:48 PM »

I couldn't find anything in a search regarding this subject so if it has been discussed before feel free to point me in the right direction.

It's income tax time and one thing I have been wanting/needing for quite some time is a welder. I dont need anything big because it will primarily be used for automotive projects I have had sitting around for years now. Mostly sheet metal and body work plus some tubing and suspension work. Seeing as how I will probably never weld anything over 3/16" to MAYBE 1/4" I figure I need nothing more than a decent 110 MIG. I have had a few years metal fabrication/manufacturing experience (cnc burner table oper., press brake oper., sheer oper. and other misc fab shop equipment) but I dont have alot of welding experience. Some, but not alot. OBVIOUSLY there are some very talented fabricators and welders hanging around here so I am looking to pick your brains for opinions on which welders you guys have had experience with and where you think my money will be best spent. I am one of those guys that likes to buy things ONCE and buy the right product the first time. Thanks in advance for your valued input... Let's hear it!

-G

Duffil · « **Reply #1 on:** Jan 25, 2008, 07:10:02 PM »

4RnrRick uses a small 110 unit, and has proved it to be plenty powerful. My thoughts are that you can either get a cheap 220 unit or a good 110 unit and probably get close to the same performance out of them. I have a HF 220 welder that works fine for me...

94MtnYote · « **Reply #2 on:** Jan 25, 2008, 08:20:17 PM »

220v seems the best for up to 1/4'' especially if yer gonna do suspension work. The penetration of 220 is deeper and allows for a better nights sleep.

But I'm just a beginer so thats my

Hammerhead · « **Reply #3 on:** Jan 25, 2008, 08:30:08 PM »

I've been welding for about 30 years and have 4 welders of my own here in my garage. For what you plan to do I would not recommend a 110 unit. Mine is perfect for body panels but quite lame for anything over 1/8". It will do it but it is not fun... Get a 220 MIG as it will be able to handle anything ou need to do in one pass. I can't see getting anything less than a Miller 175. You'll get great service out of it and excellent reliability. If you have the money and think you might want the best just get a Miller 251 and never look back. Add a spool gun and weld aluminum too.....

skipnrocks · « **Reply #4 on:** Jan 25, 2008, 08:42:19 PM »

I use ahobart 140 and it works great for anything upto 3/8 single pass. I had a neighbor (pro-bike builder) come over and check out something I was building he laughed saying there was no way it was penetrating properly, he then checked things out and admited he was wronge and that he was impressed by it! So if you can afford a good 220 go for it but if you cant get a good110 if you use good technique you will be able to do anything you want. I know someone who built their whole rig with a 110 including lincon lockin his 14 b with 44s and hasnt broken any problems.

red · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 25, 2008, 10:13:37 PM »

Quote from: hammerhead on Jan 25, 2008, 08:30:08 PM

I've been welding for about 30 years and have 4 welders of my own here in my garage. For what you plan to do I would not recommend a 110 unit. Mine is perfect for body panels but quite lame for anything over 1/8". It will do it but it is not fun... Get a 220 MIG as it will be able to handle anything ou need to do in one pass. I can't see getting anything less than a Miller 175. You'll get great service out of it and excellent reliability. If you have the money and think you might want the best just get a Miller 251 and never look back. Add a spool gun and weld aluminum too.....

x2. if cost of the welder is a big factor you could learn to ark weld and get a very good quality ark welder for cheaper than a mig welder.

Toymin8r · « **Reply #6 on:** Jan 26, 2008, 01:52:50 AM »

I found a new in the box Lincoln Weld Pak 3200HD (135 amp 110v) on Ebay for $300.00 It had the gas hookups included. It burns great. I was lucky enought to find one locally though cause shipping is high. I chose this one cause a friend did all my welding for my SAS on a 100amp version of the same welder and I've never had a problem with any of it after 7 years.

nvtoyin21 · « **Reply #7 on:** Jan 26, 2008, 08:54:46 AM »

Got the 140 Miller/ plugs into 110V, an it gets ur done good. Had a Hobart same size before that and it worked well. But if you want to go big or go home, Id go 220 unit.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #8 on:** Jan 26, 2008, 09:20:57 AM »

For those of us who don't have easy access to 240V, a 120V has to be good enough. I went with the idea that, when I do have 240V available I will spend money for a real nice welder, for now I wanted a 120 that would get er done for a decent price. I am using a Clarke 135 machine. It isn't a Miller, but it is far better than the HF super cheapo I had before. The key really is that prepping your joints becomes more critical because the machine doesn't have the balls to get through some of the thicker stuff. I haven't had any problems with weld strength yet...they are all holding strong.

jedrattle · « **Reply #9 on:** Jan 26, 2008, 07:10:07 PM »

One word.....Miller!!!!

boggerunner · « **Reply #10 on:** Jan 27, 2008, 10:31:24 PM »

ive got a lincoln 140c, and its a great 110 welder, and it only cost me $525 just dont use it for lincoln lockers, go with a stick or 220 welder for those

ninja turtle · « **Reply #11 on:** Jan 28, 2008, 10:28:36 PM »

im saving for the new miller passport. it is bad arsss.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #12 on:** Jan 28, 2008, 10:43:54 PM »

Is that a suitcase?

ninja turtle · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 28, 2008, 10:46:10 PM »

yeah. 120/240 mig/spoolgun tig.

and it can run off a generator.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 28, 2008, 11:12:35 PM »

Sweet! I guess that's the dual power one then. Never used a spoolgun. I had a suitcase for a while, absolutely bitchin but kinda overkill for anything I could weld, unless I decided to build a bridge on the property! Can't remeber exactly which model mine was now, but had to run it off a big welder like a bobcat or trailblazer.

edit: I remember, it's a miller s32p

ninja turtle · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 28, 2008, 11:26:47 PM »

yeah.. it is overkill but for the price and the weight its a smoke'n deal. plus anything is better then my p.o.s. chicago.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 28, 2008, 11:37:06 PM »

True

I've been having trouble with my hobard 135, thought I'd narrowed it down to a wirefeed issue until I talked to our welder today. I thought about this way before getting a welder but totally forgot, but I might not have a high enough amperage going to that particular outlet. I need to get with my landlord and see what it is, and if need be install a 30 amp.

ninja turtle · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 28, 2008, 11:46:30 PM »

had to do the same thing. 200 bucks.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 29, 2008, 12:02:16 AM »

$200

I'd be better off selling it and getting one that runs off 220 and use the other plug! There's actually a miller 210 for sale locally for $800, that would definately offer a lot more versatility.

ninja turtle · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 29, 2008, 12:04:38 AM »

oh, 30A 120v. i had the 220 put in. that was 200.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #20 on:** Jan 29, 2008, 12:16:18 AM »

I'm guessing you had somebody else do it? I'm pretty sure I could get my landlord to eat the cost since I never charge them for power or propane when they're here.

ninja turtle · « **Reply #21 on:** Jan 29, 2008, 12:32:55 AM »

yeah, i called in the pros.

Volcom · « **Reply #22 on:** Jan 30, 2008, 09:30:28 AM »

After welding with both a 110 unit and a 220, I prefer the 220. I welded all my non-critical stuff (diff protection, truss) with the 110 but used the 220 for all of the suspension. I thought I was welding 1/4" stuff pretty well with a 110. Not after using a 220. You get way more penetration with the 220.

94MtnYote · « **Reply #23 on:** Jan 30, 2008, 09:56:38 AM »

220 definitely the way to go, better penetration and the extra heat can help make up for small errors in prep and manipulation of the electrode.

skipnrocks · « **Reply #24 on:** Jan 30, 2008, 12:09:52 PM »

I wounder if you could make a dual voltage, so if your welding in the shop and can have your welder stationary you can run it off 220, and then if your needing to be somewhat mobile you can run it on 120.

If you want to try a real impressive welder find a DC welder those tyings can burn some steel!

DTB · « **Reply #25 on:** Jan 30, 2008, 12:12:20 PM »

Quote from: skipnrocks on Jan 30, 2008, 12:09:52 PM

I wounder if you could make a dual voltage, so if your welding in the shop and can have your welder stationary you can run it off 220, and then if your needing to be somewhat mobile you can run it on 120.

If you want to try a real impressive welder find a DC welder those tyings can burn some steel!

YES, they do make dual voltage units

94MtnYote · « **Reply #26 on:** Jan 30, 2008, 12:18:41 PM »

DC is great for the high heat and penetration but AC also has the advantage of being free from arc blow

skipnrocks · « **Reply #27 on:** Jan 30, 2008, 12:20:24 PM »

Quote from: DirToyBoy on Jan 30, 2008, 12:12:20 PM

YES, they do make dual voltage units

Can you convert one to do it? I would imagine it would be easier to convert a 220 to run off 120, but I have a 120 and think it would be col to convert it to run off 220 also!

kneedownnate · « **Reply #28 on:** Jan 30, 2008, 06:31:49 PM »

Quote from: skipnrocks on Jan 30, 2008, 12:09:52 PM

I wounder if you could make a dual voltage, so if your welding in the shop and can have your welder stationary you can run it off 220, and then if your needing to be somewhat mobile you can run it on 120.

Quote from: no-idea on Jan 28, 2008, 10:28:36 PM

im saving for the new miller passport. it is bad arsss.

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