Topic: ENGINE CUTS OUT. *UPDATE HELP*

[SLIVER]

Hey here's my problem. I have a newly rebuilt 22-re in my 85 runner. When I am at the point in the throttle right before complete let off my engine cuts out, only for like a split second and then comes back. It will repeat this every 4-5 seconds as long as I am at this point in my throttle. If I give it gas it goes away, and if I completely let off the gas it goes away.
My engine did not do this before the rebuild. I know that i'm on timing wise with the teeth on the gears and distributor, however I don't know if my timing is set exactly right degree wise.
Engine has new spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, oil & filter, fuel filter.
I need a good place to start here, I don't know if the TPS has ever been changed, they are like 80 bucks so I hope it's something cheaper that is the culprit.
Thanks for all the help guys.

))--SLIVER-->

[86bobbedtoy]

adjust your tps throttle position sensor
also might be the mass ecu gate

[*ROKTOY*]

X2 on readjusting the TPS.

[SLIVER [OP]]

How do I adjust it? I thought that it was either bad or good. If it is bad, you have to replace it? I did not know that there was any adjustment in the sensor itself.

))--SLIVER-->

[*ROKTOY*]

Here ya go. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

[-Matt-]

x3 tps most likely needs adjustment, if your explaining what i think your are, does it only do it when there's no pressure on the engine.. when in neutral or clutch in... couse i had a buddy with the same thing but it never did it while we was actually driving it (it was always in the 1k-1.5k rpm range). his engine was good, and strong, and since it didn't do it while he was driving he never cared to fix it.

[SLIVER [OP]]

Nope, I only have noticed it when driving. When I'm at almost full let off. It is also getting worse as the time goes by.

I just need to find some time to fool around with it. i checked the TPS adjustment info and to be honest that looks quite confusing.

))--SLIVER-->

[kneedownnate]

I remember reading his method and thinking it was like 10x more detailed than what my haynes manual calls for.  I just hooked the leads from my multimeter to the proper pins on the tps, then with the screws slightly loose I rotated it till there was a deflection on the meter and called it good.  I can check what the manual says to do and post it tomorrow if you want.

[SLIVER [OP]]

That would be tight man, Thanks a ton.

))--SLIVER-->

[86bobbedtoy]

just turn it by hand untill it runs better thats what I do.

[SLIVER [OP]]

Do I just take out the screws, turn it, and then re-tighten the screws again? Which way do I turn it, is it like timing where one way advances and one way retards?
I checked my timing today and it was set at 5 deg. I advanced it to right about 9 or 10 degrees. I'll test drive it a little later to see if this helped, but I know that it's not the  problem.
I also unplugged the TPS while it was at idle and it started running like shiat so I assume that my tps is still working, just not good enough huh?

Thanks guys.

))--SLIVER-->

[kneedownnate]

Just loosen the screws enough to be able to rotate it, don't remove them or you'll have a pregnant dog of a time getting them in while holding it where it needs to be.  Rather than explain it, here are the pages from my manual.

[SLIVER [OP]]

Thanks man, I will try that when I get a free moment. I'll have to borrow or rent an ohm meter.

))--SLIVER-->

[kneedownnate]

Just buy the $10-15 one at sears, long as it reads in ohms too it'll work for most everything you'll need it for.

[kneedownnate]

Any update?

[SLIVER [OP]]

Well to conclude this post the TPS was the culprit. I am short on time these days so I just had my buddy who is a mechanic take a look at it. He said that he couldn't get the TPS to adjust to the right spec's. So I got a new one. He also said that my throttle plate thing inside my intake was the dirtiest one he's ever seen. It took 3 cans of carb cleaner to get all the black junk off it. I picked it up from him and drove it home, and the thing was leaking coolant all over the place. While he had the intake apart, he must have torn one of the radiator hoses that control the heat for the idle. So I filled it back up with water and took it back down to him. He had some spare hose there and we made a new one. It was kind of a cluster yesterday but I think she is squared away now.
It also feels like my runner has more power with all that stuff fixed. So I'm happy.
Thanks again for all your advice and help guys.
You are all TOYOTA MASTERS.

))--SLIVER-->

[toyomr285]

I have been trying to solve that problem for two to three months.  Can you ask you friend what he did with the tps.  I would greatly appreciate it.

[SLIVER [OP]]

He replaced it. You will also need to adjust the new one to the right spec's, and there is some instuructions above.

))--SLIVER-->

[SLIVER [OP]]

So my runner has been cutting out again BAD!
And needless to say i'm pissed.

I checked the TPS spec's this is what I found. Here are the spec's off the link, and my spec value will be off to the side in red.

Table 1: 22RE (2.4L-4 cyl) - TPS Adjustment Specifications

1. 0.00mm (0.000")    VTA - E2    200-800  123
2. 0.57mm (0.0224")   IDL - E2    < 2.3K  0.1
3. 0.85mm (0.0335")   IDL - E2    Open / Infinite open
4. Wide Open Throttle VTA - E2    3.3K-10K  7.72
5. n / a                    Vcc - E2     3.0K - 7.0K  6.73

Everything was in spec except #1 and the truck is still running like poo. cutting out about mid way in the throttle.
Do you think that I got a bad TPS or something?

I can adjust #1 until it is about 774, but then #3 reads .1 ish instead of open.
All I know is I'm just about to the point that I light this thing on fire, i'm getting so frustrated.

What should I do now?
Please help me.
))--SLIVER-->