Author Topic: Valve Adjustment  (Read 7229 times)

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hudlenutz

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Valve Adjustment
« on: Nov 18, 2005, 08:52:31 AM »
Last weekend I installed a timing chain kit in my 22re.  After I installed the kit, the truck felt much tighter, or dare I say 'newer.'  I was really pleased with the results.  Thanks for the info, by the way.  I got all the instructions off the MC board, from diagnosis to installation...

Anyway, last night I figured I'd finish the job by adjusting the valves.  I went .008 intake .012 exhaust with the engine hot.  Now when I'm driving around, it sounds a lot worse than it did before (like a diesel powered sewing machine).  So where'd I go wrong?  Can I bring the valves in a little tighter?  Like .006/.010?  Is there anything else I should check?  I heard once that putting the valve cover on too tight can do that too.

 :dunno:


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Re: Valve Adjustment
« Reply #1 on: Nov 18, 2005, 09:14:17 AM »
you can try .008/.010 if it starts running bad just go back.

and do remember just cuze the nuts go on the head don't make um head bolts.
I put them on with a 1/4 drive rat sh*t and no need to be real hard on them.
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toyo487

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Re: Valve Adjustment
« Reply #2 on: Nov 18, 2005, 10:01:26 AM »
where did you buy your timming chain from? 
with the valves I've seen alot of people adjust them wrong.  warm the engin up to opreating tem then take the valve cover off and check them again.  put it on top dead center #1 cyl and make sure you have play in both rockers.  adjust to .008 and .012  then rotate the engin 90 degrees and check next cyl I belive you adjust them in the order of 1,3,4,2  between each adjustment you only need to rotate the engin 90 degrees.  you should not need to adjust them any tighter unless you have cam.  I hope this helps  Justin
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92yota

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Re: Valve Adjustment
« Reply #3 on: Nov 19, 2005, 12:41:54 AM »
I ussualy go 7/11 and naver had any problems yet

toyo487

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Re: Valve Adjustment
« Reply #4 on: Nov 19, 2005, 09:24:29 AM »
some people use the tappered feeler gauges and have better luck, if you use those then you would need to use the .007 and .011.  this would give you a better adjustment they say.
1986 Toyota 4Runner 22re 5spd transmission and dual transfer cases (4.7’s in the rear). E-lockers front and rear.

2005 GMC Sierra diesel, compound turbo setup to pull.

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kyle_22r

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Re: Valve Adjustment
« Reply #5 on: Nov 20, 2005, 12:25:17 PM »
i'd give .007 and .011 a shot.  it's what i run on my '79 truck though the cam called for that adjustment.  i put new rocker arms on and it's really quiet now.

you could also have worn out adjusting screws.  they develop a flat face and make noise.

11 Bravo

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Re: Valve Adjustment
« Reply #6 on: Nov 20, 2005, 07:10:02 PM »
I will give another vote for .007 and .011. I have adjusted them cold at these settings and never had a ticking problem. Kyle may be right that something has developed a wear face that has now been moved. I would try adjusting them again. I don't know how the valve cover being too tight could have any effect on it.

Here are a couple of tricks I use.

I hope I can write this so it makes sense. When the timing mark is lined up with the pointer check for free play in both rockers on #1 and #4 cylinders. Lets say #1 has free play in both rockers for example. You adjust intake and exhaust on that cylinder. Then you work your way to the back of the engine; #2 adjust intake, #3 adjust exhaust. Roll the engine 360 degrees (one turn). Both rockers on #4 will now have free play. On #4 adjust intake and exhaust. Work your way forward and adjust #3 intake, #2 exhaust. 

Remember it like this: When on top dead center, find the end cylinder with free play in both rockers. Adjust" intake - exhaust". Work your way to the other end of the engine adjusting one valve per cylinder in the sequence "intake - exhaust".  This works on every in-line engine I have ever worked on. It works on a 3406 Caterpillar or 20R Toyota and you never have to look in the book and you only have to roll the engine over once. There might be some in-line engine out that this won't work on, so be carefull if you try something new, but I have never run into one and I know it works on Toyota. If the rocker you are going to adjust has free play you are good to go.

Second trick I use for valve adjusting. This one may also be a little tough to explain, but here goes.

Back the lock nut off a turn or two so it is out of the way. Put your feeler gauge between the rocker and stem. Use your fingers on the adjusting screw to get it as tight as you can (with only your fingers).  At this point the feeler gauge will be pinched tight. Use a screw driver to hold the adjusting screw so it does not move and tighten the lock nut. The feeler gauge will be free with just the right amount of "drag". Once you get a feel for doing it this way, every valve will have exactly the same amount of drag on the feeler gauge. They come out perfect every time.

 Somebody please yell at me if that doesn't make any sense. If it does, give it a try and see what you think.
« Last Edit: Nov 20, 2005, 07:42:50 PM by 11 Bravo »
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hudlenutz [OP]

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Re: Valve Adjustment
« Reply #7 on: Nov 21, 2005, 07:34:22 AM »
I used a Toyota chain and tensioner and the rest of the stuff out of the engnbldr kit. 

11 Bravo, I adjust valves in the same order you do.  I like your method for getting them all to have the same amount of feeler drag, so I'll try that out.  I'm just going to try adjusting them again, and see what happens with 7/11 

thanks for the info

toyo487

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Re: Valve Adjustment
« Reply #8 on: Nov 21, 2005, 08:19:11 AM »
that is good that you didn'tuse the timming chain and tensioner out of the engnbldr kit.  I have used it two times and it sounded like a diesle after finisthing the job.  After the secound one sounded that way I took it all apart again to find out that the chain was too loose and actually was slapping against the timming chain guide bolts. I ended up replacing at that point.  that chain only had 2000 miles on it.  I put a different chain and tensioner in and it ran like a champ and sounded great after that.  I'll never use that kit again
1986 Toyota 4Runner 22re 5spd transmission and dual transfer cases (4.7’s in the rear). E-lockers front and rear.

2005 GMC Sierra diesel, compound turbo setup to pull.

   God gave all people talents but the only one who can find them is you.

hudlenutz [OP]

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Re: Valve Adjustment
« Reply #9 on: Dec 03, 2005, 09:45:43 PM »
I got out and re-adjusted the valves again today.  After much deliberation, and measuring, I decided to go .005/.009.  I know this is WAY tight, but I figured I'd give it a shot and see how it went, at least for a little while.  I put the valve cover on much looser as well.

...and.... It sounds great!  I feel like I'm driving a new truck.  The motor is nice and tight.  There's only the slightest hint of valve clatter.

So why did I go so tight?  My original 8/12 had stretched to about 10/14 in a weeks time.  I figured if I wanted to end up with 7/11, 5/9 would just about get me there.  I torqued the adjuster nuts to 35 ft-lb both times.

If I'm seriously endangering my motor, let me know.  Otherwise, as usual, thanks for all the info.  I feel much more confident wrenching on my truck after hearing everyone's input and experience, especially since I'm still a newb-mechanic.

79coyotefrg

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Re: Valve Adjustment
« Reply #10 on: Dec 22, 2005, 06:59:28 PM »
35 on the adjusters is a little tight,  but  i wouldnt worry about it, 

the thing with the valve cover, if you have a higher lift cam  and tighten the weeewee  out of the valve cover the rockers will hit it,

you'll probably be ok,  but 5and 9  is a little tight,  just   check it in a month and see how it is
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Re: Valve Adjustment
« Reply #11 on: Feb 01, 2006, 05:34:27 PM »
Yep, i definetlly vote for 7/11 :yesnod:  because i just did mine and i sounds like a new engine again! :driving:  :beerchug:  :love:
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Re: Valve Adjustment
« Reply #12 on: Feb 01, 2006, 05:58:16 PM »
btw  i run 8/10 and i swear  11bravo must have went to the same school i did because thats the same exact method i use to adjust valves,  be it Cat , Mack, or toyota
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

 
 
 
 
 

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