Topic: Gettin the 22RE out

[yotatilla]

Hey guys,
I have my 86 4Runner in the driveway, and I am in the process of taking my 22RE out for a little rebuild. I am having trouble with the transmission bolts. I was wondering if there was a trick to getting the top two bolts out of the block, or is it just find a small-handed person to shove thier fist down there? I was born with big hands, and this is getting frustrating. I have loosened all the others with nothing but a socket and ratchet, but I cant get at these. It has a 5 spd. transmission. I am also wondering about a larger (17 mm) bolt on the passenger side behind some kind of rubber boot. I was wondering if I have to disconnect this, or again, is there some kind of trick? I know that you guys love to do this stuff, but the snow is flying up here and I am running out of time to get the engine inside. Any input is most appreciated. Thanks,


Sam

[Rocksurfer]

They are a pain even for regular handed people, took me forever to get those top bolts up against the firewall, and I've done it 3 times on second gens, I can only imagine how tough it's gonna be when I have to do my even tighter 1st gen. I had to use a hand wrench to get 'em out.

[91 super yoda]

i went down to the local tool store and rented a small aisian person to get in the tight spots, j/k. i used a long handled pivoting head wratchet wrenches, did the trick for me, pulled a 22re in a 84, 91, and a 94. took the ole double up wrench trick to break them loose.

dont really know what 17mm your talkin about but the ones on the bellhousing is usually all you need to pull off

[Prismo]

You can always lift the engine after unbolting motor mounts, pull them out & lower the engine until there is more than enough room to put 3 long 1/2" extensions together & get them from underneath or use a 17 wrench to get them from the top. Get the one by the clutch arm with a socket, just push the arm & boot to the side. Pull the starter too if you haven't yet.

[Rocksurfer]

You can always lift the engine after unbolting motor mounts, pull them out & lower the engine until there is more than enough room to put 3 long 1/2" extensions together & get them from underneath or use a 17 wrench to get them from the top. Get the one by the clutch arm with a socket, just push the arm & boot to the side. Pull the starter too if you haven't yet.

never thought of pulling the motor mounts.

[reklund5]

Quit working so damn hard.  Taking those bolts out from the top is way too hard to fuss with.

Drop the t-case crossmember and let the tail of transfer case hang down a few inches.  Get yourself a 36" long extension and a 17mm wobbly socket.  (I use a 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive reducing extension from Matco, as well as a 17mm impact universal socket.) Point your impact gun at it and enjoy.  It'll be al little harder without an impact gun, but still do-able.   Yes, that 17mm bolt behind the clutch fork boot has to come out.  Remove the 12mm bolts holding the slave cylinder to the tranny and you'll be able to get right to that bolt.  Theres a few 14mm bolts too- they're varying lengths, so keep track of what goes where.

Oh, and I'd remove the radiator to give yourself some extra clearance up front if you haven't already.  I always just unhook the harness from the ECU in the kick panel and pull it thru the firewall.  Unhook the 17mm banjo bolt on the BACK of the fuel filter and the fuel return line.  That way you can leave the entire intake manifold attached to the engine and remove it later.  Leave the AC compressor and Power Steering pump in the truck- they come off pretty easily if you haven't already figured that out.

Hope that helps...

Ryan

[hdrisc]

If your gonna do a rebuild you can pull the head w/intake-exhaust manifolds attached. Then there will be tons of room in there.

[yotatilla [OP]]

Thanks guys, I kinda figured that you guys would know what you were doing. Yeah, I don't have an impact gun, so I have been turning the bolts the old fashioned way. I have just been using a 1/2 drive Craftsman ratchet. It wasnt too hard once I got and angle on the bolts. I disconnected the wiring harness under the hood, at every little plug. I labled them all, so I shouldnt be up the creek when I go to put it back in. I like the transfercase crossmember idea. I have to remove the crossmember anyway, I kinda snagged a rock on it and it nearly removed itself. I have taken the air chamber off, and that has helped. Someone mentioned removing the starter, and I was wondering if this is necesary, because unhooking it was hard as hell, and I can only imagine gettin it out of there. Thanks for the plans.


Sam

[casej21]

on my first yota I drilled holes through the fire wall made it super easy and on my truck now I got a 1in body lift and it makes it easier also. also having ratcheting wrenches makes it a breeze.

[jimbo74]

now that i have a 3" bodylift, i can actually get my ginormous hands in there... i only have liek a 2 click arc on the ratchet so it takes awhile but i can do it.....

before i had the bodylift, i swapped out my motor.... what i did then was use a socket with about 3 feet long of extension and a swivel.... basically, i was able to get a ratchet on it around the driveshaft area and the extension made the socket contact the bolt....

[reklund5]

Yes, you MUST remove the starter- it bolts thru the dustshield on the back of the engine block, and into the trans bellhousing. 

Ryan

[jimbo74]

Yes, you MUST remove the starter- it bolts thru the dustshield on the back of the engine block, and into the trans bellhousing.

Ryan

oh yeah, i forgot about that one...... yeah i was trying to get my truck all apart to drop the tranny a coupel weeks ago... and was liek crap.... so istarted feelign all around the outside of the case... and was like hmmmm.... there are holes here and i didnt remove bolts.... sure enough the bolts came through from the starterside......

[toyo487]

I have done this 3 times on my old 94, just use a 3ft extension with a wably socket.  I never had to remove the crossmember.  the key is the LONG extension.  Makes it a lot easier, and less to take of and put back on when the job is done.  I could pull my 22RE in about 1.5 hr this way

[Riddett]

The long extension is the way to go 1/2" with long extension with MAC 1/2" impact. Watch out for the universal
joint.

You can also loosen the transmission from the crossmember and jack up on the rear of the trans until it hits the floor board this gives you about an extra 2" between the firewall and valve cover... make sure your are loosing and not tightening!

[speedemon]

this is what worked for me:

Quit working so damn hard. Taking those bolts out from the top is way too hard to fuss with.

Drop the t-case crossmember and let the tail of transfer case hang down a few inches. Get yourself a 36" long extension and a 17mm wobbly socket. (I use a 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive reducing extension from Matco, as well as a 17mm impact universal socket.) Point your impact gun at it and enjoy. It'll be al little harder without an impact gun, but still do-able. Yes, that 17mm bolt behind the clutch fork boot has to come out. Remove the 12mm bolts holding the slave cylinder to the tranny and you'll be able to get right to that bolt. Theres a few 14mm bolts too- they're varying lengths, so keep track of what goes where.

Oh, and I'd remove the radiator to give yourself some extra clearance up front if you haven't already. I always just unhook the harness from the ECU in the kick panel and pull it thru the firewall. Unhook the 17mm banjo bolt on the BACK of the fuel filter and the fuel return line. That way you can leave the entire intake manifold attached to the engine and remove it later. Leave the AC compressor and Power Steering pump in the truck- they come off pretty easily if you haven't already figured that out.

Hope that helps...

Ryan