Topic: 22r timing?

[teambeer1]

    i had to fix a bad piston last weekend.  set TDC, marked the dist, dist drive gear, timing chain, and sprocket, all before tearing down.  noticed that the shinny links were not at the dot on the chain spocket, but one link away.  the truck ran ok before i pulled the piston, and it timed good.  now when its all back together, i cant get the darn thing to time correct.  at first i thought it was just a tooth off on the dist shaft, but after two days of trying, im starting to think that the timing chain may be off a tooth.  Is it possible that the truck ran fine with the chain off a tooth?  why would it not run now back the same way.  is it possible to fix without doing teardown?  please help trying to get done for 4th this weekend.

[germ]

Did you jumper the connectors on the driverside firewall? (Sorry, can't remember their exact name) I know you need to do this before setting the timing, or it won't work right.

From what i can see, everything looks put together correctly (although I must admit I'm not an expert on this).

Good Luck
erik

[teambeer1 [OP]]

ok scratch the chain being off.  i just spent the last 30 min cranking the motor over checking the cam sprocket every cycle, got the shinny links at the mark on the sprocket.  so im assuming the timming chain is not off a link.  its got to be that im off a tooth with the dist.

[Duffil]

you can't really go by the chain anyway, it will be off after a couple of turns, just check your crank and cam and dissy...
in my exp. anyway...

[teambeer1 [OP]]

             This is really starting to piss me off!!!!!  The timing is definately on, there are only so many ways you can have #1 firing at TDC.  I have no idea why it wont run.  Maybe carb, or vacume? 

 I have spark, timing, fuel from the pump, valves at .007 and .011.  It will fire, but not idle, and I have to have it like 20 degs. advanced to keep it running to read the timing.  when dist. moved back to get it a 0 deg. it runns real rough and dies.  still sounds like timming to me, but the dist. is where it sould be, the cam sprocket lines up with the crank notch, i marked everything before dissasembling anything.  I just dont get it.  I'm about to give up on this motor.  it was a quick fix trying to get it to last me this short summer till I can replace it with either a rebuilt 22r or preferably a 22re.  it should run.   Just replaced one piston cause previous owner rebuilt motor with cheap cast piston rings.(gee they broke!) got smashed against the head, and killed #4 piston.  only replaced the one piston and rings.  everything else went on as it came off, only cleaner.  now it wont time for nothing.     
HELP

[BUBBA]

And you have checked to make sure that the plug wires are correct.The shiny links in the chain are for when you intially install it.Set the crank a O and check the mark on the cam sprocket  to the mark on the on the head behind it.

[teambeer1 [OP]]

yes the plug wires are correct.  ive checked them over and over and over and over.  the marks all line up.  could this possibly be the pickups in the distributor?  or maybe bad mechanical advance inside dist.? 

[Duffil]

yeah, the dissy could be junk...do you have a spare to check it with?

[Toyminator]

             It will fire, but not idle, and I have to have it like 20 degs. advanced to keep it running to read the timing.  when dist. moved back to get it a 0 deg. it runns real rough and dies. 

That is exactly what happens when you are one tooth off on the distributor.

[teambeer1 [OP]]

OK,  i got it to run, but it still wont idle.  if you stay on the gas, it sounds pretty good except for an exhaust leak.  Could this exhaust leak cause it to not idle?  Wouldn't an exhaust leak make it run a little bit higher and nicer but sound like sh*t?
                it is at TDC the dot and the dowel, and the grove in the cam chain sprocket, and the crank pully all point up.  the timming light flashes at  about 5degs to get it to run smoothly.  The rotor is pointing at 11:00, and the drill hole on the dist. shaft drive gear is at about 11:55.
       It will stay running if im on the throttle.  but if I let go , it putters and dies.  I put my finger on the mech fuel pump line into the carb, and it wasn't powerfull enough to squirt out, but when i let go it shot out pretty good.  poured gas into carb, didn't show any difference.
           Could the carb be bad , vacume?  dirty?

[teambeer1 [OP]]

 I noticed the  gas in the window on the carb is almost to the top.  could this be my problem?  will this flood the carb and make it not idle?

[Duffil]

it could be...the level should be in between the two metal ears on the sight glass...if its really high, fuel will pour out of the bowl vent and go down your secondary.  did you turn the carb upside down when it was off? bad move if so...try getting it running at about 2000-2500 rpm and clamp off your fuel line...let it run out of fuel...do this a couple of times, and if there is something stuck in/on the needle and seat, this can dislodge it.  also, float could have a hole in it. it only started doing this after you pulled the carb, right..IE, it was OK before? 

EDIT: if you banged or dropped the carb while it was off, it could've changed the float level setting, which would cause your high level.

[shad]

Have you checked your choke out? If your choke ain't working it won't idle. Also check your main engine fuse under the dash it's a 15 amp fuse. Mine blew and it wouldn't idle changed the fuse and the choke worked again and it idled.

[79coyotefrg]

  ok,  with timing cover on and crank pully timing mark at 0*,  your cam gear mark should be just to the left of 12 oclock, like 1/2 a tooth    with the cam set here install the dist, with the rotor pointing at the vacuum advance thingy, aka #1 post,  check to make sure fuel cut solenoid is getting current,  then start that puppy up and drive off into the sunset 

[teambeer1 [OP]]

Thanks for the help.  I've narrowed it down to the carb.  It was dirty as hell inside.  Pulled it , rebuilt it,  now  i just need a picture of the linkage attached to the throttle and choke.  I think i got it right, but it just dosen't look right to me.  just want to make sure its right before installing carb.   
       And to all who helped me the lasr couple of weeks.  My timing was correct this whole time.  the reason it wasent timming correctly, (MAN I FEEL STUPID)           i was on the throttle to keep the motor running.    Thus advancing the timming so i couldnt get a correct reading.      
        Problem was dirty dirty carb.