Author Topic: connecting rods caps/crankshaft question  (Read 10349 times)

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79coyotefrg

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Re: connecting rods caps/crankshaft question
« on: Jul 18, 2009, 08:19:25 AM »
Its not always 100% true that it will spin smoothly with new bearings in.  The initial torque down if done incorrectly can and will cause it to bind.  Just install new caps and bearing then torque it in correct order and in increments.  Meaning if its suppose to be say 100 FT pounds of torque then do it they way I learned.  This applies to everything you do imo.   tighten to 50% of max torque then 75% and finally to 100%. This insures an even lay down of all the parts. Remember that on 22R blocks it says to torque it to I think its 58 ft pounds for crank bearings.  Not 100% on that, BUT you always take it another 45 degrees past that. Book may say 90. Too tired to remember.  Just read the fsm carefully.
:nonono:  not on a 22r you dont,   a v6 yes thats the procedure but NOT a 22R

thanks a lot 79coyotefrg i put on the old bearings just to check if that was it and my crank twisted real smooth. thanks
double check the sizes on the new bearings and old bearings,   if the old ones say "std"  they are standard=stock size,    if they say 25mm or .010 (inches)  then they are "undersize bearings (for a crank thats been "turned down"  and will cause it to bind down


double check that all the bearing caps are on correctly, as OOPS  said if you have them on wrong this will cause binding also

the small notches on the bearing should be on the same side
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

 
 
 
 
 

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