Installing A 2 Inch Bodylift
Lifting The Cab
Step 1
If this is your 1st time at attempting installing a body lift or just want to refresh your memory read the entire installation instructions, this will give you an insight to what may be required and you’ll be prepared for any issues that may arise during the installation process. This will also help keep an eye on critical areas of concern.
Step 2
Disconnect both battery cables, there are 2 reasons for this. The first is safety, we don’t want to short anything out that may create more issues for you. Plus when installing the lift those wires may end up being a little short and again cause a short.
Step 3
Remove the shifter boot, doorsill plates and kick panels. Lift the carpet and remove all the cab mount covers. Loosen but do not remove all the cab bolts just enough for some slack.
Step 4
(NOTE: This is where I deviate from the manual, and it is your choice to follow their method or mine. Mine is not the correct way to do this but I’ve never had an issue)I do not remove the steering shaft I only loosen the top and bottom bolts so they can slide out as you do the lift.
Step 5 Loosen the clamp just behind the grill for the power steering that holds the lines, push the line towards the firewall.
Step 6
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the radiator to the firewall, it is not necessary to remove the radiator just set it against the fan.
Step 7
Remove the bumper and lower valance, if you don’t have the lower valance or the plastic side trim on the bumper you can just leave the bumper on.
Step 8
Take a good look around the vehicle between the frame and body, if anything looks like it may bind when lifting loosen it from either the body or frame to keep it from pulling tight.
Step 9
Release the clutch line from the clip on the lower portion of the firewall
Step 10
Release the brake lines from the clips at the calipers allowing the rubber section to pull through.
[note: There are 2 critical areas to watch very carefully, the clutch line and the brake line on the drivers side. These 2 locations will tighten up and the brake line will kink if you don’t keep an eye on it.]
Step 11
Remove the cab mounting bolts from the passenger side of the cab, including the one under the core support. Double check for any wires, hoses, cables or anything that may not have enough slack and will be too short. Using a floor jack and a wooden block slowly lift the side of the cab just enough to slide the spacers in, be sure to constantly check for any wires, cables , hoses for binding. Once in place also install all the bolts, washers and nuts and snug up the bolts but do not tighten them.
[note: Knock the factory top washers off the old bolts you will reuse them, they are a critical component when installing the new bolts. Just take a large deep socket and hammer them off and install them on the new bolts.]
Step 12
Repeat step 11 for the drivers side of the cab, double checking to make sure no wires, hoses, cables are binding. Now tighten all the bolts on both the drivers and passenger sides.
Step 13
Check the lines that were moved or loosened and re-secure them, you can twist the brake lines you will notice that there is a loop in them twisting (do not pull) will give you enough slack to reinstall the clips. On the clutch line you will need to bend the bracket that is attached to the transmission bell housing enough to give it slack, you do not want it to be tight.
Step 14
Install the new radiator brackets in the original location and attach your radiator to them.
Step 15
Tighten the bottom and top bolts on the steering shaft making sure that it didn’t slide out too far, if it did you can slide it up or down to center it in the cups. If it seems that they will not be secure you will need to refer to the installation instructions by the lift manufacturer and follow those instructions.
Step 16
Reinstall the front bumper and valance with the new front bumper mounts in the kit. If you didn’t remove the bumper since you didn’t have the valance or the rubber bumper ends you can leave it just like it is or you can move the bumper up if you like.
Step 17
Make sure all body bolts are tight and that there is no last minute adjustments on any points that need to be done. Replace the body bolt covers, carpet, kick panels, doorsills and the center console boot and bracket.
Step 18
Check for gear shifter clearances, make you can cycle though all the gears in 2wd and 4wd hi and low ranges. There is usually no problems with a 2” lift, but with a 3” the shifters usually hit the edges of the floor pan and have to be cut. In some cases the transmission shifter boot will bump the t-case shifter when in low 4wd and bump it out of low. To fix this just push the transmission shifter boot past the large section of the shifter and leave it there. This will keep it from bumping the t-case boot.
If everything went well you now have created 2 inches of lift for the cab of your rig but were not quite done yet unless you were lifting a 4Runner, so on to lifting the bed.
