About equal to a clutch job I would say.. Gotta pull the trans out, remove the nose cone, pop out the old seal, hit the shaft with some sand paper, grease the new seal and install it...............
OHH THIS REMINDS ME!! With that Real T/Case output seal we were talking about, MAKE SURE that when ever you install a new seal, from cam to axle seals, that you GREASE THE NEW SEAL! This is important!! Just pack the groove with some grease and then put the seal in place.
...........then put everything back together. You dont have to drain trans or tc oil and in fact dont even separate the tc from the trans. Heck, even keep the crossmember bolted to the tc.
Heres some steps to give you an idea, and Im sure i will miss something:1) Disconnect the battery.
2) Pull the ebrake or put down some blocks at the tires.
3) Shift the trans into 4th and tcase into 4WD high and pull the shifters out from the cab.
4) Remove speedocable from t/case and unplug reverse and 4WD light wires.
5) Unbolt rear driveline from t/case, and completely remove front drive line. Either mark the slip yokes or be sure that they do not come apart or your drive lines will be out of balance.
6) If this is an IFS, it may help to get the sway bar out of the way. That could be a pain later.
7) Unbolt starter and let it rest next to the block with wires attached. (that's why we disconnect the battery)
8 ) Unbolt clutch slave cylinder and let it hang around. Never undo any fluid pressure lines unless your replacing it.
9) Place a tranny jack under the crossmember and remove all 8 frame bolts.
10) Unbolt all visible bellhousing to engine bolts. Also check if you still have the exhaust hanger mount and remove that if necessary.
11) Lower the entire tcase/trans/engine down a bit with the jack so you can access the two upper 17mm bolts atop the bellhousing with a very long extension and your strongest air gun.
12) Now using help from someone else, or try to do it Rambo style and use your feet and apply pressure to the floor jack while your arms shake and pull the transmission off of the clutch disk and lower to your chest. The Trans weighs 100 dry, tcase is 80 dry, and add the crossmember. What ever oil is left is gotta be at least 10 lbs or so. Remember the jack will be supporting alot of the weight and you can handle the rest your self.
13) Now set the trans to your side and on the ground and climb out from underneath the rig. Slide the trans/tcase outta there and go to work on it.
14) Tilt the whole thing up a bit and rest it against a box or something. This is so the oil will not run out when we remove the nose cone.
15) Remove the clutch fork and release bearing. The clip can sometimes be tricky if its your first time so note how it comes off and be sure to put it back on correctly.
16) Get yourself a 12mm and remove the bolts to the nose cone and take the nose cone off. Its sometimes sticky from the silicone and a light tap with a soft rubber hammer to the side of the cone where the bearing slides is ok.
17) Now carefully use a flat head screw driver and remove the old seal. Be sure not to scratch and scar the input shaft or your screwed.
18) Lap some sand paper on the input shaft and put some grease on the new seal and slap it on. Make sure its mounted flat and even all around.
19) Now just do everything in reverse order.
Some notes on reinstalling:-Make sure when you reseal the nose cone, that the mating surfaces are clean from any oil. Spray some brake or carb cleaner on a clean rag and wipe down the two surfaces before using silicone.
-I recommend against Blue and Orange silicone and advise Toyota Black or Super Gray silicone.
-After the nose cone is back on, if you are not in the presence of a politician (aka environmentalist) blow out everywhere inside the bellhousing and blow out all the dust from the clutch.
-Make sure you regrease the shift fork in three places: Where the ball joint pivots on the fork, and at the end of the two fingers of the fork where it touches the release bearing.
-If you have some antiseaze, its a nice idea to apply a meager amount to the splines of the trans input so the clutch disk can move freely.
-Remember we shifted the tcase and trans into gear before removing it? well that's because this can sometimes be the nastiest part right here: When you are installing the trans, you've gotta get both the angle correct and the splines to line up for the trans input to clutch disk before it wil install. So get some help, or again if you are he-man, brace the trans with your knee caps, and while one hand is turning the front output flange on the tcase, use your other hand to "gustimate" the correct approach angle of the input and use your knees to support and lift the trans into place. If you are a regular joe like me, then use your brain power and use a couple of floor jacks to get it into place while you turn the flanges to align the splines. It can be a bugger and your arms will turn to spaghetti but dont give up! keep trying or your have to do it all over again with tired arms.
I think thats a good summary. Im sure we will get 101 more suggestions but thats a idea of the job. It'll take ya all day if its your first time so plan for a whole day and dont rush it. Take your time and learn how things work. Your be a happier man when its all done
BigMike
