Topic: Message #193506

[speedemon]

this is what worked for me:

Quit working so damn hard. Taking those bolts out from the top is way too hard to fuss with.

Drop the t-case crossmember and let the tail of transfer case hang down a few inches. Get yourself a 36" long extension and a 17mm wobbly socket. (I use a 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive reducing extension from Matco, as well as a 17mm impact universal socket.) Point your impact gun at it and enjoy. It'll be al little harder without an impact gun, but still do-able. Yes, that 17mm bolt behind the clutch fork boot has to come out. Remove the 12mm bolts holding the slave cylinder to the tranny and you'll be able to get right to that bolt. Theres a few 14mm bolts too- they're varying lengths, so keep track of what goes where.

Oh, and I'd remove the radiator to give yourself some extra clearance up front if you haven't already. I always just unhook the harness from the ECU in the kick panel and pull it thru the firewall. Unhook the 17mm banjo bolt on the BACK of the fuel filter and the fuel return line. That way you can leave the entire intake manifold attached to the engine and remove it later. Leave the AC compressor and Power Steering pump in the truck- they come off pretty easily if you haven't already figured that out.

Hope that helps...

Ryan