Author Topic: 1979 Long Bed 3.4 Swap/Build  (Read 2842 times)

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accountant_mechanic_

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
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I have been doing a ton of research on all parts of this swap, basically it looks like there are several factors to consider, I'll try to list the main ones below

Mounting the engine:
I just got off the phone with the guys from Hired Gun Offroad to talk about their 3.4 swap mounts (which can be found here on their website https://www.hiredgunoffroad.com/product/34_swap_mounts). After talking with them it appears that I will have to use the 3.0 brackets that go from the motor to the motor mount as well as the 3.0 motor mounts. This is because these mounts are narrower than the 3.4 mounts and will need to be slimmer in order to fit into the '79 frame. It also looks like I'll have to cut out the old motor mounts and weld in these new ones- which are low enough that I should not need a body lift to fit the 5VZ under the hood. It should be noted that I will also have to get some kind of rear-sump oil pan kit so that my oil pan does not interfere with the hi-steer rods. Speaking of steering, I will have to be careful as to how I mount the steering box because clearance will be limited for the steering shaft to run down the side of the motor.

Exhaust:
This one is a little tricky- I have the standard 5VZ crossover pipe that comes over the bell housing from the drivers to the passengers side. The only issue(s) that I can see with this is trying to run the exhaust back because the dual cases that I am using have the passenger side drop for the front driveshaft. The e-brake pulley is also on that side. As long as there is clearance for everything to live overe there and not give me a headache I am going to leave it. The alternative is to get a drivers side crossover pipe (like the one found here https://www.yotashop.com/toyota-3-4l-5vz-95-01-swap-crossover-exhaust-pipe-drivers-side-drop-kit-1043/?gclid=CjwKCAjwy42FBhB2EiwAJY0yQlBmtMeaV_pIi2msXePEQRR6RA54tJDAQqHTpRUsMCXvC-7zCfKGrRoCf08QAvD_BwE) and run it down the drivers side. Don't really want to eat that cost up just yet so I'll have to do some test fitting and see for myself how it all fits.

Wiring:
I have almost everything that I can think that I'll need from the donor ASIDE FROM THE ABS box. I sent the guys at ORS an email asking how to avoid throwing a check engine code for not running the ABS box clipped in and they told me to unplug the light from the dash.. No joke https://imgur.com/a/tPuD0oj so I'm not really sure what to do there. If I can get away with not plugging in the box and finding a way to trick the computer that's what I'd like to do. If I have to use the box then I'll hope to just cap off the lines and call it good since there's no freakin' way I'm going to get the ABS to work on my truck, nor would I even want to. The rest of the wiring should be fairly straight forward plug and play. I will have to figure out little things like mounting the 2000 cluster in the 1979 dash and the steering column controls/ignition cylinder. I'll also have to wire up the dome light and the door speakers but that's about it.

Transmission:
As far as I can tell I just need to buy the adapter to run my dual-cases with the R150. I already have the dual cases mounted using the Low Range Offroad crossmember, so I might have to cut the bracket and re-weld it to get better placement of the engine within the bay, but at the moment I am not going to worry about it. The more important thing is to ensure that I don't have to cut any more holes in my cab to run more shifters- that thing is starting to look like swiss cheese.

Again if there's anything that you think I've missed please let me know! Thanks!
Noah
Instagram @accountant_mechanic_

 
 
 
 
 

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