Author Topic: Mechanical Terminology  (Read 5725 times)

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95TacoTruck

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Mechanical Terminology
« on: Apr 24, 2003, 02:22:39 PM »
I was reading an article which stated that if I take my 83 block and deck it 2mm it will be identical to the 85 block, Im assuming that decking is taking 2mm off the top but Im not positive.  someone please clarify and if so would any machine shop be able to do it
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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WHITE_TRASH

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #1 on: Apr 24, 2003, 04:46:51 PM »
you got it :thumb:bt deck they in fact do mean the head sealing surface of the block.  and yes every machine shop should be able to do it.
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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cruzila

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #2 on: Apr 27, 2003, 03:24:47 PM »
Sooooo.......what the  :psss: are you gonna do run race gas?
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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84runner

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #3 on: Apr 27, 2003, 04:05:08 PM »
Crusila has a good point you messin with compression there big guy.  More compression measns more power but to much means pinging. Check that compression ratio.
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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gferris5

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #4 on: Apr 28, 2003, 08:17:04 AM »
Nah, deck it .020 and then run two head gaskets.  I'm kidding of course.  It'd be so nice to think that you can just do one thing at a time to a motor and be like, voila, performance, but once you start with some goal like a higher compression ration, you're looking at such a greater commitment of other parts and ultimately, money.  Now, it is a good idea to have it decked, honed and all that if you're doing a rebuild if it needs it, just send your bottom end to the machine shop so the don't end up building you something to run on alcohol or diesel.
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #5 on: Apr 28, 2003, 03:38:20 PM »
Soooooooo any ideas on how much decking the block 2mm will rise the comp. ratio? ball park? from stock of say 8.5 to? :dunno:
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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Cracker

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #6 on: Apr 28, 2003, 06:12:04 PM »
This is just a guess, but I think I remember hearing some where between 10:1 & 10.5:1.... ???
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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gferris5

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #7 on: Apr 29, 2003, 04:27:32 AM »
it depends somewhat on your pistons too, what are your actual plans for the motor?
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #8 on: Apr 29, 2003, 06:08:04 AM »
it will put your conpress the same as an 85. .020 is hardly any thing. if your going to do that then get on 85 head. they have better flow. you will see a difference in power.
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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95TacoTruck [OP]

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #9 on: Apr 29, 2003, 11:10:01 AM »
Yes it would only put the compression where an 85 Should be so it wouldnt be a big thing.!
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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5spd

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #10 on: Apr 29, 2003, 12:44:14 PM »
Have the timing cover done at the same time, dont want to shave the block and find that the TC is to tall now...when you try to put the head on... :smack:
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »

79coyotefrg

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #11 on: Apr 29, 2003, 12:45:19 PM »
Quote
it will put your conpress the same as an 85. .020 is hardly any thing. if your going to do that then get on 85 head. they have better flow. you will see a difference in power.

he said 2 mm,  not  .020
if you mill your block 2mm you will have   12:1 compression or higher depending on your pistons
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #12 on: Apr 29, 2003, 12:48:44 PM »
but yea if your going to use a 85 head ,
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #13 on: Apr 29, 2003, 02:07:09 PM »
My thought on the 2mm was piston hitting head wham! Dang where is that atom bomb smiley :screwy:


.020 is .5mm. Certainly that should be within factory tolerance.
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #14 on: Apr 29, 2003, 02:21:35 PM »
OK
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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brainlessfool

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #15 on: Apr 29, 2003, 03:42:13 PM »
ok. So .020= .5mm. so then 2mm=.080 0k thats not to big a decking:ack: how about the chain slack? you'll have an extra .160 of chain to take up too
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #16 on: Apr 29, 2003, 09:12:16 PM »
doubt it so you should run a adjustable timing gear so the cam advadance will be right..The tensioner will or should take up that slack but the cam will still be off...
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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79coyotefrg

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #17 on: Apr 30, 2003, 12:42:41 AM »
the only way 2mm could be taken off that 83 block is to use the 85 head, but would still would have to have the adjustable cam gear, if you want more flow than your 83 head gives,  dont go with the 85 use a 20 r head and intake, and a 38 weber, lc headers,
you, would have to use 85 model pistons too
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #18 on: Apr 30, 2003, 12:49:14 AM »
Quote
My thought on the 2mm was piston hitting head wham! Dang where is that atom bomb smiley :screwy:


:thud:like a sledge hammer :thud:
if it didnt hit,  he'd have to run nitromethane fuel

actually the picture i have in my head is a toy hood with little bitty peices of head sticking out
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

84runner

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #19 on: Apr 30, 2003, 04:55:38 AM »
Call LC Engineering and speak to a tech there, that would be your best bet.
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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cruzila

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #20 on: Apr 30, 2003, 10:34:06 AM »
and I thought this thread was going to be about tech terms. or not so tech terms, you know like what do call this:
thingy
do-hicky
screwy screw
etc.
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #21 on: Apr 30, 2003, 03:43:29 PM »
Well ok, I found this"thingy" under the awwww hood? of the truck. Its kinda dirty and got some oil in it and water too. how can this be?  Oil and water dont mix.  and its got these rubber ropes? going around the front of it. rubber tubes too, some going to the front of the truck and some small ones going to the back. any ideas? :hahaha:  well I am brainless:hahaha:
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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84runner

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #22 on: Apr 30, 2003, 06:48:05 PM »
I found this thingamajigger on mine right next to the blinker fluid resvor, just above the fuel injected brake lines, right between the duel chrome dipsticks. Its getting hot from the muffler bearings, any help identifying this thing would be great, someone said a canuederod, but I'm not sure.   :scratch: :screwy: :dunno:
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #23 on: Apr 30, 2003, 08:24:50 PM »
why do you feel you have to ruin this post with stupid questions like that 84runner??? :maddest:
its a piston pull back spring every A.S.E. mechanic knows that ;)
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #24 on: May 01, 2003, 01:14:03 AM »
Ah, yes we digress into complete chaos..............
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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gferris5

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #25 on: May 01, 2003, 06:37:59 AM »
OOh, you guys are all talking about the ever suspicious rotary girder, which is next to the radiator timing device.  try to keep that in mind.  Oh by the way, I'm the only one who said anything about decking it .020 cause that sounded reasonable.  whereas decking it 2 millies would definitely cause the rotary girder to explode.
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
85' 4Runner- SWAPPED--Dodge Caravan IFS-front and rear, 235R13's on each corner, hubcaps. Toyota Corona drivetrain swap. Locked, left and right side doors, with the windows up.

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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #26 on: May 01, 2003, 03:17:08 PM »
Ya I called the dealer and asked them. The proper term White_Trash is "piston return spring"
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
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Re: Mechanical Terminology
« Reply #27 on: May 01, 2003, 04:38:21 PM »
Dangit wring again :smack: dont worry im sure itll happen again :slap:
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by 1056988800 »
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

 
 
 
 
 

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