Author Topic: NEW GUY dumb? questions... 85 model on the cheap  (Read 3732 times)

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turbo this..

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NEW GUY dumb? questions... 85 model on the cheap
« on: Oct 15, 2014, 04:56:00 AM »
Ok well this is the first ive seen of this forum and it looks a grate place to have stumbled into..

being a new guy i think i should intro myself a bit names josh im in aus and bought a weekend toy to play with basically as my real hobby is classic minis more so the turbo charged one im building atm big grins to come with that back to the 4x4...

so its an 85 diesel the idea is that me and some mates decided to get a truck each and have a weekend comp between us lol best all round truck for less than $4000 all in cost not including rego ect just buying the truck and modding it

anyways not sure if this is the place for a build post or what ever but i have a lot of questions regarding bang for buck and just general dumb new guy stuff!!  :clap:


Nation

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http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?board=7.0

Welcome! I always say start with gears and lockers. These dang trucks will go almost anywhere with bigger tires and lockers. Money well spent there.
3RZ, LC engineering Turbo kit, R151, Dual Ultimate, Yota axles-5:29s, Spartan front, LSD Rear

turbo this.. [OP]

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cheers, what do you mean by gears? are you talking final drive or t case?
im i correct to post a kind of show us yours/ask a bunch of questions relating to my build in here? guess so as thats the propa hilux section haha

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?board=37.0  ???

i think if i make one post that hold all the info on my rig and what my plains are it will help you experinced guys help me out i dont see the point in posting a million shitty bits every where that have no suporting info to help adress my qustion if that makes sence 

Nation

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Differential gears and lockers. 
« Last Edit: Oct 16, 2014, 08:43:15 AM by NATION »
3RZ, LC engineering Turbo kit, R151, Dual Ultimate, Yota axles-5:29s, Spartan front, LSD Rear

chim

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If you stay with 31" tires you can just get a rear locker and go most anywhere... Then focus on armor to protect your investment.

turbo this.. [OP]

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ahh ok so what  ratio would some one that still wants to do 100kph/62mph on the road to and from trails chose
i really dont care what the on road is like to much as it will literally only see roads to and from only its just a weekend toy
so long as the final drive and tire size wont kill the old diesel 
my daily is an 87 2wd  :driving:


turbo this.. [OP]

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maby im better to go small on rubber and lose the side wall flex and other things gained by big rubber and put that grand or so into proper lockers and making it flex?

is there a section on example builds on the cheep?

im not wanting to re invent the wheel but just do what others have proven to work

locktup

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Everyone has an opinion on whats the best thing to start with. For what you are doing I think building axles first is the way to go. R&P's, lockers, front axles & cv's and high steer.

Jason
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www.LOCKTUPFABRICATION.com

1985CRAWLER

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im not wanting to re invent the wheel but just do what others have proven to work

31-33" tires,rear locker, some armor (sliders,bumpers,etc),make some home brew spring packs with more travel, freshen the motor up and wheel it, you will in time find out what else you want it to have like dual cases, bigger tires, and what not.

all depends on what u want it to be?  full blown crawler? or just a weekend little wheeler for light trails/hunting rig.
low n' slow 85 runner SR5 22re,rcvs ,Duals,5.29s,Detroits f&r,40s,RUF,Chevy 63 rears,Armored,Cage

bobbed and beat 91 ex cab,3RZ swapped,dual ultimates, dana 44 sas 5.38/5.29 combo,37s, RUF, 63 rears,ARB front, detroit rear,cage

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=96250.msg1073007;topicseen#msg1073007

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=26920.390

4-lo

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If i read it correctly this guy is from Australia.  Why would he want more meat if they have more mud and dunes to play with then rocks.. Shouldn't he be wanting more pony under the hood and just long travels.

turbo this.. [OP]

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to be honest where i am there is a pretty good range of terrain

i think what i want is the most flex i can get and try for some ground clearance to get the diffs up outa the mud and from getting hung up

i should take some vid of the terrain we play on next time they go out

turbo this.. [OP]

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so what is the best starting point for a strong diff with out going into fabricated parts?

ive got a 50mm? the larger size axles and a hub kit there on the rack just need the center rebuild bits but can buy those with the gears and locker
im thinking the 50mm or better than the 45mm?

ive got the rea diff there to from the same truck as the larger front one dono if that the same or different as the one i have in the truck?


4-lo

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You can not get away without changing the gears.  And since your doing the gears you might want to add a locker in it at the same time to save labor later. 

Here is the chart for running gears and tire desire:

https://www.marlincrawler.com/differential/ring-pinion

turbo this.. [OP]

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ahh nice i see its only a 700 rpm difference in 5th gear doing 60mph between 4.1 5.7 gears on 35s i thought it would be much more than that any reason not to whack 5.7 gears in there? yes i will be putting lockers in and seals ect while im there i want to do things once

prob weld the back end and Detroit true trac the front? basically down to cost for the back end might swap it out for something better down the track

in terms of diffs what are the advantages of say air where it locks 1:1 when you want and open the rest vs say the Detroit tru trac where its always biasing torque to the best wheel?

i know on a front wheel drive road car the Detroit is freakin' amazing i can come into the corners hard and put the power on during the first 1/3 or the turn! the torque bias to the outside wheel litarly pulls the car around the Conner helping turn it while your foot is hard on the floor and all with next to no inside wheel spin to truly awesome and the best money ive spent on the mini beside the turbo bit




4-lo

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If you do day to day driving with this truck then the selectable lockers will be best if your budgets in place, it will save the life on your tires and since its a rear wheel drive you dont want that rear to lock up at all time.

helipilot77

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Most people avoid using 5.71 gears because at that ratio that pinion gear has to be so small that it breaks easily.
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-t turbo diesel with mech. pump
 & custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
-1984 SR5 Tercel 4wd wagon bone stock - given to my nephew https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100547.0
-1:10 scale RC 4wd crawler w/yota axles, R2 2 speed enclosed dig tranny and 1st gen 4Runner body by BigBird
-My front axle service write-up http://board.marlincrawler.com/i

turbo this.. [OP]

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its a weekend worrier only roads it will see are to and from trails

just looked and i dont think i can get 5.7 gears for my truck anyways so it would be 4.3 didn't think about that

at 450 for both sets of gears would it be better to just do the transfer box with 4.7 crawl? it wont affect the road gears not that it matters anyway

i do like the idea of going slow and having the truck flex to stay stable vs full throttle rock bouncing action that brakes everything unless its 10 grand worth of drive line


helipilot77

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You should be able to get a set of aftermarket 5.29's
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-t turbo diesel with mech. pump
 & custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
-1984 SR5 Tercel 4wd wagon bone stock - given to my nephew https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100547.0
-1:10 scale RC 4wd crawler w/yota axles, R2 2 speed enclosed dig tranny and 1st gen 4Runner body by BigBird
-My front axle service write-up http://board.marlincrawler.com/i

turbo this.. [OP]

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what are your thoughts on these 35s?  182 each seem good for 35s

http://www.tyretrader.com.au/15-inch-tyre-c4/kumho-35x12.5r15-113q-kl71-p1179

4-lo

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even better if its 4.56 or 4.88 running gears.

84Flatbed

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BPINAZ

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Welcome to the Toyota world. Sounds like you have a good base to start with. I ran 35's with just 4:37's for a long time, but I really didn't drive it much on the road. Like the other guys said, gearing and lockers is money well spent. However, you would be better off with duals, 4.7 and 2.28, just my thoughts.
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough. I've got the scars to prove it

 
 
 
 
 

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