Topic: East coast 3rd gen SAS....

[blackb13se-r]

Nice! U ever hear back on those tires?

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Nope. Never heard back about the tires didn't forget about them either . Just havnt spoke with him in a while. He should be home from collage soon so for sure Ill let you know bud. Ive got 17's and I think he still has the 16.5" military goodyears so I cant use them

[blackb13se-r]

Cool thanks.

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Alright guys just picked up my rear 3rd today. Over the net few days Im goin to get it all ready to roll under while redoing everything while its apart. New wheel bearing, full brakes and got a set of Eco seals for the back end after seeing how impressive the fronts were. The only thing I over looked were diff studs.  The ones that I took out to clean up the housing were trashed anyway. So any thoughts on which way to go with em ? Should I go ahead and just get a set of stud eliminators and if so any ideas on a good product? Or should I just stick with the factory studs. At this point I may aswell upgrade if its worth wild. I don't see having to have my rear apart all that often. But thought Id get some options.                       And also Im going to break down one of my front D. shafts to clearance the c.v. I have both my factory IFS aswell as an 83' FSA. My plan was just to throw the earlier shaft in for a few weeks till I can get a few $'s together to get one of them lengthed. My question is should I just go ahead with the SA shaft and clearance it and use that one for a base for longer shaft when Im ready. Or is there any advantage to clearance one over the other? I know about the operating angle being better with the 83' and would clearance either one I would end up using    Thanks fellas

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

So looks like the stock studs are probably out. The only place I could find them around here was from Toyota and they were $3 a piece not including the hardware   would have been $40 something $'s for them when I can get an eliminator kit for less. Only one I've really come across was fro LROR any thoughts?

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Just went ahead and ordered the hex head stud eliminator kit to get that out of the way. At this point no real reason to half ass it while everything is apart already

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[OVRAROK]

nice,what gear ratio you running?

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

5.29`s in V6 housing. Really wish I had come up with an E-locker at least for the rear first but at point I just want to get it up and going again. Started the front the second week in November and hasn't seen the road since

[blackb13se-r]

I'm running 4:88's was too good of a deal to pass up. But wish I did 5.29's

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

When I got my front axle it came with 2 diffs. One set up with 4.10's and an empty 3rd but also 2 sets of 5.29's. One was junk chipped on both ring and pinion but I cleaned up and used the other for the front gears so only had to buy one set for the rear. So kind of the same deal already had a good start with them.

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Alright before anybody tries to revoke my forum access or flame me off my own build , just have a little patience for yet another simple question. I am on the correct site right. Can I ask a question when its not on a Tuesday?   But seriously just got my stud eliminator kit for my rear diff. Not bad ,the bolts do seem a little long not sure if I shoud cut them down yet. But I think it was the better way to go. But question is it came with all the washers and bolts needed but included a flat washer aswell as the lock washer. In all the diffs I've changed out I never remember having a flat just the lock washer. Any thoughts on if the flat would just go on the outside before the locking one. Or possibly even a washer to go on right before the head of the bolt on the inside of the housing. I would think it would be the first but any thoughts . 

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[OVRAROK]

direction call for a flat washer before threading into housing 

[OVRAROK]

 Place one flat washer onto each new bolt. Thread each bolt in from the inside of the housing. Blue LocTite® can be used if desired

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Perfect   That's really what I was thinking to just give a little more surface area for the bolt head. And the last thing I wanted was to get them all threaded in only to have to redo it .  Didn't really think id need instructions for a hand full of bolts but... Thanks bud

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Well the studs were a complete pain to put in. Wouldn't think a bag of bolts would be so tough.

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[OVRAROK]

Well the studs were a complete pain to put in. Wouldn't think a bag of bolts would be so tough.

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looks great,nice work

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

  thanks . Always slower than you plan but hell buildings half the fun

[OVRAROK]

thanks . Always slower than you plan but hell buildings half the fun

agreed

[blackdiamond]

thanks . Always slower than you plan but hell buildings half the fun

And the other half is the actual fun!

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

That it is.   So completely rebuilding my new rear tommorow. Bearing seals brakes all the good stuff.  I am taking my shafts to my buddy's shop to press off the bearings. Do I need to press the new one's on or not. 

[OVRAROK]

That it is.   So completely rebuilding my new rear tommorow. Bearing seals brakes all the good stuff.  I am taking my shafts to my buddy's shop to press off the bearings. Do I need to press the new one's on or not. 

yes, you will have to press bearing back on the shaft

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

 

yes, you will have to press bearing back on the shaft

  Thanks

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Finally got my new rear housing in today. Fresh 5.29's , new marlin eco seals. 12" Bilstein's. List is getting shorter by the day now. Not by the month as it was for a while. To do list  -Bleed brakes (again )    -new E-brake cable. (Front half)   -rear bumpstops.-finish clearancing front d.s. cv. -mount 35's.   -figure out abs delete  ( lights on)                    And right now the abs light is my biggest issue to figure out. I know I had read a post on how to delete the system to keep light of. Something along the lines of following the wire from rear diff to the engine bay and removing the relay for it. But now I cant seem to find that info. Has anyone ever had to do this before. Without just removing the dash light. Right now I just unpluged the sensor at the first plug on the frame rail right behind the gas tank. Any info would be great.                                       

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[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Drive shaft angle looks much better. Ditched the shims in favor of new perches. Ended up with a drive shaft angle of 15deg  and 14deg pinion angle. Perfect

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[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

So talk about frustrating. Working on the abs light. I've tried following the wire to the engine bay. But it seems to bounce in and out of the cab into another wire loom. I did find a relay on the passenger side engine compartment. Unpluged that... nothing. Tried taking the simple route and just taking the fuse out. And then both the plug and fuse together. Still have the light on.  I did find one comment of someone who just left the sensor plugged in but out of the diff. Doesn't seem to make sense to me. With it still there it would want to have a reading but I would think it would trip the light if not sensing anything.

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[OVRAROK]

So talk about frustrating. Working on the abs light. I've tried following the wire to the engine bay. But it seems to bounce in and out of the cab into another wire loom. I did find a relay on the passenger side engine compartment. Unpluged that... nothing. Tried taking the simple route and just taking the fuse out. And then both the plug and fuse together. Still have the light on.  I did find one comment of someone who just left the sensor plugged in but out of the diff. Doesn't seem to make sense to me. With it still there it would want to have a reading but I would think it would trip the light if not sensing anything.

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how about continuity tester?

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Got it fellas. Took 4 easy steps once I got it figured out. Not sure if all 4 are necessary but it worked for sure to delete your Abs with no light no sensor to throw a code and no ill effects while driving. First off couse is to unplug the sensor its self from the frame rail behind gad tank. 2nd is too unplug the abs relay under the hood behind the fuse box bolted to the fender. 3rd. I think this is probably the most crucial step. And you may be able to do this alone and fix the issue but in my case it was the last thing I did so ill just leave everything else undone aswell. But remove the glove box. And strapped to the metal dash support bar is the silver rear antilock control box. You can simply unplug that.  Last I did remove the fuse. Maybe not necessary but already done so no harm. I work to damn hard to keep this truck running correct to have an obnoxious dash light on if there's any correct way to fix it. Hopefully this can help anyone else who may have this issue. 10 minute job

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[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

  Alright Guys not that its any big deal for anyone else but I just put my tags back on for the first time since November. For the first real test drive. And it was a complete  and total success    Theres no short drive thru the neighborhood were I'm at so needed to be sure all was good. And it was. Just very happy with it. Steering is great, no pull to either side , bearings feel good not to tight from the best I can tell. That was one of my bigger concerns this being the first axel I've ever built and by myself to boot.  Just finished the one problem that had nagged me since day one... I never marked the center of my pitman arm on steering box in all the excitement to start the swap. So I really never had it even close. Every time I would tackle one thing the steering was always the last thing I tried to squeeze in and never gave it the time it needed Untill today. So hopefully get it up by Friday for its new kicks

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Anybody have any thoughts about getting a steering stabilizer.  Really hadn't put any thought into it at all. On my list of things to do that was probably the very last. Haven't driven it a lot but the little I did there was nothing noticeable that made me say I need to run out and order one.  This truck will c a lot of road action and don't know if I may notice more of a need with the 35's. Any thoughts?   Thanks

[OVRAROK]

Anybody have any thoughts about getting a steering stabilizer.  Really hadn't put any thought into it at all. On my list of things to do that was probably the very last. Haven't driven it a lot but the little I did there was nothing noticeable that made me say I need to run out and order one.  This truck will c a lot of road action and don't know if I may notice more of a need with the 35's. Any thoughts?   Thanks

I think they are helpful in absorbing some of the load on the steering components when you hit a pot hole, debris or something abrupt on the road. probably giving you more life in some of those parts. Also off road, when you hit a rock, it slows down the steering wheel from ripping out of your hands,