Topic: East coast 3rd gen SAS....

[mdtrail-toy]

Thanks wafflelux.  One of my favorites too. It's no diesel like yours. But it'll get goin. Im more a fan of the 3.slow than most.                                                              After getting my pinion angle set a little better to deal with some vibration I had also remembered a while back when changing out a U joint in the rear drive shaft that my center bearing , carrier bearing,  which ever way you go with it had a little play.  That was almost a year ago so i figured it was a good time to change that aswell. Well when i went to check it again i was shocked and couldn't believe i had been driving it like it was and had let it go as is.  While sitting in it's cradle it had a good 1 1/2" or more of play. It was beyond bad. So i went ahead anf pulled the whole d.s. out and just ordered a new one from Auto zone. Maybe not the best approach but we'll find out. Went and picked it up came back to grab my d.s. fully expecting to have to run to my buddy's shop to press the old one off. No need for that. The old one was so beet it pretty much fell right of in my hand no real effort needed. New one went on nice and easy and seemed to make a world if difference

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[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Well when all else fails Go to the Good ole' 4runner.  Trying to get prepared for the big snow this weekend and can't get the 90' finished until next week . So who needs a solid axel and 35's. I went and stole my dad's old truck for the weekend. 01' limited 4runner. With 385,000 miles!! I know you hear it all the time but you really can't beat a Toyota

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[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

While already off topic I might as well throw it out there and see if anyone can give any help or ideas on this. So driving while its 13deg out with no heat ain't cutting it. My dad hasn't had heat in this since last winter but never drives it anymore so he never bothered with it but its not cool. First the digital controls on these things suck. I already put in a new unit for him a few years ago but now this one picks and chooses when it wants to work too.  Anyway i already got behind the dash checked the flap doors they are operating like they should. Fluids and operating temp is good. So I thinking maybe its one of the 2 heat hoses that go thru the firewall from the engine bay. I believe one an inlet one oulet. Possibly clogged. But also on the inlet hose there is a black box with a cable control attached to open and close it.  All the other flaps are working but i haven't been able to move this one manually.  Does anyone know what this part ( black box ) is called and or ideas overall about the hoses being clogged. I have pleanty of air blowing just all cold. Really sucks. Thanks

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[OVRAROK]

that black box is the heater control valve, should move when you slide temp control on dash

[redneckcustoms13]

You took way too much crap apart there. A limited has a small black box in the passenger foot compartment above your left foot if your setting in it. Has a plug on it. Your worm gear is likely stripped. My 99 was like that. Took it part rotated it's little to use new teeth and I works fine. To affirm that is the problem turn it to heat and are if the control valve outside opens. I'd you can't fix the gear box, simply remove the cable outside and move the valve by hand and leave it there.

[redneckcustoms13]

Circled in black

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

that black box is the heater control valve, should move when you slide temp control on dash

You took way too much crap apart there. A limited has a small black box in the passenger foot compartment above your left foot if your setting in it. Has a plug on it. Your worm gear is likely stripped. My 99 was like that. Took it part rotated it's little to use new teeth and I works fine. To affirm that is the problem turn it to heat and are if the control valve outside opens. I'd you can't fix the gear box, simply remove the cable outside and move the valve by hand and leave it there.

THANKS guys Yes both 100% correct. I was able to get the heat working. It was the heater control valve not being open by the cable from under the dash. The biggest issue seemed to be none of the cables were manually controlled by the slides on dash they were powered cables because of the digital controls. Either way I got under the radio were pointed out and gave the cable a little lovin with some channel locks. that Opened up the control Valve on the fire wall and Just like that heat again.... I will check again about the worm gear I just put it back together to keep the heat on for now. truck dosnt get driven enough right now for it to be an issue.  BUT a big  Thanks again fella's

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Hopefully headed down today to check out an E-locker  that i would like to use in the rear first. Eventually for the front aswell. But one thing at a time. On my 01' Tacoma it was probably one of the nicest setups I've had. With still d.d.ing it a selectable locker is a must and i just like to keep it Toyota.  But while I've done some reading on it I haven't yet full on researched every aspect of the install. I do know about having to modify the housing. But from what i have read am I ok if I can only come up with the 3rd w/ the motor .  I don't think this one has any of the factory wiring or switch. Am i correct that i can wire it and set up a switch with after market parts.  I usually try and do a lot more research on things ahead of time but this just kind of came out of nowhere and don't want to pass it up if it's what i need.  Also checking out a set up for my buddy's 80 series Cruiser. Its a sweet 40 yr. anv.  Edition. But didn't come with the E-locker  like many others.  So am I on the right track if i can just score the rear 3rd. Thanks guys

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[blackdiamond]

                                                                            I may be getting a little to impatient to get my new shoes for the truck.  Trying to get a little caught up after Christmas. But i may order my 35's this week hopefully. I do have these old beat baja claws from my neighbor he gave me. But don't know if i want to track down a set of 15" rims and pay to have them mounted for only a few weeks. Im going with 35"x12.5 on a 17" rim. I  have almost always ran BFG's but now I am looking at the Mtr's.  But also I like having something a little different. Anyone ever ran the Kelly Tsr tires. I know they are made by goodyear and from all iv read people seem to like them and the price difference dosnt hurt either. Really looking for good wet weather and snow capability. Back were im at just to get up my driveway when it snows 4wd is a must.   Any thoughts on the TSR's. Thanks

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Why are you targeting 17s instead of 15s?  Doesn't that drive the price of the tires way up?

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Honestly I just liked how the 17"s looked. Wish I could give you a more interesting answer I had always had 15"s on every other truck so wanted something different. In the end between the last 2 tires I had narrowed it down to the 17" TSR was probably still cheaper or close to a 15" MT/R.. Also I sold my 15" a while back and already have the  17"s

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Always love it when people living in neighborhoods 2 minutes from the store flip out about snow coming. .Back were im at can't even get the truck into my shop today to get some things done.    Last few are our driveway. Even the 14' Cummins 3500 couldn't get our plow to the top. Good luck to anyone else out this way

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[OVRAROK]

wow, is that just one nights worth?, I heard there was a big storm hitting the east coast, holy smokes

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Yep started about 6 eastern last night it's 12 now and we have about 18" but just really getting into the heavy bands. And wind. Should end up with over 2ft.  We are used to plenary of 8-12" snow falls here but Yea this is no joke even for us. My neighbors are both pretty hardcore getting out plowing with the trucks and big John deer 4x4 farm tractor but talking with them even they said it ain't happening right now

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

  The wife's truck is missing!   Check out were the mirrors are

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[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Spent all friecking day shoveling snow. Neighbor will be down with his Big john deer tomorrow morning. 30" all together. Im done for the day with moving any snow.  Taking a little bit of time to get the shocks ready to go so i can Finally get it wrapped up.  Went with 12" Bilstein's front and rear. For the rear I am going to stick with the stock upper mounts and use the mounts from my Sky kit lower but not hanging under the axel. Hopefully be able to help with any wrap and stability.  When i was test fitting last week i realized the stock uppers were 3/4" so i was able to come across a pair of Energy Suspension bushings that fit both shock & mount perfect

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[OVRAROK]

  The wife's truck is missing!   Check out were the mirrors are

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wish there was a dislike button, WOW

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Yea I'm pretty much over the snow.   Now I've asked more than my fair share of dumb question on here while planning everything. But while looking under the truck the other night I had a complete and total brain fart.    On the l.s.p.v. as set from factory is the arm going to the axel supposed to be holding the valve open or closed.  In other words is the arm pulling down or holding up the valve around the rubber boot.  I have it so it's pushing it up at ride height which I think is correct and would seem to make sense when u nose dive it opens up the valve to give equal pressure to the rear.       Am I right, wrong or just really goin crazy. Been going over it in my head for 2 days. But the breakers seemed nice and firm on the short distance drives I have been able to take.  Thanks guys

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

I did some more research on this last night . Still not 100% sure whether all the way up or down will lock the brakes when hitting the pedal.  So any info would still be great but also I still have my 31"s on should I wait to get my 35"s before trying to much to get it dialed in. Is there really that big of a difference. I know all about the aftermarket valves , cutting the rod and just tying it up with wire or a turn buckle as well as removing it all together. All options I would look at later if need be.  But I'm trying to keep as much fully functional as possible. 

[OVRAROK]

all the way up is going to give you the most fluid pushing on rear shoes when brakes are applied

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Ok that would make sense the small bit I have driven it when I tapped the brakes it would put u thru the windshield. Again no shocks on any corner didn't help trying to get a feel for it. So I have plenty of adjustment with the bracket I made so maybe try lowering it to closer to a middle setting?  Thanks

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Alright guys I have another question with probably a simple answer. So as most of my issues have been with this project I'm trying to get everything set and in order before my buddy comes over to do any welding for me. Getting any of his time this time of year has been tough so when i do i need to try to be as ready as I can be.  Really need to learn myself but know enough to know this isn't a project to teach myself  on.  I have a new rear axel housing that i cleaned up to throw my 3rd in. Right now i have 4deg shims in the rear as it sits but that still isn't quite enough and would prefer to go ahead and do it correct. I ordered a new set of peaches and have a good idea at what angle they need to be set at when installed. But just for mocking up without pulling the whole rear end apart yet im trying to eyeball it on the new housing. My question is from the factory am i correct that the spring perches are sitting at 0 or parallel to the ground?  Which would put my pinion angle at about 9 deg.  And with my 2 piece rear cv shaft am I still shooting for about 1 -2 deg. Difference from my drive shaft ( 2nd part behind center bearing) Which i think with a quick look right about 15deg  pinion angle.   

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[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

While waiting for my rear pearches to come in later this week I'm going to go ahead and tackle the front d.shaft I'm using to get me through the rest of winter. It's a pre 84' S.a. shaft so the bolt pattern at the transfer case flange didn't quite line up. Already took care of that problem. I ended up rotating the flange 45deg and used the new shaft as a template and drilled out the new pattern to fit it.  Next is going to be breaking down the Cv joint to clearance it. I tried making a template to use and  transfer to the flange  which just wasn't working for me that night. I really wish I had it broke down to just use the yoke to transfer the pattern would have made life a lot easier

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[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Finally got some new parts in today. Maybe actually be able to get some work done on this thing this week. Its been almost a month since iv got any real work done while waiting on my rear. Ended up getting the 3 position longer spring perches so i can get them clocked to get my pinion angle on point. But looking at these new perches has anyone used  them with 63's in the rear. Just thinking about it the extra 1 1/4" length seems like it may even help with axel wrap on theses loooong springs. Anyone ever noticed a difference?

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[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

When measuring for my bumpstops using Allpro's set up i realized that the stops them selfs didn't quite line up with the pad as it was. Were it was going to hit no matter were I lined it up it looked like the stop would either barely contact the outside of the pad or possibly even slide off. Eventually I'll look into a taller more shock absorbant stop but for now I'm working with what I've got. So modified the pad a little so i can get a good centered contact point Just cut and rotated the one on the left

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[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Had to put everything on hold this weekend. Found out at 5 am. Tuesday morning that my cousin was killed early that morning in a car accident. Made the long 9 hour drive down to Charlotte, North Carolina.   Just wanted to share the amazing work his club buddy's did to finish his truck so it could be at the viewing tonight. While maybe not my style this truck was his baby. Only behind his wife and son. A couple months back coming home from a car show his drive shaft broke and took out most of his air suspension lines. And thats how it sat until Wednesday when his friends came and got it. Completely redid all the wheel tubs finished shaving the tailgate and repainted the entire truck ( bed was only primer ) and got the suspension working enough to get it there for his family and friends to see tonight. These guys apparently put in 2 all nighters on top of their normal jobs to finish it.  Amazing work guy's.                                                     R.I.P. Phillip Lochman.  1982 - 2016.           #NoRainInHeaven

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[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

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[blackb13se-r]

That's really cool man. And sorry for your loss

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Thanks bud. long few days . Headed back to Maryland tomorrow 

[mdtrail-toy [OP]]

Finally after about 2 months of not much happening we were able to get the front end wrapped up and my new rear all ready to drop my new 3rd in. Just need to throw the shock hoop braces on.

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[OVRAROK]

looking good