Topic: *FIXED* Electrical gremlins

[300k]

Quick disconnect battery terminal lug needs to be sanded down and refitted, wasn't getting any power to the ground. (Measuring from the positive terminal to the ground point, was getting about 0.6 volts)




hacked together (not by me) extended cab on regular cab chassis, 1985 on the body, 84 on the chassis (as far as I know), base model (all manual things)

So I installed a battery cutoff switch, because the truck is parked more than it's driven, so a few days later (today) I go to start it and I hear an  electrical pop and my cluster goes out. The first time the cluster went out, a 60A fuse went out, replaced, working again. The second time that happened, the starter went out. Replaced (what a pain that was), and this time has even weirder results.

So "activate" the switch, go to turn the key, and as stated, I get an electrical pop and my cluster is gone (Keying on and off barely moves the volt gauge). I was giving up that my starter went bad, and I'm yet to test it. Battery is charged, the switch is working (I tested both ends of the splice for continuity, and it beeped), and here is something that might identify a problem, normally when you throw the hazards on, it's CLICKclick.......CLICKclick.......CLICKclick.......(etc), well after the little crap out the truck had, it's CLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICKCLICK, no idea what that is.

[Snowtoy]

The rapid click is usually caused by a burned out turn signal.

Did the fuse issues start with the battery kill switch installation?

Check for degraded wires in the harness.

[300k [OP]]

The rapid click is usually caused by a burned out turn signal.

Did the fuse issues start with the battery kill switch installation?

Check for degraded wires in the harness.

the truck was working fine, it started, turned off, started again, and then a few days later I started it and let it run.