Author Topic: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!  (Read 19651 times)

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jangelfire

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NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« on: Apr 14, 2015, 03:58:18 PM »
So heres the deal, i just got done building my 87 xtra cab with dual cases, motor rebuild, axle rebuild bla bla bla.took ot to moab last weekend and it was wheeling awesome other than being a bear to steer with the welded front.long story short, on the first trail i ran i pulled the steering arm bolts out of the knuckle.nasty trail fix to say the least, had to buy a complete junkyard axle just for the knuckle so i could get it off the trail.all my wheeling buddies are on tons and wont stop with the whole "DANA 60" horse crap.i really want to prove them wrong with a yota axle that will hold up.ive found tons of threads about 6 shooters and 5th stud mod but they are all old threads and wanted to pic some brains here before i start spending money again.tons are out of the question rite now due to $$$ so forget that idea.i run 37s with welded front and rear difs and will have hydro assist before it leaves my shop again, my arms are still sore from last weekend! So please pump me up on these yota axles before i put a forsale sign on my rig!

jangelfire [OP]

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #1 on: Apr 14, 2015, 04:03:18 PM »
Here is my pile at the top of moab rim trail about 2 hours before she broke.


toyodaaddict

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #2 on: Apr 14, 2015, 04:05:11 PM »
5th stud mod and arp studs.  :yesnod:  :twocents:
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

blackdiamond

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #3 on: Apr 14, 2015, 04:11:15 PM »
First, what tire size are you running?  What trails were you running?  Area BFE?  I ask because my front axle has spent 9 weeks on the trails in Moab over the past 14 years plus a Rubicon run without any issues. In fact, I have never had a trail break bigger than a twin stick shifter bending at the base and a engine leak after a rebuild.   

My guess is your tire size plus welded front differential is putting a lot of stress on things compared to my 33s and 35s with open, limited-slip, and Aussie lockers ever have. Do you have hydro assist?  I don't and sometimes cannot physically turn the wheels without backing and filling or playing games with the throttle. It seems that I am not strong enough to break things.

This last trip we ran across a trrggy on 42s and a Detroit front that had busted a heim join in his steering. He had no idea how much stress he was putting on his steering on the slick rock since he was from Ohio and it was his first Moab trip. The Golden Spike trail was easy for his build, but still broke his rig.

You may be outside the Toyota box with how you want to use your rig. Don't be stubborn while trying to defend Toyota parts of it risks trails repairs. It isn't worth it.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #4 on: Apr 14, 2015, 04:14:09 PM »
I have ARP studs for the steering knuckles and hubs along with Longfields (from Bobby Long) and hub gears.

Looking at your truck I don't see any reason for it to be beyond Toyota parts capability. I think stock studs us being welded plus hydro steering (assuming you have it) is the combo issue.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

jangelfire [OP]

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #5 on: Apr 14, 2015, 04:15:58 PM »
37s no assist yet but soon.broke on moab rim trail.but yes, i want to be able to do bfe and all the gnarly trails, crawling tho, im not a throttle jockey.i love my dual cases with 5.29s.she just creeps along

blackdiamond

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #6 on: Apr 14, 2015, 04:44:42 PM »
37s no assist yet but soon.broke on moab rim trail.but yes, i want to be able to do bfe and all the gnarly trails, crawling tho, im not a throttle jockey.i love my dual cases with 5.29s.she just creeps along

What type of terrain do you normally wheel on?  Do you have similar issues or does this seem to be a Moab slick rock issue?

The Moab Rim trail is 100% slick rock to the rim and I would assume puts a ton of stress on everything because you are climbing, turning tight with the weight shifted over one front tire. Do you get to the point that you physically can't turn the wheel?  Mine gets to the point that it feels like the wheel is locked on occasion.

With a front locker you really need to be as beefy as possible on the rocks. Stock studs may not be enough for your setup. 4 or 5 ARP studs may be sufficient. My tires are smaller so I can't tell you what the limit is from experience.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #7 on: Apr 14, 2015, 04:46:54 PM »
A selectable locker is a better plan than hydro assist if you want to avoid broken parts in Moab. My buddy Bill reported that his hydro assist made turning feel the same with or without the ARB engaged. This is Ricky because you don't have any feedback from the stress you are putting on things.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

jangelfire [OP]

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #8 on: Apr 14, 2015, 04:59:07 PM »

What type of terrain do you normally wheel on?  Do you have similar issues or does this seem to be a Moab slick rock issue?

The Moab Rim trail is 100% slick rock to the rim and I would assume puts a ton of stress on everything because you are climbing, turning tight with the weight shifted over one front tire. Do you get to the point that you physically can't turn the wheel?  Mine gets to the point that it feels like the wheel is locked on occasion.

With a front locker you really need to be as beefy as possible on the rocks. Stock studs may not be enough for your setup. 4 or 5 ARP studs may be sufficient. My tires are smaller so I can't tell you what the limit is from experience.
I just got finished building this truck so i dont have much experience wheeling it at all. Yes it does get impossible to steer at times and i have to move back or forward to turn the wheels.i hear ya on the selectable locker forsure but i really need to beef up my knuckles either way since we wheel mostly slick rock and boulders.i found a yota axle on craigslist in denver with dirty 30s,six shooters and full hydro setup with hardly any miles on it for 1800$.i just wonder if hes selling it cuz it has just been rebuilt from breaking.im new to the yota world and would like to stay here, i refuse to own a jeep!

jangelfire [OP]

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NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #9 on: Apr 14, 2015, 05:01:58 PM »
If you had 1500$ to spend on MY front axle, what would you do? I guess that is what im getting at in the end.i have stock knucks and axles/birfs,ifs hubs,5.29 welded gears.

OVRAROK

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #10 on: Apr 14, 2015, 05:07:51 PM »
used 529 arb third and some rcv axles
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jangelfire [OP]

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #11 on: Apr 14, 2015, 05:27:26 PM »
Just found this pic on here! LMFAO!!



OVRAROK

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #12 on: Apr 14, 2015, 06:15:27 PM »
Wtf!!!!
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jangelfire [OP]

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #13 on: Apr 14, 2015, 06:31:16 PM »

used 529 arb third and some rcv axles

How often do you see used 5.29 arbs? Thats why i welded mine

jangelfire [OP]

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #14 on: Apr 14, 2015, 06:34:41 PM »
What do you guys think about the axle i found for $1800? Has the 6 shooters, dirty 30s, 2"x8" hyrdo ram with psc pump, lines and res.has the welded 3rd with randys 5.89s which are worthless to me so i dunno what the eff to do

jangelfire [OP]

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #15 on: Apr 14, 2015, 06:35:16 PM »
Heres a pic


Dingman.

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #16 on: Apr 14, 2015, 07:56:54 PM »
How often do you see used 5.29 arbs? Thats why i welded mine

i sold my high pinion 5.29 arb and longs for $1300...  :dunno:

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #17 on: Apr 14, 2015, 10:32:50 PM »
If you have the skills do the 5th stud mod, arps, hydro assist, and carry a spare birf.  Save for a selectable and some RCV axles.  You can keep 37s and run toyota stuff.  Don't give up on it, just piece it together and wheel carefully till its fully built.  Ive broken several stock studs but I personally havn't broke arps.  Im not a trail gear fan, but six shooters do work ok if you cant do the 5th stud mod yourself. 
1987 4Runner.   3RZ.  SAS Duals 5.29 Elocker Rear Detroit front 35s... Hydro assist
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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #18 on: Apr 14, 2015, 10:34:35 PM »
I like the truck, similar to mine. Im not sure what to say about the price, I usually figure out what it would cost new and then decide if the used price is low enough to make it worth it. There's no way for you to know how many miles are really on that axle.If it was recently rebuilt why wouldn't he at least throw some paint on that stuff while it's apart, makes me question the quality of work put into it. Could the gear ratio be a misprint? Meant to say 5.29's?

The six shooters are good, I haven't really heard of any failures as long as the studs are tight, and the dirty 30's are tough but not indestructible. Another thing to consider is TG won't warranty any of that stuff since you aren't the original owner.

I personally would not want a welded diff up front, selectable would be best but even an auto locker like a Detroit would be better. What steering do you have now,stock?

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jangelfire [OP]

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #20 on: Apr 15, 2015, 07:56:55 AM »

I like the truck, similar to mine. Im not sure what to say about the price, I usually figure out what it would cost new and then decide if the used price is low enough to make it worth it. There's no way for you to know how many miles are really on that axle.If it was recently rebuilt why wouldn't he at least throw some paint on that stuff while it's apart, makes me question the quality of work put into it. Could the gear ratio be a misprint? Meant to say 5.29's?

The six shooters are good, I haven't really heard of any failures as long as the studs are tight, and the dirty 30's are tough but not indestructible. Another thing to consider is TG won't warranty any of that stuff since you aren't the original owner.

I personally would not want a welded diff up front, selectable would be best but even an auto locker like a Detroit would be better. What steering do you have now,stock?
Thanx! Yep stock steering.really the only reason im considering the axle forsale is it has everything i need to put in mine plus hydro.i realize that full hydro isnt required with 37s, but for the price it makes sense, i guess.break down for new stuff...

Rcv axles. $650

6 shooters. $400

Arp studs.  $150

Hydro assist. $300


Then i would be done, i hope. But yeah i can handle the 5th stud mod and save $400 if you guys think its tuff enuff??

jangelfire [OP]

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #22 on: Apr 15, 2015, 09:10:02 AM »
Front and rear 3rd's are interchangeable, doesn't say what ratio though and you would need an air supply, solinoid etc., unless that's included.

OVRAROK

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #23 on: Apr 15, 2015, 09:29:40 AM »
Ad says front diff with arb, thought if you where looking, might want to call to find out if gear ratio is correct for your application
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toyodaaddict

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #24 on: Apr 15, 2015, 09:30:18 AM »
I believe the 5th stud is enough, no need for 6 shooters. Ive seen a a lot of 40"+ tire guys put the 5th stud to the test. If you break a 5th  stud setup with arp studs its time to go to a different axle :twocents:
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

jangelfire [OP]

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #25 on: Apr 15, 2015, 11:48:54 AM »
I really appreciate all the responses guys! Thanx Jason

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #26 on: Apr 15, 2015, 12:07:57 PM »
My advice would be to just run 35s but then again I'm old... 

Anyway 35s seem to be the line between having to spend a whole lot more money on a front end vs. just a basic upgraded birf & hi-steer setup.  I don't get on slick rock but we have done a bunch of rock crawl comps over the years and this theory comes from what we have seen there.

I actually have a buddy who has run 37s and bigger for years and he is going back to 35s because he and I can always take the same lines and he is looking for max dependability.
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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #27 on: Apr 15, 2015, 12:30:59 PM »
Are you sure all of the studs were torqued properly?
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

jangelfire [OP]

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Re: NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #28 on: Apr 15, 2015, 01:01:35 PM »
Found a few ideas on the stud mod.i kinda like the idea of both combined.



jangelfire [OP]

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NEED A YOTA AXLE PEP TALK BOYS!!!
« Reply #29 on: Apr 15, 2015, 01:02:52 PM »
Are you sure all of the studs were torqued properly?
Honestly no.and by no, i mean i cant remember.in the last nine months ive had nearly every bolt out of this truck
« Last Edit: Apr 15, 2015, 01:54:26 PM by jangelfire »