Author Topic: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.  (Read 113136 times)

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4xChinook4

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #660 on: May 17, 2020, 09:09:05 PM »
I can finally hold a couple nalgene's now.

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4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #661 on: Jun 13, 2020, 09:37:12 PM »
So I guess theres a monthly limit for pic you can post using Tapatalk. But no big deal.
But there had been a lot at work so far for June. Heres some over all of the camper interior.  Which is pretty much finished .
The table does go down to become a bed. 3' x 6'2"

And lot of other hidden things . For example , the lids to both benches are also cornhole boards . The whole medicine cabinet swings out for a small hidden liquor cabinet behind it.
The closet door can open both ways to gain access from either in the truck or standing outside the back door.
And a few other odds and ends. But shes pretty much the finished product in these photos.

As I mention before. This is the 4th time I've torn out to scrap and rebuilt the interior since 2013.. each time trying to improve the design that preceded it. And I think this will be the last time I take on such a task.  Time to really enjoy it now

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4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #662 on: Jul 15, 2020, 09:04:17 AM »
Thanks for the replies . Everyone. I know this might sound crazy. Lol. But in a year or so maybe 2. I kinda have the itch to want to remove and sell the whole chinook camper. And try my hand at making the truck into a pop top trekker .. thoughts?

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4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #663 on: Aug 05, 2020, 11:10:22 PM »
hey guys! I'm trying to adjust my timing ( 22re) and with terminals Te1 and E1 jumped. The only way I can reach 5° BTDC is if the distributor is in the maxed out CCW position, which I know aint good. , I know once you "unjump" those terminals you should between 10 and 14 ° BTDC . But I don't.  Instead I'm at 6 and 10°  BTDC . I did recently install the CRANE multi spark system. But not sure that should effect or play a role in this issue. 

Thanks for your help

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emsvitil

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #664 on: Aug 06, 2020, 12:24:47 AM »
Did you remove distributor?

Might be off a tooth.
Ed
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4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #665 on: Aug 06, 2020, 05:08:22 AM »
Thought bought that. But I havent adjusted or messed with my timing in 2 years .

I could see that as a problem for 1st rebuild or reassembly. .

And I dont remember this issue when I set it back then.

I'm still just trying to figure out the heavy exhaust cloud.  Which I know is fuel related . Not oil/ not coolant .
You can smell it .
And is a hard start when engine is already warm. Unless I floor the gas pedal while cranking. . Which makes me think leaky injectors. 

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #666 on: Aug 06, 2020, 05:19:26 AM »
Your timing light may not like your multi-spark and is confused.

Ed
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4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #667 on: Aug 06, 2020, 05:25:54 AM »
Your timing light may not like your multi-spark and is confused.
Thats a great guess.! And I emailed LCE about it too. We'll See what they have to say. 

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4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #668 on: Aug 22, 2020, 12:53:59 PM »
Well I'm still trying to figure things out . But here's the update

TPS from Autozone was junk. Both the original and the replacement. The idle circuit (bottom 2 prongs) never closed or gained continuity.
So got a genuine OEM . And worked great.

But still trying to figure out the timing issue.

Its not the multi spark, here's what I've figured out though..


That magnetic pick up in the dizzy. Will only line up with the 4 tooth rotor . When i have it maxed out CCW position.

 Also this is the closes i can get to 5* BTDC
In the maxed out CCW position. .

So I physically cannot get any earlier .

I'm thinking stretched chain perhaps??

But this chain was put in 3 years ago. So not old at all.

Basically I cannot advance any further.

Also cam gear dot does line up @ 11:45  . And the cam itself is at 12:00 . When crank pully is @ 0*

So its not "off a tooth" .

Any ideas?

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emsvitil

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #669 on: Aug 22, 2020, 08:12:41 PM »
Pull the distributor out, and put back in aligned with a different distributor tooth.
Ed
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4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #670 on: Aug 22, 2020, 09:44:47 PM »
Pull the distributor out, and put back in aligned with a different distributor tooth.
Thanks for the suggestion. I wish it was that simple . Because I been trying that.  But then its TOO far ADVANCED.. where I would have to Max out the Dizzy in the CW  position to even get close .

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #671 on: Aug 22, 2020, 10:32:35 PM »
Also i feel I should say. That it does start, run and accelerate smoothly,  its just the timing is like too retarded to advance enough to 5* . And the idle is a little bit rough. You wouldn't even notice it, unless you open the hood and watch the engine slightly shack/ stutter

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Lewis Hein

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #672 on: Aug 23, 2020, 05:24:46 AM »
Silly question, but.... Is the notch on the harmonic balancer pulley lined up correctly? Is the scale it reads against the correct part and in the right place?

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #673 on: Aug 23, 2020, 06:21:13 AM »
Silly question, but.... Is the notch on the harmonic balancer pulley lined up correctly? Is the scale it reads against the correct part and in the right place?
No silly questions here bro! I want to say yes by how obvious that should be. Plus being that when the notch on the pulley lines up with the 0*  on the oil pump, the cam is also at 12 o'clock .

But ill take a few pictures later .

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helipilot77

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #674 on: Aug 23, 2020, 01:38:34 PM »
I have had this exact same problem before and the distributor was off a tooth. Pulling it out moved the adjustment from maxed out to centered. play with it a bit. pulling it out should allow it to move half the adjustment.
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4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #675 on: Aug 23, 2020, 01:57:45 PM »
I have had this exact same problem before and the distributor was off a tooth. Pulling it out moved the adjustment from maxed out to centered. play with it a bit. pulling it out should allow it to move half the adjustment.
Dang well... perhaps thats the story. . If it is ive been running around with the Dizzy off half a tooth for 3 yrs. ..

Buts shes started and run very smoothly this whole time?

I feel like you would notice it though in the performance, if the tooth was off. No??

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #676 on: Aug 24, 2020, 09:23:34 AM »
No. You wouldn’t notice it because the adjustment slot is allowing you to time it “close” to where it should be. Shifting the dizzy over a tooth will put the adjustment in the center of the slot and allow you “dial-in” your timing.
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-t turbo diesel with mech. pump
 & custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
-1984 SR5 Tercel 4wd wagon bone stock - given to my nephew https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100547.0
-1:10 scale RC 4wd crawler w/yota axles, R2 2 speed enclosed dig tranny and 1st gen 4Runner body by BigBird
-My front axle service write-up http://board.marlincrawler.com/i

4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #677 on: Sep 06, 2020, 10:38:45 PM »
So this is my timing with the dizzy rotor inserted at the 12 o'clock position.

With the crank set at 5° BTDC
and the TE1 & E1 jumped

And a picture of the dizzy itself to show It.  being maxed out in the CW position.  In order to get this close .

If i spun the dizzy CCW while like this its advances even further

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #678 on: Sep 06, 2020, 10:42:35 PM »
And this my timing. When the dizzy is inserted one tooth to left or CCW of 12 o'clock.

With TE1 & E1 jumped

Along with a pic of the dizzy and now maxed in the CCW position of its range. If I spin any more CW it retards itself to far.

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4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #679 on: Sep 06, 2020, 10:51:11 PM »
I know y'all might be thinking . I'm accidently skipping a tooth when I adjust the dizzy from one example to the other.

But I dont know how else to say this .
Other than I am being extremely meticulous when I pull out, adjust, slide back in. Where I am still sliding the faces of the gears to be sure I'm slipping from one slot to the next.

I'm stumped. 

Because the truck idles decent, not perfect, not great, but decent .




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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #680 on: Sep 07, 2020, 01:08:17 AM »
Have you verified that TDC mark is actually TDC?
Ed
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4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #681 on: Sep 07, 2020, 06:03:37 AM »
Have you verified that TDC mark is actually TDC?
Great question . And yes ,by spinning the crank to 0° . And pulling the Valve cover to look @ cyl 1 rocker arms Are loose.

And the cam is in 12 o'clock with the timing mark on the cam gear @ the ~11:45 mark.

.hence why I am stumped

Fyi I have the PDF of the FSM . So this is what I'm following.

With the crank @ 5°BTDC "insert at the 12 o'clock position" let the rotor swing back CCW "
Then align the pick up sensor in the dizzy with the rotors.

 But that won't actually happen.

???


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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #682 on: Sep 08, 2020, 09:57:49 AM »
I am a little stumped.  Do you have a different distributor you could try? Has the block or head been decked?

4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #683 on: Sep 08, 2020, 10:08:41 AM »
I am a little stumped.  Do you have a different distributor you could try? Has the block or head been decked?
Thanks bro.. No & No .  . I tried looking at other dizzys on Google images and see if there's any differences in my rotor and those . And I didn't find anything.

Fyi, incase anyone is thinking it. My TPS is adjusted correctly as well.

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #684 on: Sep 10, 2020, 05:03:08 AM »
Okay, another long shot in the dark. Are your distributor cap and rotor OEM? Did the manufacturer somehow build them wrong? How about the ECM? Is it good?

4xChinook4 [OP]

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #685 on: Sep 10, 2020, 05:22:53 AM »
Okay, another long shot in the dark. Are your distributor cap and rotor OEM? Did the manufacturer somehow build them wrong? How about the ECM? Is it good?
Thats a great idea! I have Bosch cap and rotor.

Part #  03168
Part # 04159

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZJ2TY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fQHwFb3P2EMBN

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZEDTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AOHwFbPZZCGV5


They seem right

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #686 on: Sep 10, 2020, 08:32:21 PM »
Well.... I am running low on ideas. If I were you I'd be pretty tempted to get out the parts cannon and replace the Distributor cap and rotor with Denso parts, though I'm not hopeful.

One thought. Are you sure the Crane multi-spark system isn't causing issues? like, really, really sure? Is there a quick way to hook up a single-spark system to check your timing? Because the more I think about it, the more I wonder if that is the cause of your woes. You may already know all or most of the following, but for the sake of thouroughness I will write it anyway.

A timing light has a big copper coil that clamps around your spark plug wire. When a spike of voltage travels down said spark wire, this causes a little voltage spike inside the timing light's pickup coil, which is then amplified to trigger a transistor (basically a super-fast super-duper relay for this application) to make a bulb go all blinky blinky.

There is probably some amount of "blurring" of this voltage spike between being picked up and turning into a flash of light, some maybe intentional and some accidental.

What concerns me is that if you have three spikes in quick succession (because of a multi-spark system) these could well be "blurred" to look like one looong spark with an average position much later than the actual time of the first spark.

I suppose a timing light could even exist that detected not the spike itself, but the abrupt voltage drop at the end of the spike, with a very real possibility of giving poor readings on a multi-spark system.

I don't know the details of your multi-spark system, and I can't begin to guess at the details of what might be in your timing light that might make or break it's ability to read a multi-spark ignition accurately. But I would love to see what you got if you checked timing with factory Toyota ignition system or a multi-spark compatible timing light

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #687 on: Sep 10, 2020, 10:28:11 PM »
Well.... I am running low on ideas. If I were you I'd be pretty tempted to get out the parts cannon and replace the Distributor cap and rotor with Denso parts, though I'm not hopeful.

One thought. Are you sure the Crane multi-spark system isn't causing issues? like, really, really sure? Is there a quick way to hook up a single-spark system to check your timing? Because the more I think about it, the more I wonder if that is the cause of your woes. You may already know all or most of the following, but for the sake of thouroughness I will write it anyway.

A timing light has a big copper coil that clamps around your spark plug wire. When a spike of voltage travels down said spark wire, this causes a little voltage spike inside the timing light's pickup coil, which is then amplified to trigger a transistor (basically a super-fast super-duper relay for this application) to make a bulb go all blinky blinky.

There is probably some amount of "blurring" of this voltage spike between being picked up and turning into a flash of light, some maybe intentional and some accidental.

What concerns me is that if you have three spikes in quick succession (because of a multi-spark system) these could well be "blurred" to look like one looong spark with an average position much later than the actual time of the first spark.

I suppose a timing light could even exist that detected not the spike itself, but the abrupt voltage drop at the end of the spike, with a very real possibility of giving poor readings on a multi-spark system.

I don't know the details of your multi-spark system, and I can't begin to guess at the details of what might be in your timing light that might make or break it's ability to read a multi-spark ignition accurately. But I would love to see what you got if you checked timing with factory Toyota ignition system or a multi-spark compatible timing light
Thankyou so much for working with me on this . And trying help troubleshoot this all. ! Honestly. It helps me wrap my brain around it all.. I'll give it a try

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #688 on: Sep 12, 2020, 12:10:05 PM »
A separate update. I have ordered 2 sensors that I realized were defective and 1 could be a real reason for my no start when warm issue.

Recently I found the Factory Service Manual for free PDF download online. And have been studying it and reading it hard core to try and learn about the EFI systems. 

And learned that my "back woods repair" for the Cold injector time switch was not as clever as i thought . Since that sensor sends a Ohm resistance reading to the ECM . Its not really a on/off . Continuity/ infinite type switch. 

Which is basically what I turned it into with my switch wired under the dash to CSI time switches plug.

So found an OEM sensor on ebay and that'll be here Tuesday

And learned that the Ohms for my O2 sensors are supposed to be between 5.1 and 6.3 (I believe this to be the heater circuit of the sensor)
Well my second, downstream was at 13.3. So I ordered a new one aswell.

I've read that the heater circuit isn't very critical, but im kinda tired of neglecting an issue and trying to find a "cheaper route" like I did with the Wire of CSI time switch.

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Re: Toyota Chinook Build!! Mach 2.
« Reply #689 on: Sep 12, 2020, 01:01:27 PM »
If I were you I'd be pretty tempted to get out the parts cannon

Never heard that expression before but I love it!

The distributor drive gear has 13 teeth on it which would make each tooth about 27.6923077° Apart. If you think that is about what you are getting then I am stumped too.
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-t turbo diesel with mech. pump
 & custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
-1984 SR5 Tercel 4wd wagon bone stock - given to my nephew https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100547.0
-1:10 scale RC 4wd crawler w/yota axles, R2 2 speed enclosed dig tranny and 1st gen 4Runner body by BigBird
-My front axle service write-up http://board.marlincrawler.com/i

 
 
 
 
 

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