Topic: Dual case shifter "feel"

[jangelfire]

So i installed my dual case setup.the crawl box shifts smooth as butter.the t case shifts nicely from hi-n-lo.the 2wd-4wd pulls back into 4wd and stays but dosnt click.4wd-2wd clicks smooth as butter.is this the norm? My first dual setup and dont have any buddies to compare with.i installed hd shift springs in all 3 holes.any help appriciated!
Jason

[jangelfire [OP]]

Also, the interlok pin is out for twin stick and i used the tg top shift conversion

[helipilot77]

mine clicks from 2wd to 4wd.

[Dingman.]

mine clicks from 2wd to 4wd.

X2

Go shift any other toyota single case. Thats what it should feel like.

[jangelfire [OP]]

Any thoughts on what the problem could be?? It shifted fine on the bench.ive had my dad slowly turning the front output flange and it seems to help a little bit

[helipilot77]

I would guess that you may have sheet metal interfering with the shifter at the opening. If that isn't the problem then it is internal. Do a thread search I seem to remember someone else having this problem recently.

[jangelfire [OP]]

Heres another problem.im using a single stick with the interlok pin out and can only to 2wd hi and low which tells me that the shift rail isnt going all the way forward to hit 4wd drive.i can only get to 4wd if the hi lo rail is in nuetral

[helipilot77]

Heres another problem.im using a single stick with the interlok pin out

Ah ha!! That was a critical peice of information. If you use a single stick shifter without the interlock pin the shifter finger can slip out for the shifter fork engagement. And you may be not moving the shifter fork at all when you think you would be shifting between 2wd-4wd. Investigate this problem.

[BigMike]

the t case shifts nicely from hi-n-lo

Good

4wd-2wd clicks smooth as butter.

Good

the 2wd-4wd pulls back into 4wd and stays but dosnt click.

This is also good. There is no click or transition between the passenger's side 2WD/4WD shift rail and the driver's side Low/Neutral/High shift rail. The shifter simple tilts to the right (to operate L/N/H) or tilts to the left (to operate H/N/L).



As for with or without an interlock pin, there is no immediate operational difference between the two, and all of the factory shift "clicks" will function the same. The only difference would be if you were to somehow very quickly engage from 4WD-Netural into 4WD-High really really fast while apply a lot of pressure towards the driver, and you might be able to get the shifter to fall into the 4WD-High slot while the left-side shift rail returns back into the Neutral position (effectively locking you into neutral).

The only other issue would be if you drove straight into a brick wall at a high rate of speed, and depending on which transfer case position you are in and if you are driving forward into the wall or reversing, you will cause the free shift rail to shift on its own also locking you into whatever t/case position you happened to be in. But in this scenario you'd have a lot more to worry about then a stuck t/case

Regards,
BigMike

[jangelfire [OP]]

Problem solved! I filled everything up with oil and ran it in the shop for a while and everything loosened up and feels great.i dont have my drivelines built yet but seems to work good now.im gonna order a twin stick and be done with it.i run a locked front so 2lo will be nice.thanx guys! I appreciate the responses.

[jangelfire [OP]]

My question now is, the capacity thread says 0.8qts for crawl box and 1.5 qts for t case and 2.3qts for t case and crawl box.so does that mean 1.5qts for my rear 4.7 total or do you have to add .8qt to the reduction box as well and another .8qt for the front reduction/crawler box?Might seem like a dumb question but i wanna make sure i do this right. I have a lot of $$ tied up in building this "contraption", as most of you have also been through and im just trying to be thorough.

[Willard]

There is only 2 fill points. So .8 in the front and 1.5 in the rear. You explained it yourself in your post. so front being crawl box and rear being main case.

[jangelfire [OP]]

.K thanx.i was just being cautious.i did it rite but didnt know if you fill both reduction boxs.thanx man for confirming im new to the yota world but love it!

[BigMike]

In Marlin's original instructions he wrote in April of 1994, you are told to add gear oil from the transfer case fill hole until full, insert fill plug finger tight, and wait 3 to 5 minutes. Then remove fill plug to find the oil level has dropped (as oil has made it's way into the Crawl Box), and then fill until full a second time and then insert fill plug and torque to spec.

What I like to do is the following, and this is easier with two people:
1. Remove fill plug.
2. Remove Crawl Box shift handle.
3. Add gear oil from the comfort of your driver's seat through the top of the Crawl Box shifter base.
4. Have a friend under your rig at the fill hole with plug in hand and ready -- or continuously duck your head out your cab to see if oil is running out the fill plug hole (and have an oil tray ready).
5. The moment oil begins running out the fill hole, insert fill plug, torque, done.

I prefer this alternate method because any error results in being slightly overfilled rather than slightly underfilled.

Regards,
BigMike

[jangelfire [OP]]

^^^^^ nice!