Topic: P1700 engine code HELP

[CCM Runner]

I just bought a 2001 sasd tacoma with a v6 and auto trans. On my way home it threw the engine light. When I pluged in my code reader I got code p1700. I looked up the code and it said its the #2 speed sensor. Went to the parts store and got a new one and installed it. Well the light came back on and now I'm thinking I might have replaced the wrong $190 sensor. The one I replaced is on the tail housing of the transfer case and is held on by a single 10mm bolt and the connector has 3prongs. Any help would be sweet. I've searched the Internet with no luck.
Thanks

[twistedtoy92]

You replaced the correct sensor but that may not have been the real issue. You need to check for PWR/GND at the connector. If thats legit then check the output shaft play, possibility that the tailshaft bearing is going out... Hope that helps!

[CCM Runner [OP]]

Ok. Thanks I'll check for pwr/ground tomorrow. I did notice some slop on the rear flange. Do you know if I have to split the case to change that bearing? All I found online was info on the pickup case nothing for the tacoma

[Willard]

Yep I agree with twistedtoy check for pwr and grnd. Also check all of your fuses. I had a ranger one time and had the same problem and the damn domelight shorted and was blowing the fuse and had a shared voltage. Just a tip. Also pull the sensor out and make sure the gear inside the trans is there for a signal to the sensor. Hope that helps too. 

[twistedtoy92]

Yes it'd have to be pulled apart. Check the 7.5 amp fuse, it ties into the Park/Nuetral safety switch.

[CCM Runner [OP]]

So I have power and ground to the plug and a new sensor and all fuses are good... I'm stumped!

[Willard]

Ok you have power and ground. Is there a reference wire. And is it a three wire or two wire connector. You need to check resistance of wires to whatever controls it....pcm....bcm....whatever module receives the signal. Also check inside where the sensor goes make sure there is a reluctor wheel that the sensor reads the signal from and spin it to see if there is any visual damage.

[CCM Runner [OP]]

Ok you have power and ground. Is there a reference wire. And is it a three wire or two wire connector. You need to check resistance of wires to whatever controls it....pcm....bcm....whatever module receives the signal. Also check inside where the sensor goes make sure there is a reluctor wheel that the sensor reads the signal from and spin it to see if there is any visual damage.

I think it goes to the ecu. What is the bcm and pcm

[Willard]

Body control module and powertrain control module....same as ECU. So it has to be a 3 wire....or 2 wire. BCM controls interior functions. I guess I'm just used to all these modules working for GM for all these years acronyms grab ahold of you. You need to check the resistance of the wires from the sensor to the module or fuse block etc. Just to make sure you have continuity in the e wires and good integrity of the system. I don't have any diagrams off hand but I'm sure you can find them. It's hard to reccomend a wiggle test on connector and harness because it probably only sets the MIL after you drive it. Most shorts or open wires happen 5"-10" from the connector. We'll I hope this helps.....if you were closer and I would be able to help you out.

[twistedtoy92]

Yes BUT continuity does not mean the wire is good. All it takes is ONE small strand of wire to complete the circuit BUT it will NOT hold/support the AMPERAGE. I've learned that the hard way, I work on anything from lawan mowers to swathers, to big trucks to propane forklifts to diesels.... Wiring/electricity will run you around in circles and could end up being as simple as a corroded/rusty ground. I just tore the entire harness down on an International to trace out the wiring... Turned out the be at the VERY end... The TCM (transmission control module) was fried internally.... Thousands of hours spent in the electrical marathon of tracing out shorts, grounds, corrosion, and loose connectors...

[Willard]

Ya i understand that.....so thats why i mentioned INTEGRITY. Same here man turned wrenches for GM for 7 years heavyline.....you name it i did it, but then i realized there is way more money in the oilfield, but ya your right for sure....thats why i said most opens or bad connections happen 5-10" from connectors. Also can do tension test on terminals, because you know that happens all the time. Usually i pull on the wires throughout the harness and youll find your weak spot it will split in two. Or like twistedtoy said, bad module. Also could have a defected sensor......that happens all the time. And sometimes if your scan tool isnt as great as it should be you will get a different code description and will mis-lead you on your diagnostic. I have a Solus ultra and that thing works great. So has this problem been resolved or is it still throwing the code?

[twistedtoy92]

Very well said!^^^

[MRHilux87]

if one of you lived close Id give you a lifetime supply of beer to clean up the electrical in my rig.  lol.  Ive been trying and trying to do a clean job wiring stuff in but its getting more of a rats nest all the time.  between the 3rz swap, rock lights, led lights, blower wires, electric fan wires, rear tailgait window wires, stereo wires, interior light wires... its a mess.  sorry for the thread jack.

[CCM Runner [OP]]

To be honest I havnt had the time to get any deeper into it. I'll finally have some free time on Friday and let you guys know. Thanks for all the great ideas