Author Topic: liveoaks 3RZ swap  (Read 58486 times)

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liveoak

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liveoaks 3RZ swap
« on: Oct 19, 2014, 07:58:55 PM »
Thanks to Big Mike, AC over at Pirate, and others for the info and inspiration.
I decided I wasnít going to start a swap thread until I finished the swap as I hate reading a swap thread that never ends up getting done. I also hate when people use flikr or some photo link and then a couple of years later the photos are gone so I uploaded all photos to Marlins server.  here it is:



My truck 1985 4Runner SR5 22RE, 33x10.5x15, 5.29s, single case marlin gears, ARB front/rear, 86 rear axle, marlin crossover steering, other random stuff
Donor truck 2001 Tacoma Prerunner Auto that had been rolled but only had 25,000 miles. (rolled taco)
Oil pan, bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, slave and airbox from a 1995 T100 at the junkyard.
Manual ecu from ebay
Chilkat motor mounts
22RE oil pressure sender
A/C clutch/pulley from a 1986 MR2
Dipstick tube from Toyota
New flywheel bolts from Toyota (they are not reusable)
Toyota belts, front/rear main seals, valve cover gasket, water pump, fuel filter, upper Tacoma radiator hose lower T100 hose, throwout bearing, pilot bearing
 Plastic 22RE heater valve 89-95


My goal was to keep this motor as stock as possible so it could not only be reliable but easily and accurately serviced via obdII scan tools. I live in California and need to have it pass the Referee. The 22RE was a good motor for it's time but in today's reality it's an annoying collection of sensors, vacuum switches, hoses and more. It's 80's tech closed loop ECU. It doesn't like mods. I spent a lot of money on my 22RE and never got what I wanted from it. It's only good in a 2wd stock truck (which I have and love) or a dedicated trailer queen dual cased crawler. You're probably reading this because you're fed up with your 22RE on the road like I was. I am a happy camper now. It's not a rocket by any means, but it feels like double the power I had before. It was totally worth it and makes it feel like a different truck. Do it, you won't do it.

2RZ
 I would not hesitate to use a 2rz as opposed to a 3rz. It doesn't make quite as much power but is still a modern update from a 22R/RE and has the advantage of not having balance shafts like the 3rz


« Last Edit: Aug 27, 2018, 07:38:25 PM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

liveoak [OP]

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #1 on: Oct 19, 2014, 08:02:00 PM »
THINGS TO GET FROM DONOR (2001)

-engine with complete harness donít cut anything
-cat(s) with o2 sensors (as much of the exhaust as possible
-wiring for rear o2
-under hood fuse box (early Tacos under dash fuse box also)
-clutch slave and line
-bell housing, flywheel, clutch, fork
-charcoal canister(evap box)
-fuel, return, vent lines to tank
-IK2 dash harness plug to plug into engine harness IK2
-obdII plug
-remove battery tray with spot weld bit if moving battery
-exhaust heat shields
-heater hoses( you need a plastic 22RE heater valve 88-95 pickup?)
-throttle cable
-air box and fender snorkel


GENERAL NOTES

3rz/2rz
From what I've heard, there are three main versions of these motors with possible slight differences throughout

95.5-97.6- distributor
97.6-2000- 2 coil pack
2001-2004- 4 coil (COP) 2 cats, header type manifold
(4 coil started in 2000 in California)

If you live in CA, it is important to know that after 1999 there is no need for the dyno during a smog check. This is particularly nice as it makes getting a smog check
much faster and easier for you and the smog technician. Edit: my smog tech isn't sure about the conversion rules so he errors on the side of caution and dynos it anyway

Swapping into 95 and older trucks:
A 3rz/2rz will fit in straight axle mini trucks with the addition of a t100 oil pan/pickup/dipstick tube. For IFS you will have to make a custom pan or find a company that makes/modifies them as it will hit some front diff areas. A 3rz/2rz bellhousing will bolt right up to the W or G series trans found on most 4cyl trucks. If you have a 3.0 v6 it is far easier to do a 3.4 swap as it bolts right up to the R series trans and as far as I know uses the factory motor mounts. The 3.4 swap normally requires slight hood clearancing without a body lift. If you want to mate a 3rz/2rz to an R series trans you will need a 2tr bellhousing from 05 and up 4cyl tacos
air filter box
If you're going to move the battery to the other side, you'll have room for a stock air box. Some people leave the battery and just use an open cone filter which I don't like because it's right above the manifold.
The 3rz air filter box is too tall for the older trucks. I cut the bottom out of a T-100 box and fiberglassed it to fit.
The best solution is an airbox out of certain 99-2004 3.4 tacomas that can be identified because the filter loads from the top like toast in a toaster and has a flap you lift to insert it. An aftermarket one only costs around $70 new. 
Heater
-Retaining the rear heater(4runner) was not worth it to me although it can be done later with some Y style connections. The early 80ís style 4runner metal heater valve with rear heater does not work for the swap(although some squeeze it in), it will hit the backside of the 3rz, remove it before test fitting the new motor. A later style plastic heater valve is the one to use. It came on 89-95 pickups and 4runners with 22r,22re and 3.0 part number 87240-89124. Pre Tacoma trucks/4runners use heater valves with a push/pull operation. The taco heater valve can't be used because it is a left/right operation and would require a longer push rod. I made a temporary hybrid valve using the Taco valve and the 85 bracket until I find a plastic valve at the junkyard. It is important to figure out the heater connections before final motor install because of how tight the area is. You want to make sure your heater hoses aren't in contact with hot exhaust egr tubes or any sharp edges which is hard to do in that space
Fuel Lines
-I used the gas, vent, and return line from the Tacoma however you can buy a 5/16 line and a 5/16 fuel line compression fitting just remember to remove the coating on the Toyota line down to bare metal before installing the fitting(high pressure line)
Clutch
-I have read many posts regarding the clutch when mating the G or W series trans to the 3RZ. some people used the 22RE fork and throwout bearing, some used the 3RZ fork with the 22RE throwout and some used all 3RZ parts like I did. Most used the 3RZ slave and kept the 22RE master. In any event it seems like a lot of people had some sort of issue with the clutch not engaging/disengaging all the way depending on their setup. A few made custom length(longer) pins on the slave and I read someone added some washers to the fork pivot ball to get the fork closer. My trans seems a little bit harder to shift than it did before the swap so I will mess with it and see what I can find. It is a good idea to play around with the clutch actuation on your particular setup before final motor install.
Brake Booster
If you haven't upgraded your booster by now, there is no better time. I would recommend the dual diaphrahm booster that came on the 3.0 4runners and others. You may need a spacer on 84-85 but slight grinding is all I needed. I don't recommend the turbo booster because it may hit the 3RZ intake. 83 and older trucks require more creative solutions. a little more about boosters with pics on page 7 of this thread
Oil pressure gauge
you need to get/reuse the oil pressure sender from the original motor(if it had a gauge) and replace the 3RZ oil light sender with it. As far as I know, the tacos only had an oil light on the dash, never a gauge. I have heard you can ruin your original gauge if you connect the 3RZ sender to it. Note: the 3rz oil pressure is much lower than the 22re and reads between low and a quarter most of the time on mine and others I've questioned.
Tach gauge
I used the 10k ohm resistor mod to get the original tach to read correctly. There is a pic further down this thread
Vehicle speed sensor
The speed sensor wire has to be hooked to the 3rz ECU. It is easy to find on a 22RE as it originally went to the 22RE ECU and cruise control computer. I have heard that a lot of toyota gauges have the VSS built into them whether it's used or not. On my truck it was a green wire/blue stripe connector B pin 4 on the gauge diagram below
Stop/Brake signal
The stop signal also needs to be connected to the 3rz ECU. It, together with the VSS plays a crucial role on decel fuel trim/cut. The ECU needs to know if you are still moving when you let go of the gas pedal, also if you are still moving when you apply the brakes.

very important

-Move the brake lines on the firewall towards the passenger side as much as possible then move the same lines from the side of frame to the top of the frame to avoid heat from the cat/exhaust.


-Add heat shielding to passenger firewall and down following exhaust route. I used "floor and tunnel heat shield barrier adhesive backed" along with the regular metal shielding I installed once the exhaust was in. This is very important as the manifold ends up very close to the firewall and will literally melt the carpet in the inside of the passenger cab as well as provide permanent heat. you've been warned

« Last Edit: Feb 24, 2019, 09:41:37 PM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

liveoak [OP]

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #2 on: Oct 19, 2014, 08:11:21 PM »
A/C

I knew I wanted to retain the R12 A/C and discovered that Toyota used many different sized compressors on 22RE motors some will only line up with 3 of the holes on the 3rz bracket but mine(85 runner nippondenso 10p15c) lined up with all four holes however it did not clear the chilkat motor mount. Luckily I was able to shave the mount and part of the motor mount cap with no structural degradation in order for it to fit. I never had to break atmosphere on my A/C as I kept it all original. If I was planning a 134A conversion I would have used the Tacoma compressor(oil is different so flush the system and replace the rec/dryer and expansion valve and all O-rings if you want to do it right)
For the pulley I was able to get a compressor from a 1986 MR2(10p13c) and use the pulley from it because it uses the same style belt as the 3rz. It was a direct bolt on but it is a larger circumference than the 3rz pulley so a different size belt is needed. I used belt size K040353-4PK897.
This is the part needed (MR2 pulley) if you can't find an old MR2 compressor
  http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1276769,parttype,6572

I kept my original A/C amplifier and wired as follows using 2 wires:
1=Tacoma E5 plug pin#13 blue/yellow to 4runner plug2 blue. Use a 3k ohm resister inline for proper idle up/down. (this resistor mod may work for 3.4 swap as well)
2=Tacoma IK2 plug pin#24 light green to 4runner plug2 black/white for A/C clutch
I had to adjust the AC amplifier a bit as sometimes frost would build up and the ac would shut off. It may have something to do with the tach signal difference. I'm guessing a resistor mod could be done like on the tachometer but I was able to re-adjust the ac amp using the instructions below.

compressor talk
Now may be a good time to replace an old ac compressor anyway, you could just buy an MR2 denso 10p13c (471-0136)with the pulley/clutch included and it will bolt right up. It uses R12
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1276769,parttype,6628
the denso 10p15c (471-0133)compressor was used on 4runners and some celicas and has bigger pistons but the same outer dimensions. the denso 10p13c is what you'll normally find on (older) pickups. they are interchangeable however the 4runners came with a 2 piece condenser(denso477-0133) the 15c will cool faster/better.
if your 10p series compressor leaks from the body or shaft but is otherwise good you can buy seal kits for it. aftermarket replacement compressors or even newer densos don't come close to the quality of the older units, if you have a good one keep it and reseal it. here is a good write up for that procedure
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-a-c-overhaul-with-denso-10p15c-compressor-rebuild.875933/
and here's another
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_Nippondenso_rebuild/911_Nippondenso_rebuild.htm
« Last Edit: Aug 30, 2015, 09:21:49 PM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

liveoak [OP]

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #3 on: Oct 19, 2014, 08:17:36 PM »
WIRING 22RE to 3RZ

I provided a link in reply#6 that has vital information regarding the ECU wiring/pinouts for all years of the 3RZ manual and auto. Read the authors notes
for some useful info on early model 3RZ ECUs. The wiring I provided below should work for 2001-2004 3RZ Tacoma(possible 2000 California ECU). I am still looking for a 22RE ECU comparison chart like the one I found for the 3RZ so I can't say if it will work for anything other than the 1985 22RE at this time.

To try and state the wiring simply, there are 2 main plugs where most of the conversion wiring will take place, the E5 plug and the IK2 plug(pics below). Most of the other plugs are contained within the engine harness and plug directly into the ECU. Pay close attention to what was connected(including fuses) to the battery on the 22RE and make sure you repower all of the feeds to the cab on both driver and passenger sides(behind fenders)
IK2
The IK2 plug comes off the engine harness and supplies the inside of truck with info from things like the oil pressure sender, temp sender, tach, fuel pump signal and the reverse signal from trans. It also is used to supply power and/or ground for things like the front o2 sensor, AC clutch, and an ignition(key on) signal for the coils
E5
The E5 plug comes off the 3RZ ECU and is used for things like powering the ECU, providing an output for the check engine light, AC amp, OBD plug and accepting an input for the stop signal(brake), starter signal and vehicle speed sensor

I noticed in some other swap threads that the front fenders were removed but I found it wasnít necessary on my truck. I just took off the plastic fender linings and had full access to the wiring. Besides the engine harness and rear o2 sensor, I did not use the Tacoma wiring inside the 4Runner. I mated the Tacoma engine wiring to my 4Runner wiring mostly inside the fenders. It is a lot easier to leave the 22RE fuse box under the hood(to power existing in cab circuits), however I removed it and wired those circuits along with my ARB compressor and fog lights into the 3rz under hood fuse box. I have attached pics of the 3 plugs I spliced into in the 4runner. They are all found in the passenger kick panel. The IK2, E5, and OBD plugs are from the donor Tacoma. I cut the hole in the firewall for the 3rz harness to pass through where I had seen others do it but I wish I had not. With AC it is waay too tight. I would stretch it over further or try to use the original 22RE harness hole if I could do it again.

update 2016 I finally got around to creating a wiring diagram for my 3RZ swap (see pic). This diagram is specific to a 2001 3RZ to a 1985 4Runner. It may be helpful for other years as well. This diagram is intended for a swap that retains the 22RE under hood and inside fuse boxes and adds the Tacoma under hood fuse box. Because I retained the 22RE fuse boxes, I did not have to use the wiring loom from the taco fuse box that goes into the drivers side firewall (except for the thin green starter wire that goes to the starter relay.) This wiring diagram retains the 22RE EFI relay and the circuit opening(fuel pump) relay. don't forget 4runner ricks 10kohm resistor mod(see pic) to make the tach read correctly.
 update 2017 I found out recently the starter relay signal wire in the Taco fuse box may be black/white instead of green on some models. Truck plug 1 may contain 2 small black wires, use black with red dots for EFI power to pin 16 of E5 plug

 truck plug 1,truck plug 2, and the 22RE ECU plug can all be found in the passenger kick panel.They are whats left after removing the 22RE engine harness.  The IK7 plug is a companion to the IK2 plug and is part of the taco engine harness. Mine(Ik7) only had 2 wires in it that were for the rear o2. The 22RE harness included the reverse light and 4wd indicator wiring, the 3RZ harness does not, you will have to run those wires. The circled numbers on my diagram pertain to plug pin #s. I have included downloads for higher resolution in both pdf and png formats. Hopefully this helps someone. I searched everywhere for info like this before starting my swap. If you notice a mistake, please let me know
diagram pdf
diagram png
plug pics



2001 tacoma 4x4 manual to 1985 4runner 22re sr5 pinouts
Key = pin * color * description * destination
E5 ECU plug
1 * black/yellow * EFI power * EFI 20A fuse
2 * none 3 * none 4 * none 5 * none
6 * violet/red * check engine * purple wire 4runner plug 1
7 * black/white * starter signal * thick black wire 4runner plug 1+hook to taco starter relay green wire(or black/white auto vs manual) in Tacoma under hood fuse box
8 * none 9 * none 10 * none 11 * none
12 * white * OBD signal * D7 plug pin 7
13 * blue/yellow * AC idle up * blue wire 4runner plug 2 use 3k ohm resistor inline
14 * none
15 * green/white * stop light * green/white wire 22re ECU plug
16 * white/red * EFI power * white/red IK2 plug pin 13+black(red dots) 4rnr plug 1+rear o2 white/red
17 * none 18 * none 19 * none 20 * none
21 * green/orange * speed sensor * green/blue wire 22re ECU plug pin 10
22 * none
IK2 plug
1 * black/red * ignition2 * connect to black/yellow pass fender used to go to underhood resistor
2 * none 3 * none
4 * white/black * ground * ground
5 * red * obdTC * red D7 obd plug pin 13
6 * none 7 * none
8 * green/yellow * oil pressure gauge(use 22re sender) * yellow/black 4runner plug 2
9 * brown * ground * ground
10 * yellow/red * water temp gauge * yellow/green 4runner plug 2
11 * light green/black * tach * light green/black D7 obd plug pin 9+4runner tach solid black wire can be found at A/C amp(if your truck has no A/C the plug for A/C amp is still there behind & above glove box) or you can find it in driver fender also solid black
12 * black * rear o2 * rear o2 ground
13 * white/red * EFI power * white/red E5 plug pin 16+black 4runner plug 2 this is going to original EFI fuse driver kick+rear o2 wht/red
14 * brown * rear o2 * rear o2
15 * none 16 * none 17 * none 18 * none 19 * none 20 * none 21 * none 22 * none
23 * brown * ground * ground
24 * light green * A/C clutch * black/white 4runner plug 2
25 * white/blue * fuel pump * splice into green wire at circuit open relay behind pass dash speaker
26 * none
D7 OBD II plug
1 * none 2 * none 3 * none
4 * white/black * ground * ground
5 * brown * ground * ground
6 * violet * OBD power * OBD 7.5A fuse
7 * white * OBD signal * E5 plug pin 12
8 * none
9 * light green/black * tach * IK2 plug pin 11+see notes for IK2 plug pin 11
10 * none 11 * none 12 * none
13 * red * obdTC * red IK2 plug pin 5
14 8 none 15 * none 16 * none
« Last Edit: Sep 02, 2017, 03:43:39 PM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

liveoak [OP]

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #4 on: Oct 19, 2014, 08:32:10 PM »
I've got the motor in and am still workin out a few things. the chilkat mounts are twisting the transmission towards the passenger side just enough to cause the 4wd stick to contact the console and the trans mount is twisted and won't last at that position so I have added 3/16 washers on the passenger side where the motor mount attaches to the frame and I plan on elongating the holes if possible on the driver side chilkat mount where it attaches to the motor to essentially drop the motor a bit. I have talked to at least 1 other person who is having the same issue with their Chilkat mounts.I had a local shop do the exhaust keeping the cat distances the same.I may have some adjustment to do in the future. I retained the T100 airbox by cutting out the bottom of the box until the hood cleared it. I fiber glassed the bottom of the box to seal it up and used the factory fender "snorkel". I used the 22RE radiator, shroud, fan, and the fan clutch drilled out. The truck runs great and the difference in power is night and day. I have yet to make my referee appointment.

.update added 1/2" washers pass side cut and removed material on passenger side mount. I also got a 3.0 2wd aluminum radiator, 2rz fan shroud(customized) and put the original 3rz fan and clutch back on shown later in this thread because I was running hot in temps of 100+
« Last Edit: Jul 30, 2018, 10:51:11 AM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

liveoak [OP]

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #5 on: Oct 20, 2014, 06:55:57 AM »

I replaced the input shaft bearing on the trans with an arm puller(extended) and pressed it on with a homemade press.
I also made a tool for breaking the crankshaft bolt by ordering a $12 pulley and welding a tube to it
so I can slide in an extension.

« Last Edit: Dec 29, 2015, 08:29:01 AM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

liveoak [OP]

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #6 on: Oct 25, 2014, 12:30:56 PM »
I'm going to try to provide useful files/info I've collected so it's in one place. these are links to my cloud drive
 3RZ and 5VZ  pinouts
 1996 Tacoma FSM
 2000 Tacoma FSM
 2003 Tacoma FSM
 1985 Pickup FSM
 Toyota EFI sensor description
« Last Edit: Dec 17, 2015, 05:44:54 PM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

Nation

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #7 on: Oct 25, 2014, 06:04:39 PM »
Some good stuff buddy! Thanks  :usa:
3RZ, LC engineering Turbo kit, R151, Dual Ultimate, Yota axles-5:29s, Spartan front, LSD Rear

RCKSQRL

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #8 on: Oct 27, 2014, 08:40:48 PM »
Subscribed! Have a plan to do something similar...


Sent from magic wish granting phone
'85 EFI Runner
4.3 with 700R4- for sale
5.29 detroit F/R
Front 3 Link with air shocks
rear 4 Link
Custom Fuel cell
8274
Crawler #719, rear with 4.70 # 677,
Twin stick
Skys manufacturing T-case crossmember

6 point cage modified with harness bar, dash bar and PRP seats mounted to cage
2 feet chopped off the back

It seems it is never done........

in works for new body and exo, motor and trans swap...

chim

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #9 on: Oct 28, 2014, 08:07:42 AM »
Looks good :)

liveoak [OP]

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #10 on: Oct 28, 2014, 07:39:20 PM »
Looks good :)

thanks and good luck with your new project. I have an 87 SR5 4Runner waiting in the wings for some TLC. I too have come to appreciate the dual purpose expedition type vehicle.
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

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liveoak [OP]

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #11 on: Oct 28, 2014, 08:06:26 PM »
I just finished extending every wire to the ECU by a foot so it would reach the 22re location. It was actually double the work since every wire needed two solder and heat shrink connections. I know it's better to mount it higher up but it just didn't fit any where else.
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #12 on: Oct 28, 2014, 09:46:22 PM »
I buy high qaulity seamless wire splices. They say in high vibration areas they are equaly if not better then solder joints. They are also alot quicker. I also use qaulity shrink wrap. http://www.waytekwire.com/products/ is an awesome website!

If you see it, its for sale.

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Re: Live Oak's 3RZ swap
« Reply #13 on: Oct 28, 2014, 09:55:27 PM »
I got ahold of these butt connectors, and they are AWESOME!!!!  Crimp, solder, and heat shrink all in one!   :yesnod:

Miss ya Dean (4THEWKN) & Kyle (KYOTA)!!

4THEWKN~9/17/2006  If it wasn't for you, I'd be driving something other than a Toyota!

My build up ~ project Kilchis! http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=32961.0
Zak's truck build ~ http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=64319.0;topicseen

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #14 on: Nov 11, 2014, 05:42:48 PM »
I got ahold of these butt connectors, and they are AWESOME!!!!  Crimp, solder, and heat shrink all in one!   :yesnod:



Where's the link to these?
87 4runner, 97 3RZ, dual ultimates, 5.29's air over elocker & arb, true longs R.I.P., York belt driven onboard air and a/c.

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #15 on: Nov 11, 2014, 06:05:24 PM »
:popcorn:
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=88478.0
Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #16 on: Nov 11, 2014, 06:30:25 PM »
Del City  http://www.delcity.net/  Or Ebay sells them.  I had some come in with a taillight assembly I ordered online.  Just google "heat shrink solder butt connectors."
Miss ya Dean (4THEWKN) & Kyle (KYOTA)!!

4THEWKN~9/17/2006  If it wasn't for you, I'd be driving something other than a Toyota!

My build up ~ project Kilchis! http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=32961.0
Zak's truck build ~ http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=64319.0;topicseen

liveoak [OP]

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #17 on: Nov 12, 2014, 08:53:49 AM »
Starting a list of part #s here
parts are for 1985 4Runner(may fit others) and some 3RZ swap parts
thanks to RyanV
2rz/3rz bellhousing 31111-35070
stiffener right 33118-26011
stiffener left 33119-35040
bolts 91612-61035 x 2 stiffener to block
bolts 90080-11340 x 2 stiffener to block
bolts 91612-61040 x 3 stiffener to bellhousing(4th bolt size unknown)
thanks to mudslide
The inspection plate/dust cover is in 3 pieces
Upper: 1135565011 (plate, rear end)
Lower: 113610C010 (cover, flywheel housing under)
Seal in between upper and lower: 1135475010 (seal, flywheel housing, dust)
A/C parts
compressor-------denso 471-0133(reman 10p15c)
condenser--------denso 477-0133
rec/drier----------denso 478-0101
expansion valve--denso 475-0101
O-ring kit---------four seasons 26751
for 3RZ swap
MR2 pulley--------four seasons 48828

Fuel System
fuel pump--------denso 950-0150
pump tank seal--denso 954-0005
 
« Last Edit: Apr 13, 2019, 07:44:16 AM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

liveoak [OP]

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #18 on: Nov 12, 2014, 09:11:36 AM »
I just got back from a weekend trip on the Mojave Rd trail to test out the new drivetrain on some easy going terrain. I can't get over how nice it was to drive on the 15 freeway towards Vegas and never have to downshift out of 5th gear even on the hills. Off road I was just as pleased. The 3RZ is the perfect replacement motor for this truck. I only have a single case gearset so I don't have the stock low range and with the 22RE I could never play around on sand dunes cause I had no power in 4WD high and 4WD low was too low. Now I can haul ass all over the dunes in 4WD high like I never could before. I do have 5.29s and 33" tires so that helps. I was a little worried I was going to wish I had 4.88s but with the combo I have it feels well balanced. I did throw 2 codes though P0401 and P0402 which is too little and too much EGR flow so I'll have to check the EGR valve as it might be sticking but it still ran great even with the AC on.
 update:
replaced the egr valve and vacuum modulator and codes have not returned.
« Last Edit: Jan 18, 2019, 09:21:39 PM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

Cheesemaker

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #19 on: Nov 12, 2014, 09:17:12 AM »
I followed Bigmike up the 4 lane to Shaver Lake once, he has 3rz, with 5.29's, and was running 37's.  And he said he was holding back on the throttle for me.  We were doing 70 uphill!  So, my dream motor is the 3rz. 
Miss ya Dean (4THEWKN) & Kyle (KYOTA)!!

4THEWKN~9/17/2006  If it wasn't for you, I'd be driving something other than a Toyota!

My build up ~ project Kilchis! http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=32961.0
Zak's truck build ~ http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=64319.0;topicseen

Crunchy Taco

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #20 on: Nov 12, 2014, 11:28:36 AM »
Awsome job!
98 Tacoma ex cab, Garrett T3 turbo 7psi, w56, 2.28 duals, ceramic sprung puck clutch, toyota solid axle, Tacoma rear axle w/ e-locker, plated frame front and rear, fuel tank raised with custom armored cradle, 1 ton steering 35" general grabbers wheeler/DD built from stock http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=95652.msg1066733#msg1066733

floorrunner

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #21 on: Nov 15, 2014, 05:21:03 AM »
Here is a video on heat shrink solder terminals, really neat. Never seen them before. Look to be about the same size as regular solder joint with shrink wrap...
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=d83XuNDnHLI


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87 4runner, 97 3RZ, dual ultimates, 5.29's air over elocker & arb, true longs R.I.P., York belt driven onboard air and a/c.

liveoak [OP]

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #22 on: Nov 15, 2014, 08:20:20 AM »
Here is a video on heat shrink solder terminals, really neat. Never seen them before. Look to be about the same size as regular solder joint with shrink wrap...
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=d83XuNDnHLI


wow, those are smaller than I thought. I didn't realize how cool those really are. I stand corrected. I'll look into getting some of those for the future
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

liveoak [OP]

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got new rear window mouldings and hinge retaining clips.
Toyota part #s
inside glass includes clips 68170-89114
outside glass includes clips 68160-89111
hinge retaining clips 65778-89104 you need 4 of these





« Last Edit: Nov 30, 2014, 01:39:13 PM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

liveoak [OP]

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #24 on: Nov 16, 2014, 04:56:31 PM »
she cleans up well



my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

zippo

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #25 on: Nov 16, 2014, 05:46:28 PM »
Nice runner!
If you see it, its for sale.

87Fontana

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #26 on: Nov 16, 2014, 09:09:35 PM »
She's a real beaut Clark!
1990 Toyota 4Runner, SAS, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 3.4 engine swap

liveoak [OP]

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my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

MRHilux87

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #28 on: Nov 16, 2014, 11:53:21 PM »
Thats alot of attention to detail...  Wish I had time to get some of those things done.  My runner body is almost perfect, but needs some trim.  I like the white. 
1987 4Runner.   3RZ.  SAS Duals 5.29 Elocker Rear Detroit front 35s... Hydro assist
2007 Cummins 6.7 DRW g56.  deleted EFI live.
2013 Ninja 1000
SOLD:
2006 Mitsibishi EVO 9.  347WHP runs 12.2s - Wifes daily driver.  Ducati 916 - track bike.

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Re: liveoaks 3RZ swap
« Reply #29 on: Nov 17, 2014, 05:35:25 AM »
Fantastic!!  Nice job!
'86 4Runner SR5 TRD 5VZ-FE
...slightly modified from OEM...

 
 
 
 
 

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