Topic: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread

[LittleSteve]

Nice attention to detail, loving it!

[19954Runner]

Just curious what your end result is with the gas tank.

The new cylinder head has shipped and should be at my door step later this week

In the mean time I got the valve cover cleaned and painted up.  I also clearanced the ribs near the front of the cover to clear the ARP studs.

I went with Summit Racings black krinkle paint and really liked how it turned out.  Seems pretty durable and I'm thinking about using it on the other various brackets on the engine.


I also mocked the gas tank into place on the mounts I built at the rear of the truck.  I also scuffed up of bottom half of the tank and painted a couple layers of rustoleum's truck bed liner to help protect it from rocks and what not.  The truck bed liner went on pretty nicely and seems reasonably durable for rattle can stuff.



I like this location but realized I should have built the mounts at a slight angle so the tank sits a bit more level, but a little late for that now.  Any one see any issues with the tank being at a slight angle? 

If I end up leaving the tank in this location I'll plan to cut out part of the bed and build an enclosure around it that will allow me easy access to the top of the tank.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Just curious what your end result is with the gas tank.

This is kind what I have in mind along with mounting a spare tire carrier on top of the tank housing.  Not 100% sold on the location yet and may still place it in the stock location.  Right now I'm letting it sit there while I think it over.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

I'm also planning to bob the bed a little and install a bench seat in the back as well so room might be an issue.  I still need to take some measurements to see if everything will fit or not.

[THK Matt]

what if you raised the bed floor like 1.5-2" and then added a 1" poly body lift? you may not even have to "cut" a relief in the floor to allow the tank to be in that location.

[19954Runner]

I  like the idea for sure.
it would be nice to have it mounted low enough.
to have your license plate flip down like an older.. say cutlass and have your filler located behind it...
just a thought.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

I  like the idea for sure.
it would be nice to have it mounted low enough.
to have your license plate flip down like an older.. say cutlass and have your filler located behind it...
just a thought.

I'm not sure I can get it that low with the way I set it up but I agree that a flip down license plate would be sweet. 

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

I got the dial indicator all setup and did an initial attempt at determining the intake lobe center line.  I followed LC engineering's instructions and came out with a lobe center line of 106.5 degrees.  22RE performance told me the intake center line of the cam is 105 degrees so that would put me at 1.5 degrees retarded. Does this seem right with for .005" I had taken off the block?  From what I've found searching it seems reasonable.  I'm planning to rerun the numbers once more to double check since this is my first time doing this.  Then I'll adjust the cam gear to bring the cam 1-2 degrees advanced (get a little more low end torque right?) and rerun the numbers again.



 

[T-YotaFreak]

This is gonna be one awesome pickup

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Over the weekend I found sometime to rerun the numbers and once again came up with an intake center line of 106.5 degrees (valve lash set to 0.000").  I adjusted the cam gear 3 degrees advanced, reran the numbers and came up with 103 degrees.  Based off the cam info from 22re performance (intake center line  of 105 degrees) I believe I should be 2 degrees advanced at the current settings. 



Based on my google research it seems like 22re's like to be ~2-3 advanced so I'm planning to leave it at this setting initially.  I also went ahead and readjusted the valve lash as per 22re performances recommendations of .007" intake and .010" exhaust (cold).   

For now that about finishes up the long block.  Up next I'd like to get the fly wheel and clutch installed so I can set the trany and tcase back on the truck. 

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

well it looks like photobucket isn't going to allow me to post images on here anymore (something about 3rd party hosting).  At this point not sure what I'm gonna do but I won't be paying the some 399.99 a year to host 3rd party pics that photobucket wants.  That said anyone have a better option than photobucket?  Can I post directly to MC website?  I've only tried photocucket up to this point so I'll need to figure something out.  I really don't want to have to go update all the images on here but it looks like I don't have many options.   

[LittleSteve]

well it looks like photobucket isn't going to allow me to post images on here anymore (something about 3rd party hosting).  At this point not sure what I'm gonna do but I won't be paying the some 399.99 a year to host 3rd party pics that photobucket wants.  That said anyone have a better option than photobucket?  Can I post directly to MC website?  I've only tried photocucket up to this point so I'll need to figure something out.  I really don't want to have to go update all the images on here but it looks like I don't have many options.   

Imgur....
Free, easy, clean website with no advert garbage, app for your phone so you can upload.......
Link the same way as photophuckit.

Sorted mine over night and am posting photos again.

Sqwadoosh will say i told you so

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

well looks like I've got my image issues figured out now I just need to go back and fix all the broken links. 

[94Runna]

well looks like I've got my image issues figured out now I just need to go back and fix all the broken links. 

Last couple pages still say to update photobucket. For me anyway..

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Last couple pages still say to update photobucket. For me anyway..

Yeah its gonna be a multi day process to get the thread back to where it was.  I'm hoping to get a page or so done per day so maybe sometime next week all the images will be back up and running

[LittleSteve]

Yeah its gonna be a multi day process to get the thread back to where it was.  I'm hoping to get a page or so done per day so maybe sometime next week all the images will be back up and running

I couldnt be bothered with mine, i was to pissed to do anything about it.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

still slowly working on fixing the old image links...

But I did pickup LC engineering's 35lbs fly wheel which is definitely heavier than the stock fly wheel.



had a few min to slip it on the engine and hope to have it all torqued down soon followed by the new clutch.  Anyone have a good method for keeping the fly wheel still while I torque the bolts down?  Once I'm done with this I can get on with getting the trany and transfer case bolted up.

[redneckcustoms13]

I just hold a pry bar across the dowels

[94Runna]

Or put a pry bar braced against the frame, onto one of the teeth

[:)bestgen4runner]

I have always wanted that flywheel

[LittleSteve]

still slowly working on fixing the old image links...

But I did pickup LC engineering's 35lbs fly wheel which is definitely heavier than the stock fly wheel.



had a few min to slip it on the engine and hope to have it all torqued down soon followed by the new clutch.  Anyone have a good method for keeping the fly wheel still while I torque the bolts down?  Once I'm done with this I can get on with getting the trany and transfer case bolted up.

Find an old ball bearing outer race, cut it into two parts so you have 1 piece over half and 1 piece under. Toss the under half. Find a piece of small heavy wall tube (wrist pin for eg) cut it to the same length asthe race is deep and weld it into the middle of the race, use bellhousing bolt to secure to block and push the leading edge of the race into the starter ring, it should tighten its grip as you apply torque

[redneckcustoms13]

That Steve sure is a handy feller. Good idea!

[zippo]

I have always found if you torque them with the torque wrench crossing over the pilot bearing(torque wrench facing in) you can get them torqued under normal engine compression.

[LittleSteve]

I have always found if you torque them with the torque wrench crossing over the pilot bearing(torque wrench facing in) you can get them torqued under normal engine compression.

This is also true, pita when the motors in the truck though, near impossible for angle torques.
If the head isnt on can you put duct tape over the deck to get compression?

[LittleSteve]

I found said bearing, have taken a photo and will post it tomorrow now.

[Gnarly4X]

I have always wanted that flywheel

What does a 35 lb. flywheel do besides add more static and dynamic weight to the end of the crankshaft?

Gnarls.

[LittleSteve]

What does a 35 lb. flywheel do besides add more static and dynamic weight to the end of the crankshaft?

Gnarls.

More inertia, keeps the motor turning. Less likely to stall

[Gnarly4X]

I've been looking at a few more parts and what not and I've got a couple of questions for everyone....

...  I was looking at LCs 35lbs flywheel and wondering what people think of running the heavier one.

The “High Torque” description on LCE’s site for their high intertia flywheels is a misnomer and technically deceptive.

The flywheel cannot produce torque.

Low RPM stalling is fairly common in the very slow rock crawling and in much of the typical 4-wheeling.  If the engine is stalling, the fix is lower gears. With a 22, the very low torque numbers at idle or off idle is not good for crawling.

Very low RPM engine stalling is problematic when 4-wheeling.  The issue of a dead engine because the driver stalled it, can cause a safety issue for braking and steering, as well as just the loss of momentum while negotiating the obstacle.

There is another problem with low RPM lugging – oil pressure drop.  During steep angle climbs and decends, the oil in the pan may slosh enough to cause momentary air to be sucked up by the oil pump.

The heavier flywheel takes more power to spin it up. The heavier flywheel also takes more energy to slow it down.

There’s another factor…. 8% of the wear on the main bearings in an engine is attributed to “load”.  A heavier than stock flywheel can increase wear.

I have never installed a high inertia flywheel.  I have installed a lighter flywheel and it was very noticeable. The quicker throttle response was nice.  I believe the Outlaw sprints cars do not have flywheels, and lighter flywheels are typically used to gain quicker RPMs and getting into high torque producing power band.

That’s just my opinion – it may be worthless 

Gnarls.

[LittleSteve]

The “High Torque” description on LCE’s site for their high intertia flywheels is a misnomer and technically deceptive.

The flywheel cannot produce torque.

Low RPM stalling is fairly common in the very slow rock crawling and in much of the typical 4-wheeling.  If the engine is stalling, the fix is lower gears. With a 22, the very low torque numbers at idle or off idle is not good for crawling.

Very low RPM engine stalling is problematic when 4-wheeling.  The issue of a dead engine because the driver stalled it, can cause a safety issue for braking and steering, as well as just the loss of momentum while negotiating the obstacle.

There is another problem with low RPM lugging – oil pressure drop.  During steep angle climbs and decends, the oil in the pan may slosh enough to cause momentary air to be sucked up by the oil pump.

The heavier flywheel takes more power to spin it up. The heavier flywheel also takes more energy to slow it down.

There’s another factor…. 8% of the wear on the main bearings in an engine is attributed to “load”.  A heavier than stock flywheel can increase wear.

I have never installed a high inertia flywheel.  I have installed a lighter flywheel and it very noticeable. The quicker throttle response was nice.  I believe the Outlaw sprints cars do not have flywheels, and lighter flywheels are typically used to gain quicker RPMs and getting into high torque producing power band.

That’s just my opinion – it may be worthless 

Gnarls.

All the above can be solved with an automatic

does the misnomer say it makes more torque?
also, the cure for stalling is driver education
if your that worried about oil starvation, fit an accusump or dry sump it or fit more baffles in the pan. gravity is the cause of oil starvation not lugging.

[Gnarly4X]

all the above can be solved with an automatic

A BIG 10-4 on that!!!.... torque conversion....that's handy.

Gnarls.