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The new cylinder head has shipped and should be at my door step later this week In the mean time I got the valve cover cleaned and painted up. I also clearanced the ribs near the front of the cover to clear the ARP studs.I went with Summit Racings black krinkle paint and really liked how it turned out. Seems pretty durable and I'm thinking about using it on the other various brackets on the engine.I also mocked the gas tank into place on the mounts I built at the rear of the truck. I also scuffed up of bottom half of the tank and painted a couple layers of rustoleum's truck bed liner to help protect it from rocks and what not. The truck bed liner went on pretty nicely and seems reasonably durable for rattle can stuff.I like this location but realized I should have built the mounts at a slight angle so the tank sits a bit more level, but a little late for that now. Any one see any issues with the tank being at a slight angle? If I end up leaving the tank in this location I'll plan to cut out part of the bed and build an enclosure around it that will allow me easy access to the top of the tank.
Just curious what your end result is with the gas tank.
I like the idea for sure. it would be nice to have it mounted low enough. to have your license plate flip down like an older.. say cutlass and have your filler located behind it...just a thought.
well it looks like photobucket isn't going to allow me to post images on here anymore (something about 3rd party hosting). At this point not sure what I'm gonna do but I won't be paying the some 399.99 a year to host 3rd party pics that photobucket wants. That said anyone have a better option than photobucket? Can I post directly to MC website? I've only tried photocucket up to this point so I'll need to figure something out. I really don't want to have to go update all the images on here but it looks like I don't have many options.
well looks like I've got my image issues figured out now I just need to go back and fix all the broken links.
Last couple pages still say to update photobucket. For me anyway..
Yeah its gonna be a multi day process to get the thread back to where it was. I'm hoping to get a page or so done per day so maybe sometime next week all the images will be back up and running
still slowly working on fixing the old image links...But I did pickup LC engineering's 35lbs fly wheel which is definitely heavier than the stock fly wheel.had a few min to slip it on the engine and hope to have it all torqued down soon followed by the new clutch. Anyone have a good method for keeping the fly wheel still while I torque the bolts down? Once I'm done with this I can get on with getting the trany and transfer case bolted up.
I have always found if you torque them with the torque wrench crossing over the pilot bearing(torque wrench facing in) you can get them torqued under normal engine compression.
I have always wanted that flywheel
What does a 35 lb. flywheel do besides add more static and dynamic weight to the end of the crankshaft?Gnarls.
I've been looking at a few more parts and what not and I've got a couple of questions for everyone.... ... I was looking at LCs 35lbs flywheel and wondering what people think of running the heavier one.
The “High Torque” description on LCE’s site for their high intertia flywheels is a misnomer and technically deceptive.The flywheel cannot produce torque.Low RPM stalling is fairly common in the very slow rock crawling and in much of the typical 4-wheeling. If the engine is stalling, the fix is lower gears. With a 22, the very low torque numbers at idle or off idle is not good for crawling.Very low RPM engine stalling is problematic when 4-wheeling. The issue of a dead engine because the driver stalled it, can cause a safety issue for braking and steering, as well as just the loss of momentum while negotiating the obstacle.There is another problem with low RPM lugging – oil pressure drop. During steep angle climbs and decends, the oil in the pan may slosh enough to cause momentary air to be sucked up by the oil pump.The heavier flywheel takes more power to spin it up. The heavier flywheel also takes more energy to slow it down.There’s another factor…. 8% of the wear on the main bearings in an engine is attributed to “load”. A heavier than stock flywheel can increase wear.I have never installed a high inertia flywheel. I have installed a lighter flywheel and it very noticeable. The quicker throttle response was nice. I believe the Outlaw sprints cars do not have flywheels, and lighter flywheels are typically used to gain quicker RPMs and getting into high torque producing power band.That’s just my opinion – it may be worthless Gnarls.
all the above can be solved with an automatic
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