Topic: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread

[nk]

Yeah i'm hoping I can find a short one that doesn't reduce capacity, or I might try spacing the radiator back towards the engine...cant remember if there is room for that with the stock fan atm. I also decided I want to add some bolts to the center of my winch plate so I need to make room for the DOM tubes and nuts in back of the crossmember anyway. At any rate, seems like a relatively small hurdle considering everything else you got going here. Keep up the good work! 

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Another question for everyone.  I'm about ready to slap some more parts back on the engine and I started to think about the need for an adjustable cam gear.  Doing some quick research it looks like you need to think about using an adjustable cam gear if you have milled .010" or more off the block/head.  When they machined my block they only took .005" off and I ordered a new head from 22re performance (still waiting for it arrive) so I think I'm in the clear for needing an adjustable cam gear.  Any thoughts out there?  Would it be worth while to get one anyway just in case I end up needing one and if not just leaving it in the stock location?  Or just run with the stock gear?  Thanks for the input.

[chapin]

Nice project! Keep up the good work .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Not much going on while I've been waiting for my new head from 22re performance.  But I did find a few min. to paint my timing cover.

[94Runna]

this build is 



I'm just shooting ya man, this build is 
maybe one day I can pull enough patience and money together, to build a rig as clean and detailed as this one.

Great work brother, looking forward to more updates 

[RATCATCHER38]

I'm keen to see the finished product of your build. I bet you are too! Haha. The engine rebuilt is looking great. Once that's in you'll be laughing.

[THK Matt]

Holy crap dude.. flawless!

[Gnarly4X]

...I ordered a new head from 22re performance...

What camshaft are you going to install?

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

Another question for everyone.  I'm about ready to slap some more parts back on the engine and I started to think about the need for an adjustable cam gear.  Doing some quick research it looks like you need to think about using an adjustable cam gear if you have milled .010" or more off the block/head.  When they machined my block they only took .005" off and I ordered a new head from 22re performance (still waiting for it arrive) so I think I'm in the clear for needing an adjustable cam gear.  Any thoughts out there?  Would it be worth while to get one anyway just in case I end up needing one and if not just leaving it in the stock location?  Or just run with the stock gear?  Thanks for the input.

IF, what has been said is the change in cam timing when decreasing the distance between the center of the camshaft and the center of the crankshaft, due to chain slack in a 22 timing chain, is correct, which is 1 degree retard for every .010" off the stock deck on a block.... your .005" off the block should equal about 1/2 degree retard in cam timing, right?

I'd be surprised that your butt dyno would even feel that change, and if it did, you'd feel a slight increase in torque and HP.

I think an adjustable cam gear is a useful tool to experiment with on 22R - depending upon the cam profile - or correct larger changes in deck height, but on a 22RE, slight cam timing changes (advance/retard) may not be as noticeable.

Adjustable cam gears and cam timing change (advancing) when living in higher elevations can also be a handy test tool.

That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.

Gnarls.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

What camshaft are you going to install?

Gnarls.

The head comes with 22re performance stage 2 cam.  I don't have the specs on it yet but it is designed to work with their head on non turbo engines.  Should be a mild upgrade over stock.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Still waiting on the head to ship from 22re performance so I cleaned and painted up the gas tank and oil pan





I also found some time to apply the Eastwood internal frame coating.  That stuff is a bit messy to apply but looks like it will work pretty good.  Still have some more heavy duty anti rust stuff from eastwood that I'm also thinking about shooting into the frame rails once the frame coating is dry.  Hopefully my frame will be pretty well protected from any further rusting. 

[Gnarly4X]

Still waiting on the head to ship from 22re performance so I cleaned and painted up the gas tank and oil pan

I also found some time to apply the Eastwood internal frame coating.  That stuff is a bit messy to apply but looks like it will work pretty good.  Still have some more heavy duty anti rust stuff from eastwood that I'm also thinking about shooting into the frame rails once the frame coating is dry.  Hopefully my frame will be pretty well protected from any further rusting. 

THOSE are WAAAAAY too pretty for a gas tank and an oil pan!!!!!!!!!!!! 

Please don't tell me you are going take this truck out on the trail and thrash and bash it!!!!!!

Gnarls.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

THOSE are WAAAAAY too pretty for a gas tank and an oil pan!!!!!!!!!!!! 

Please don't tell me you are going take this truck out on the trail and thrash and bash it!!!!!!

Gnarls.

The long term plans for the truck is to turn it into a family camping rig to take us up into the mountains.  So most likely it will get some bashing on it but I'm not planning to turn it into a raisin.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

started to install the timing chain and cover along with the rear main seal so I can get the oil pan installed before my new head eventually arrives.  In the past I have applied a small layer of RTV on the timing cover gaskets without issue but I wanted to see what everyone thinks is the best method.  Should I installed the gaskets (both timing cover and rear main housing) with a light coat of ultra grey RTV applied to them or install them dry?  I'm leaning towards dry as this is how the FSM shows it.

[fireitup]

I coated my timing chain cover gaskets in permatex hi-tack. Black RTV on top and bottom surfaces. Rear main housing I did dry but if I had hi-tack is have used it there as well...

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Still waiting on the head to ship from 22reperformance.  Its been about 8 weeks so hopefully it ships soon and is worth the wait (Not like the trucks gonna be up and running the second I get it installed but I still hate waiting)  I did manage to find the time to button up the bottom end however. 

I clearanced a couple of spots on the crank scraper a touch and got it installed along with the oil pickup tube.


I also picked up some slightly longer bolts for the oil pan due to the crank scraper and got that all bolted up.


I flipped her over and installed the ARP head studs so now I'm really just waiting of the head to arrive so I can finish the motor.  In the mean time I'm planning to clean and paint the valve cover, intake manifold and other brackets and what not while I continue to wait...

[THK Matt]

very thurough, i love these builds

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

The new cylinder head has shipped and should be at my door step later this week

In the mean time I got the valve cover cleaned and painted up.  I also clearanced the ribs near the front of the cover to clear the ARP studs.

I went with Summit Racings black krinkle paint and really liked how it turned out.  Seems pretty durable and I'm thinking about using it on the other various brackets on the engine.


I also mocked the gas tank into place on the mounts I built at the rear of the truck.  I also scuffed up of bottom half of the tank and painted a couple layers of rustoleum's truck bed liner to help protect it from rocks and what not.  The truck bed liner went on pretty nicely and seems reasonably durable for rattle can stuff.



I like this location but realized I should have built the mounts at a slight angle so the tank sits a bit more level, but a little late for that now.  Any one see any issues with the tank being at a slight angle? 

If I end up leaving the tank in this location I'll plan to cut out part of the bed and build an enclosure around it that will allow me easy access to the top of the tank.

[Gnarly4X]

started to install the timing chain and cover along with the rear main seal so I can get the oil pan installed before my new head eventually arrives.  In the past I have applied a small layer of RTV on the timing cover gaskets without issue but I wanted to see what everyone thinks is the best method.  Should I installed the gaskets (both timing cover and rear main housing) with a light coat of ultra grey RTV applied to them or install them dry?  I'm leaning towards dry as this is how the FSM shows it.

This was my first complete rebuild for my 22RE, so I don't have much experience with this engine.

I used Permatex UltraBlack, very thin coat on both sides of gasket and rear main.  I let it get a little tacky before attempting to install it.

I didn't like the Permatex High Tack, it seems to lack some adhesion compared to the Ultra Gray or Black.

I don't feel going "dry" is any better than applying a thin layer of Ultra Black or Gray for these gaskets.

Nice work, as always!

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

... In the mean time I got the valve cover cleaned and painted up.  ... I went with Summit Racings black krinkle paint and really liked how it turned out.  Seems pretty durable and I'm thinking about using it on the other various brackets on the engine.

Bling is always a matter of personal preference.

My choice for paint and color on my engine components would be different if I did it again.  I would stay with smooth finishes for easy of cleaning.  I would go with lighter colors to be able to see potential fluid leaks, oil, or grease.  Krinkle paint has always been a bear to clean for me and easy touch up is almost impossible.

For example, I would paint my engine block a light gray or blue - not black, probably Dupli-Color or VHT.  By the way, for me, spending the extra money on Eastwood type engine paint is nice, but I like to be able to easily touch up the parts like the rocker cover just from a rattle can that's not $25.00+.... I was way over my projected budget, so I was trying to be frugal for items not "performance" related.

Gnarls.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Well the wait is over and my new cylinder head has finally arrived along with the new rock arm assembly and new OEM head gasket.

The head is 22re Performance stage 2 with a bunch of goodies and port work:

New cylinder head casting (resurfaced to the proper RA)
Harder powdered metal exhaust seats installed
Intake and exhaust ports hand machined and blended at valve side
Reground performance camshaft from OE cores (our design, matched to your year/fuel system)
45.5mm (1mm oversize) stainless steel swirl polished intake valves
37.5mm (1mm oversize) stainless steel swirl polished exhaust valves
75lb. valve springs (custom made just for us, specifically to our specs)
chromoly valve spring retainers, new machined keepers (custom made just for us, to our specs)
5-angle intake valve seat cut (our custom profile using our Serdi 3.0)
Fully radiused exhaust valve seat cut (our custom profile, using our Serdi 3.0)
Metal clad OE valve stem seals




When I ordered the head I also ordered their rocker arm assembly with the increased oil capacity rocker shafts.

 
I didn't realize how bad my old rocker arms were worn down until I compared them to the new ones.  Not much of the pad left and there was ware all the way into the rocker arm itself.


Finally I also picked up a new OEM toyota head gasket.


Now that the parts are here I just need to find some garage time to get all the shiny bits back together.

[THK Matt]

How does that head compare to an engbldr head?

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

How does that head compare to an engbldr head?

I would say its a higher quality head than from engbldr but that is only going by what I've read online as I have never installed an engbldr head before.  22re performance has a pretty good reputation and every time I've talked with them they have been excellent to deal with.  I did have to wait over 2 months to receive it so if time was an issue I'd think about going else where.
Over all I think either option will get you a pretty decent head.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Got the new cylinder head and rocker arm assembly installed over the weekend.  Lubed up the ARP studs and installed them as per their instructions to 90 ft-lbs in 4 total passes.  Also applied a liberal amount of the Joe Gibbs assembly lube that came with the head to the cam and rocker arms.



I have seen some issues researching online with the rockers not lining up perfectly with the cam lobes.  I don't seem to have any issue here as mine line up nicely. 



I'm gonna try and button up the top end soon and then move the engine onto the frame so I can clear up some space in my garage.  The truck just might start to look a little bit like a truck again before much longer.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Just a minor update for the moment.  Got the solid engine mounts from 4x innovations installed along with sliding the timing chain sprocket onto the cam. 







 

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Little update.  I got antsy and threw the engine up on the frame to finish assembly there.   I wanted to get my other spare engine on the stand so I could clear out some space in the garage as well as pull a couple of parts of it more easily.  Found out that my original engine was missing both engine/trany braces so I pulled those off the spare and started cleaning them up.



Also had to flip the new engine mount to frame bolts and clearance the nut a tad to clear the welds on the 4x innovations mounts. 



Plan forward now is to keep cleaning up some odds and ends on the motor and start getting the clutch/fly wheel installed so I can bolt up the trany and trans case soon.

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

small update.  Picked up a new Aisin water pump along with some OEM spark plugs. 



I ordered the parts from 209Yota1.com which I had never ordered from before.  Everything got to my house quickly so I'm pleased with them.  Also, picked up a go fast oil cap from them as well. 



Got the engine to trany braces cleaned up off the parts engine and painted so those are waiting to get installed on the new engine.  Other wise its just some cleaning and painting of various brackets and what not for right now. 

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

Another minor update...

I got TDC dialed in with the Mr Gasket dial indicator and a piston stop.  It was my first time using this setup and it was pretty straight forward but I did have to give it a few attempts before it was perfect.  I'm planning to do an initial valve adjustment and dial in the cam here soon.



I also had a few min. to install the new dip stick (I mangled the old one up pretty good getting it out prior to sending the block off to the machine shop).

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

I've been looking at a few more parts and what not and I've got a couple of questions for everyone. 

The first is on the fly wheel.  I was looking at LCs 35lbs flywheel and wondering what people think of running the heavier one.  I'm planning to run 37s on the truck and it seems like it would be a good idea.  The truck was never very fast to begin with and I don't mind if she is a little slow out of the gate. 

My second question is on the power steering pump.  My factory pump was leaking a bit when I pulled it off and I have been looking at possibly getting a TC style pump from PSC as a replacement.  As of right now I'm not planning to run hydro assist but I have a feeling it will be in the future.  Therefore I'm thinking about getting it partially ready (tapped and plugged steering box and new pump), but I want to know if the TC style pump will work with the standard factory setup or is it too much pump?

[Toy_Yoda [OP]]

This post is mostly for my reference in case I forget.

22re performance stage 2 head for non turbo EFI.

Cold:
Intake - .007"
Exhaust - .010"

Intake Center line: 105