Author Topic: Knuckle Stud Replacement, Hy-Steer, Help Please (Read 3286 times)

jssgbsn · « **on:** Jun 25, 2014, 09:40:51 AM »

So I have a set or ARP Knuckle Studs.

After removing the nuts off the studs the Hy-Steer Arm will move upwards but at some point cannot be moved all the way off.

Do I have to remove the entire knuckle in order to get the Hy-Steer Arm off?

Do I have to seperate the tie rod from the Hy-Steer Arm if I am not removing the entire knuckle?

It looks like the FSM says I need an SST in order to press out the bearings

I thought this was gonna be a little more straight forward than it's turning out. I been searching for a 'step-by-step' or 'how to' for replacing the knuckle studs but I cant find one. Guessing some stuff I don;t know is common knowledge for most folks.

Any help would be awesome. It's my DD so I gotta get this done ASAP.

Thanks in advance

mudmaster · « **Reply #1 on:** Jun 25, 2014, 09:46:23 AM »

Did you also take the cone washers off?

jssgbsn · « **Reply #2 on:** Jun 25, 2014, 09:57:33 AM »

Yes. The nuts, washer and cone washer. Here are pics of the highest I can get it. And the pic of the top of the arm.

toyodaaddict · « **Reply #3 on:** Jun 25, 2014, 10:01:19 AM »

try working the arm off with a rubber mallet or light taps with a hammer. If it still wont go remove the tie rod an drag link from the arms an try again. when you reassemble you can lightly sand the pins to help thing s go smoother next time around

jssgbsn · « **Reply #4 on:** Jun 25, 2014, 10:06:34 AM »

That's good news!

Was hoping I didnt have to take out the axle and remove the knuckle.

Cant tap it up any further. Will remove tie rod and try again.

ryantowry_81 · « **Reply #5 on:** Jun 25, 2014, 10:16:15 AM »

mine did the same last time i took it off because one stud broke and the other two loosened allowing the studs to bend slightly so the arm would not come off easy. I just pryed it off working it side to side. make sure to check the threaded holes in the knuckle are still good, mine were ovaled out.

TheChewMaster · « **Reply #6 on:** Jun 25, 2014, 10:51:12 AM »

its probably just the tension on the triunion bearing and the TRE. I would remove the TRE and push the knuckle towards the vehicle and I would expect it to slide out with some convincing of course

jssgbsn · « **Reply #7 on:** Jun 25, 2014, 11:56:56 AM »

I need to go buy a socket for the castle nuts on the tierod end.

Largest I got are 1", 22mm and 32mm.

Does anybody know what size the castle but should be?

ryantowry_81 · « **Reply #8 on:** Jun 25, 2014, 12:18:56 PM »

large cresent wrench, just keep it tight on the nut. I have done it this way many times, it is alot harder to round off one of those larger sizes than the normal sized nuts

mudmaster · « **Reply #9 on:** Jun 25, 2014, 01:26:31 PM »

What everyone else has said. Take the TRE off and it should come off, may need a little persuasion.

TheChewMaster · « **Reply #10 on:** Jun 25, 2014, 06:50:21 PM »

Quote from: jssgbsn on Jun 25, 2014, 11:56:56 AM

I need to go buy a socket for the castle nuts on the tierod end.

Largest I got are 1", 22mm and 32mm.

Does anybody know what size the castle but should be?

I have some older MC ones that are 19mm (which you should definately have if you are working on a Toyota) and I think the newer one is a 23mm, can't find the 23mm socket, but the 24 is just a bit too big. and you have a 22

junya92toy · « **Reply #11 on:** Jun 26, 2014, 12:18:59 AM »

Double nut it and back them out

jssgbsn · « **Reply #12 on:** Jun 26, 2014, 05:10:38 PM »

Borrowed a caliper.

Its' giving me 1 1/16" - 1 1/8" which turns out to be 26.99mm - 28.58mm.

So it's prob gonna be the 1 1/16 Standard or the 27mm. But we'll see. Gotta love the aftermarket inconsistency

jssgbsn · « **Reply #13 on:** Jun 29, 2014, 09:55:09 AM »

Everything came off just fine after removing tie rod ends.

But now I have a broken extractor inside the busted knuckle stud.

Best solutions I have heard of is a Dremel with a tungsten carbide burr or something called the 'original rescue bit'.

Hopefully after getting all the broken studs out the threads aren't total crap

Any other advice besides EDM?

tgmaul88 · « **Reply #14 on:** Jun 29, 2014, 10:18:38 AM »

buy my spare knuckle for sale, only thing is its for the pass side

jssgbsn · « **Reply #15 on:** Jun 29, 2014, 02:12:00 PM »

Mine is the driver side, lol

jssgbsn · « **Reply #16 on:** Jun 30, 2014, 02:47:55 PM »

I might end up needing to replace the steering knuckle.

Are my only purchase options OEM and TrailGear? I googled around TG is what mostly comes up when I am searching to make a purchase.

I don't think I need a 6-Stud Knuckle/Arm, but I am open to it if I end up needing to replace anyway.

Any advice?

OOPS · « **Reply #17 on:** Jun 30, 2014, 05:41:12 PM »

Where are you located? I have some spare stock ones.

jssgbsn · « **Reply #18 on:** Jun 30, 2014, 07:10:30 PM »

Pensacola, FL

Still not positive I will need to replace yet, but I'm trying to be prepared for it now.

If I do need one, it will be drivers side.

junya92toy · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 27, 2014, 11:01:17 PM »

Tig weld a washer to the broken stud then weld a nut to the washer and back it out

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