Author Topic: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt  (Read 3845 times)

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jssgbsn

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Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« on: May 22, 2014, 10:12:50 AM »
I found what I thought was a loose bolt on the drivers side steering arm.  When I was trying to see how tight/loose it was i pulled it out with my hand.

How dangerous is it to drive (street)  around with it off? 

Here are the pics.
If I don't ask the stupid question, who will?

85 Runner, 22RE, AEM 'warm intake', TRD Cam, LC Headers, Dual Case, 5.29's, ARB Front Locker, Detroit Rear Locker, 35's, V6 Brakes, ARP Studs, Marlin Arms/Caps/Hy-Steer, Winch, Armor, Can-Back Top....and...

...more Gremlins than Gizmo the Mogwai was responsible for.

jssgbsn [OP]

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2014, 10:18:51 AM »
I guess its a post not a bolt.

The one I am pointing at has similar symptoms.

When turning (loose/tight) the post spins with the bolt.  All the others seem good.
If I don't ask the stupid question, who will?

85 Runner, 22RE, AEM 'warm intake', TRD Cam, LC Headers, Dual Case, 5.29's, ARB Front Locker, Detroit Rear Locker, 35's, V6 Brakes, ARP Studs, Marlin Arms/Caps/Hy-Steer, Winch, Armor, Can-Back Top....and...

...more Gremlins than Gizmo the Mogwai was responsible for.

HogCanyonHopper

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2014, 10:45:20 AM »
you have two broken steering arm studs. I would not be driving that truck till you remove the broken studs and replace them.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=88478.0
Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

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ryantowry_81

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2014, 10:52:25 AM »
X2

At speed if those other two let go it will spell bad news.

toyodaaddict

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2014, 10:56:02 AM »
 :yikes:x3, dont play around with steering.
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

jssgbsn [OP]

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2014, 11:59:12 AM »
that's what i figured :(

who knows how long it's been like this.

Should I just go ahead and replace all eight, or just the two that are sheered? 
If I don't ask the stupid question, who will?

85 Runner, 22RE, AEM 'warm intake', TRD Cam, LC Headers, Dual Case, 5.29's, ARB Front Locker, Detroit Rear Locker, 35's, V6 Brakes, ARP Studs, Marlin Arms/Caps/Hy-Steer, Winch, Armor, Can-Back Top....and...

...more Gremlins than Gizmo the Mogwai was responsible for.

HogCanyonHopper

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2014, 12:04:23 PM »
I would replace them all. more than likely, other studs will break after you get those done  :thumbdown:  you could get away with just replacing the broken ones though. better to do em all. and you could use some arp studs

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Front-Range-ARP-Toyota-Knuckle-Studs-p-30085.html
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=88478.0
Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

My friend is goin to moan this weekend - RockcrawlinJK

jssgbsn [OP]

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #7 on: May 22, 2014, 12:16:49 PM »
And I can reuse my cone washers and flat washers, right?

At least after shipping it is only about $100.

Too bad Marlin is out of the stud kits right now :(

If I don't ask the stupid question, who will?

85 Runner, 22RE, AEM 'warm intake', TRD Cam, LC Headers, Dual Case, 5.29's, ARB Front Locker, Detroit Rear Locker, 35's, V6 Brakes, ARP Studs, Marlin Arms/Caps/Hy-Steer, Winch, Armor, Can-Back Top....and...

...more Gremlins than Gizmo the Mogwai was responsible for.

HogCanyonHopper

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #8 on: May 22, 2014, 12:25:26 PM »
if you're going to replace all your studs you may as well use all new hardware.  :twocents:
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=88478.0
Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

My friend is goin to moan this weekend - RockcrawlinJK

Dingman.

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #9 on: May 22, 2014, 12:30:42 PM »
I had arp studs and reused everythig else :dunno:   Doesnt the arp studs from frontrange come with new nuts/washers?

jssgbsn [OP]

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #10 on: May 22, 2014, 12:36:03 PM »
The link to 'polyperformance' only shows studs and nuts in the picture.
If I don't ask the stupid question, who will?

85 Runner, 22RE, AEM 'warm intake', TRD Cam, LC Headers, Dual Case, 5.29's, ARB Front Locker, Detroit Rear Locker, 35's, V6 Brakes, ARP Studs, Marlin Arms/Caps/Hy-Steer, Winch, Armor, Can-Back Top....and...

...more Gremlins than Gizmo the Mogwai was responsible for.

mudmaster

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #11 on: May 22, 2014, 12:49:46 PM »
The kits come with new studs and nuts. You reuse your cone washers.

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=44
Time to go wheelin!

toyodaaddict

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #12 on: May 22, 2014, 01:00:40 PM »
when I got my arp studs I used new factory nuts, the ones marlin sells. The nuts that come from front range are lock nuts and I heard they can tear up the threads when u take them off.
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

mudmaster

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #13 on: May 22, 2014, 01:28:50 PM »
The nuts that come from front range are lock nuts and I heard they can tear up the threads when u take them off.

I haven't had an issue with this.

Time to go wheelin!

jssgbsn [OP]

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #14 on: May 24, 2014, 01:15:23 PM »
I noticed the (*edit: 'Trail Gear' ARP Knuckle Studs have a hex head.  The Front Range ones do not.

How do you torque them down? Is it with an SST?  I've never installed studs of any kind.  I'm havig a hard time picturing how you would do it with out a hex head, Allen head, etc.

Is there a torque wrench socket/attachment I have never heard of before (wouldn't be the first time I haven't heard of somethig).

Hope everybody is out having a good Memorial Weekend!!
If I don't ask the stupid question, who will?

85 Runner, 22RE, AEM 'warm intake', TRD Cam, LC Headers, Dual Case, 5.29's, ARB Front Locker, Detroit Rear Locker, 35's, V6 Brakes, ARP Studs, Marlin Arms/Caps/Hy-Steer, Winch, Armor, Can-Back Top....and...

...more Gremlins than Gizmo the Mogwai was responsible for.

toyodaaddict

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #15 on: May 24, 2014, 01:58:13 PM »
I noticed the (*edit: 'Trail Gear' ARP Knuckle Studs have a hex head.  The Front Range ones do not.

How do you torque them down? Is it with an SST?  I've never installed studs of any kind.  I'm havig a hard time picturing how you would do it with out a hex head, Allen head, etc.

Is there a torque wrench socket/attachment I have never heard of before (wouldn't be the first time I haven't heard of somethig).

Hope everybody is out having a good Memorial Weekend!!

double nut em.
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

jssgbsn [OP]

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #16 on: May 24, 2014, 02:13:55 PM »
I lied a little I guess.  I thought that might work.  I've just never used a torque wrench that way.

Thanks for hooking me up with some good intel.
If I don't ask the stupid question, who will?

85 Runner, 22RE, AEM 'warm intake', TRD Cam, LC Headers, Dual Case, 5.29's, ARB Front Locker, Detroit Rear Locker, 35's, V6 Brakes, ARP Studs, Marlin Arms/Caps/Hy-Steer, Winch, Armor, Can-Back Top....and...

...more Gremlins than Gizmo the Mogwai was responsible for.

toyodaaddict

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #17 on: May 24, 2014, 06:29:56 PM »
I dont recall, is there a torque spec on the stud into the knuckle? I always just snug em in (probably no more than 15-20 lbs) and use red loc tight. I torque the nuts to 100 lbs when using arp's.
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
     https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0

jssgbsn [OP]

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #18 on: May 25, 2014, 04:37:49 AM »
We recommend using Locktight on the lower threads when installing knuckle studs. (Available at Low Range Off Road) Studs should be tightened to 20-25 ft-lbs in the knuckles. Stud nuts should be tightened to 80 - 100 ft-lbs.
If I don't ask the stupid question, who will?

85 Runner, 22RE, AEM 'warm intake', TRD Cam, LC Headers, Dual Case, 5.29's, ARB Front Locker, Detroit Rear Locker, 35's, V6 Brakes, ARP Studs, Marlin Arms/Caps/Hy-Steer, Winch, Armor, Can-Back Top....and...

...more Gremlins than Gizmo the Mogwai was responsible for.

TheChewMaster

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #19 on: May 26, 2014, 10:33:56 AM »
Torque specs are not super precise when installed into the knuckle. Out knuckles are 30 years old so many of the threads are wearing out. So just make sure they are in securely, numbers don't really matter

jbtvt

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Re: Hy-Steer Arm, Snapped Bolt
« Reply #20 on: May 26, 2014, 12:33:04 PM »
Anyone know the specs on the Front Range studs? The ARP 2000 series claims 220,000 PSI tensile strength but Front Range doesn't have any PSI ratings or class/grade info that I've found. The nuts are class 10 it does say, but nothing on studs.

I saw on their site that the knuckle studs are the same material as the hub studs which are," ...very high grade chromoly, hardened, and feature rolled threads for optimal strength". Sounds great, but realistically how does anyone know how the bang:buck stacks up to the ARP 2000 version for only $15 more, or stock studs for much cheaper, without any specs?

On the subject of TG - FROR comparison, did TG get the threading right on their knuckle studs? I read they were backwards on the hub studs.

 
 
 
 
 

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